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Lc gtr amp gauge idiot light not working


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#1 evl666

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Posted 11 March 2019 - 04:09 PM

Tell me why the idiot light on my lc gtr isn’t working. When I switch the key onto the on position I get nothing at the globe. When the car is running the gauge shows just bellow 15 amps but I haven’t thrown a multi meter on there yet to check everything. I’d still assume regardless of what happens when running the light should still come on when the key is in the on position. Is it true if the light doesn’t work the car won’t charge? It’s a new loom and everything else has worked perfectly from the get go. And yes the globe is 3w and working properly. Any ideas wold be most welcome

#2 Dr Terry

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Posted 11 March 2019 - 06:41 PM

Do you have an alternator which has an external regulator mounted on the LH inner guard (as per original) or do you have a later version which has in internal reg ?

 

If you have the later style unplug the brown wire from the rear of the alternator, switch the ignition on & short the brown terminal to earth. The red light should light up. If it does light up, you have a problem with the alternator. If it does not light up, your problem is with the globe or dash wiring.

 

If you have the external reg set-up, unplug both the reg & the alternator & short the brown wire to earth & the above will apply. If the light does light up, your problem could be either alt or reg. 

 

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#3 evl666

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Posted 11 March 2019 - 07:52 PM

Thanks Dr Terry.....I have the original external type so I unplug the reg completely then pull the brown wire off the alt and short that. I’ll come back if I have any more questions when I get a chance to check later on during the week. I’m going to assume my dash wiring is good as it’s a new loom.

Edited by evl666, 11 March 2019 - 07:56 PM.


#4 claysummers

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Posted 11 March 2019 - 10:15 PM

Ass you me. How hard can it be to test the dash circuit.


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#5 evl666

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Posted 16 March 2019 - 03:53 PM

So I tested it today and yes once you earth the brown wire and switch the ignition on the idiot light comes on so it’s either the alternator or regulator. Check the battery at idle and it’s 12.37 volts.....so that tells me the alternator isn’t charging

Edited by evl666, 16 March 2019 - 03:58 PM.


#6 Rockoz

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Posted 17 March 2019 - 06:51 AM

The brown wire needs to be plugged in to the alternator.

Make sure it is and get back to us.

You should be able to work out which terminal it needs to go on by the plug on the regulator.

It wont hurt anything if you get the wrong terminal on the alternator though.



Ass you me. How hard can it be to test the dash circuit.


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We arent in the habit of posting usless stuff here.

Leave that for the idiots on the Facebook groups.



#7 evl666

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Posted 17 March 2019 - 09:16 AM

It’s definitely the alternator. I had a spare regulator here and it changed nothing. With the car running and me taking a reading from the back of the alternator post it’s only just producing 12 volts

#8 evl666

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Posted 06 April 2019 - 03:51 PM

Ok guys new issue. I replaced my alt with a rebuilt original 35amp Bosch unit. Light turns off like it should when the car starts, multi meter shows 13.3 at battery when running but for some reason my amp gauge is going all the way up to 30+. Gauge stuffed?

#9 S pack

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Posted 06 April 2019 - 06:53 PM

Battery probably just needs a top up. Take it for a drive, you'll find after a short while the charge rate shown on the gauge will drop. Unless of course you have some high demands on the power supply like a thermo fan operating or a thumping audio system etc.



#10 evl666

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Posted 06 April 2019 - 07:06 PM

It’s a few months away from driving... but you could be on to something about the battery. I’ll have a look at it again once it’s mobile. Just don’t want to fry anything!

#11 VDO

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Posted 07 April 2019 - 10:33 AM

Disconnect both the large wires from the Amp gauge, join them together firmly with a short 3/16 bolt or similar and make sure you tape the join up really well to insulate it from the surrounding bits.

 

Change or modify the AMP gauge to a volts gauge and life will be good again.

 

I've modified heaps of Amp gauges to Volts (including the dial) and most people wouldn't notice it was changed.  It's a common mod, unless you're a stickler for originality.

 

At some stage in the future, if you put in a larger alternator, and your system is drawing more than 30 Amps, the internal shunt on the Amp meter will overload and then there is a risk of fire.



#12 evl666

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Posted 07 April 2019 - 01:06 PM

VDO. Is it a risk to drive it as it is? I’m still not convinced what the problem actually is. There is no real load from added on extras to the charging system other than electronic ignition. It dose dip when I put the head lights on but still up around 25-28 amps. I’ll charge the battery and throw it back in and see what happens with a fully charged battery

#13 VDO

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Posted 07 April 2019 - 01:13 PM

No real risk at the moment, but if you were to add say, thermo fan, big stereo, driving lights and headlights on all at the same time, that might be too much.

 

With what you have now, it's fine, because the alternator is only 35 amp, so the regulator will keep it safe.

 

I was thinking more as to when or if you upgrade the alternator or add lots of stuff.



#14 evl666

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Posted 07 April 2019 - 01:20 PM

All good guys....charged battery after about 1 minute after starting the car the gauge dropped down to about 15+ amps




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