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Anyone running an electric water pump on a Holden 6?


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#1 Com_VC

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Posted 30 April 2019 - 09:01 PM

Was just wondering if anyone is running an electric water pump on a Holden 6 as I am thinking of going that way.  They look to be good value at under $200 for the pump.  You can get controllers too for a bit extra but I'll probably end up using the ecu to control it.  Wouldn't mind seeing a few pics of your setup if you have gone this way.


Also if there are any other options other than the Davies Craig.

 

https://www.ebay.com...j4AAOSwN3Nb8gmW

https://www.ebay.com...&frcectupt=true



#2 warrenm

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Posted 30 April 2019 - 11:54 PM

What reason do you need to use an electric pump?



#3 Com_VC

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Posted 01 May 2019 - 05:53 AM

Only reason is due to space/clearance issues.

I need to relocate the alternator to the other side of the engine and the water outlet on the pump is in the way.

#4 _duggan208_

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Posted 01 May 2019 - 11:43 PM

Yep, I do, if you use the ECU to control it, I think the ECU will only turn it on or off. The Davies Craig computer will either turn the pump on or off, but can control the speed of the pump as well. It can continue the run the pump and fan after you shut the engine down for around 2 minutes, controlling heat soak. You will gain a couple of HP as your crank has less to drive. At any revs the engine has a consistent flow rate of coolant, which is suppose to aid cooling. You will also find your engine warms up very quickly. When you are out cruising out on a country road, the water pump is not doing very much work, I think this is were the computer spins the pump slower. The gains are not huge, but a gain is a gain.

regards 



#5 _2 girls racing_

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Posted 02 May 2019 - 02:43 PM

Just remember when you fit it to remove the thermostat. Otherwise it cant control the flow. We also had to block off the thermostat bypass to the head in the rally car but it’s a different motor and I’m not sure about the red six


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#6 Com_VC

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Posted 02 May 2019 - 05:49 PM

Yeah I don't think the ecu will vary the speed, I might be able to do something so that it has two speeds High and low that varies depending on what the temperature set point is set at.

 

I can't really think of any disadvantages to going with the electric pump besides the mechanical pump being more reliable but this isn't going to be a daily driven vehicle so I can get away with that.

 

Might be a good idea to install a pressure sensor so that I know the pump is working properly.

 

Will probably end up with the larger 150LPM pump, there is not that much difference in cost.

 

duggan208:  Do you have any photos of your setup?



#7 LC-GTR-1969

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Posted 03 May 2019 - 11:31 AM

I run one, they're great, highly recommend (from my experience). 

 

I threw it on because I picked up the EWP cheap (unused second hand) so thought i'd give it a try... In short, once I put it on and removed the mechanical pump, my rpms raised by 200rpm- that surprised me as I though the extra load on the alternator would mediate the drag lossed by tossing the mechanical pump, but alas, it appears that the mechanical pump, even at idle, was a greater drag than the increased drag caused by the alternator by running the EWP. 

 

I can not say if there were any HP gains but I definitely have cooling improvements. I can drive on most days the thermo fans off, and I do not even run a mechanical fan- just airflow alone at cruising speed is enough to help cool things when using the EWP. 

 

If it was a regular daily driven car I would run mechanical, but in any once a month type deal, id invest in an EWP. 



#8 Com_VC

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Posted 05 May 2019 - 11:36 AM

Yeah can't see any negatives, seems they have been using them on some factory built cars for awhile now as well, some BMW's have them.

 

Seeing that I won't be running a thermostat, instead of having the radiator cap on the radiator itself I may be able to have it on top of the thermostat housing.



#9 sr2

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Posted 08 May 2019 - 08:17 PM

Ran a Davies Craig electric pump some tears back on a 2.4 Holbay Cosworth engine in a Tarmac Rally Car (Targa). We made a small O ringed manifold to use the two frost plugs on the side of the block as an inlet and controlled it from an Autronic SM4 ECU.  

Have to say the results were very impressive; cooling was noticeably more consistent between the cylinders  (a known issue with Pinto blocks) and being able to control temps  after a special stage (i.e. leaving it running on shutdown) was a huge improvement.

I’d recommend one without hesitation,  I’m looking at  running one on the Red six in the latest project.



#10 sr2

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Posted 08 May 2019 - 10:20 PM

Edited to say 'some tears back' is the best Freudian slip I've managed in quite a while!



#11 _duggan208_

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Posted 16 May 2019 - 10:10 PM

I've not been able to find any clear pics of what I had earlier on. I just had the pump connected up to a straight piece of water hose just behind the radiator out let and then a flexible water hose up to the original water pump with the impellor removed and kept the original fan belt. I spose you could put the pump anywhere you needed it to go to fit what you want. Just have to adapt a water neck instead of the old water pump for what you want. I had the same idea of monitoring that the pump is working by installing a pressure gauge, but the system is pressurised anyway, so I don't think the gauge really tells me jack shit that the pump is working or isn't working. I guess that if the pressure gauge goes up close to 100, something is wrong, but that could still be several issues causing the pressure rise and not the pump failing. I'm not sure of how you can monitor the pump itself. 

regards



#12 slr5640

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Posted 23 May 2019 - 02:48 PM

couldn't  you run the positive wire through an amp gauge to check if its running ?

or a globe run in series not parallel ?

i'm thinking if the pump fails the circuit would be broken and globe would go out ..same with amp gauge the gauge should show current flow if running

I'm going to put one on a 308 soon and will give this a go .

