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Engine Crane Modification

Lifter

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#1 sibhs

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Posted 27 July 2019 - 10:24 PM

I've had this Engine Lifter for 15 years and every time I use it on a small lowish car it's a pain in the arse.  The problem is the front bars sit to high (190mm) and won't fit under the car suspension so all sorts of mucking about is done to get an engine out.

So!  Has anybody modified their lifter to make them work easier on our Toranas?

 

I'm going to try get smaller front wheels and cut the front legs so they drop down to a lower size then chop the legs so they're thinner at the front.  Before doing this I'd like to learn from others first.

 

Cheers

 

Marty

 

Attached File  IMG_8315.jpg   291.39K   6 downloads



#2 dattoman

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Posted 28 July 2019 - 11:59 AM

Engine goes in the other end of the car buddy

 

I've seen a few with mods... first one that springs to mind is straight legs... those wide legs always seem to hit on things

Can't say I've seen any lowered ones... good idea though



#3 Potta

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Posted 28 July 2019 - 12:06 PM

Yeah I had similar issues putting an engine in the back of my ute.

 

Had to put it back further than I would have liked because the legs wouldn't go under.

 

You'd have to be pretty careful modifying one though, last thing you want is for it to tip over because the legs are too close together and smash the front of the car.

 

You've seen what an engine hitting a nose cone can do Marty, not pretty.



#4 Rockoz

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Posted 28 July 2019 - 12:11 PM

Mate of mine was lifting an engine out of a car.

Looks like he didnt pin the legs