 

https://www.allabout...allel-circuits/



#13 neglectedtorana

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Posted 23 May 2019 - 07:41 PM

Some marine cooling systems and fuel systems use flow meters

Might be worth a Google, I tried 'inline liquid flow meter'

The turbine type on this site we use for fuel counting, I think there will be one with an output you can connect to a gauge

https://www.besflowmeters.com.au

#14 LC-GTR-1969

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Posted 15 June 2019 - 05:10 AM

I used an aussispeed blanking plate and then bought an elbow adapter from Davis Craig- its quite easy... although I did need to trim the timing marks pointer on the front cover as so I could run the fan belt straight to the alternator. Works great. 



#15 Rockoz

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Posted 15 June 2019 - 01:06 PM

Ran a Davies Craig electric pump some tears back on a 2.4 Holbay Cosworth engine in a Tarmac Rally Car (Targa). We made a small O ringed manifold to use the two frost plugs on the side of the block as an inlet and controlled it from an Autronic SM4 ECU.  

Have to say the results were very impressive; cooling was noticeably more consistent between the cylinders  (a known issue with Pinto blocks) and being able to control temps  after a special stage (i.e. leaving it running on shutdown) was a huge improvement.

I’d recommend one without hesitation,  I’m looking at  running one on the Red six in the latest project.

 

 

Frost plugs?

Havent heard that misnomer before for welch plugs.

 

They have nothing to do with the block freezing or any of those types of stories.

 

Cheers

 

Rob



#16 Bigfella237

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Posted 15 June 2019 - 03:02 PM

Surprised you haven't heard that one before, Rob?

 

"Frost Plugs" is real old school... apparently they were called that back in the day because as water freezes it expands, and the idea was that these plugs would be pushed out of the block before the casting cracked... or so the story goes anyway?

 

It never did sound plausible to me because coolant passages aren't sealed, surely any pressure buildup would be transferred to the various rubber hoses?

 

Not sure where the name "Welsh Plugs" ever came from either but the technical name for them is actually "Core Plugs", and the only real reason that they're there is to allow the sand core to be removed from the block casting.

 

Although I do like the idea of using them to route coolant into the lower block, I reckon it would make a great talking point at car shows to have nothing but a blank plate on the front of an engine!



#17 Dr Terry

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Posted 17 June 2019 - 01:06 PM

AFAIK "Welch Plugs" (NOT WELSH PLUGS) are the name of the slightly domed variety, which expand when hit in the centre. From memory they were designed/patented by a guy named Mr Welch.

 

The deep cup type, normally used in Holdens are the more common type of modern core plugs.

 

The terms freeze plug & frost plug are yankee slang.

 

Dr Terry



#18 Com_VC

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Posted 25 June 2019 - 05:36 PM

I'll be going ahead and purchasing the Davies Craig 8160 EWP150 within the next few days, just going to purchase the pump on it's on without controller or accessories. I cannot really see any negatives to them so figure why not give one a try :)



#19 LC-GTR-1969

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Posted 26 June 2019 - 06:58 AM

I'll be going ahead and purchasing the Davies Craig 8160 EWP150 within the next few days, just going to purchase the pump on it's on without controller or accessories. I cannot really see any negatives to them so figure why not give one a try :)

 

That's a pretty big pump mate- can't see it hurting going bigger but just for your reference, I am running the 80 litre unit (EWP80) and it works beautifully on a holden 6, all things being equal (3 core radiator and twin thermos). 

 

I run this pump on my JZED headed, 12:1 compression engine. 

 

However, I did need a few fittings to adapt the sizes to suit the lower radiator hose, so I would consider the EWP115 in alloy, you will need to check, but if I remember right, the inlet and outlet sizing of the 115 is just right for the lower rad hose. 


Edited by LC-GTR-1969, 26 June 2019 - 07:00 AM.


#20 Shiney005

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Posted 26 June 2019 - 08:35 AM

I would recommend you go alloy. I had a nylon Davies Craig pump on an old 4wd on the farm and after about 18 months one of the bushes that the impeller runs in fell to bits. 



#21 LC-GTR-1969

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Posted 26 June 2019 - 10:02 AM

I would recommend you go alloy. I had a nylon Davies Craig pump on an old 4wd on the farm and after about 18 months one of the bushes that the impeller runs in fell to bits. 

 

I've had my nylon on the Torana for about 18 months and no problems so far, however the alloy is only a smidge cheaper so its a no brainer, looks better and I would have to say it would likely last longer. I only used nylon as I picked it up unused but second hand, and for a great price...



#22 Shiney005

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Posted 26 June 2019 - 01:59 PM

Mine was put on an old motor, and it may have had some scale or something in the water. I never did an autopsy to find out.



#23 Com_VC

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Posted 26 June 2019 - 06:36 PM

I can get the EWP130 or EWP150 for the same price.  The EWP130 uses flanges for the inlets and outlets and the EWP150 uses threaded fittings. hmm decisions  decisions.



#24 LC-GTR-1969

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Posted 28 June 2019 - 04:20 PM

I can get the EWP130 or EWP150 for the same price.  The EWP130 uses flanges for the inlets and outlets and the EWP150 uses threaded fittings. hmm decisions  decisions.

 

Are you planning on using the controller with it? If not, I'd strongly suggest those pumps are too big and will draw unnecessary current as well as push the coolant too quickly through the radiator. The digital controller pulses the pump so if this is used it would not matter if going too big, but if you plan on running the pump full time with a restrictor plate or with a thermostat, those pumps are too big.

 

My EWP80 can keep my 350hp JZED headed engine cool at 170-180f on most days without using ANY fan, no thermos needed. They are extremely efficient. 



#25 Com_VC

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Posted 28 June 2019 - 04:39 PM

Not planning on using the Davies Craig Controller but do plan to use the ecu to control it.  I think that I will go for the EWP150 seeing it says it rated for heavy duty applications.  Will be used on a turbocharged engine.






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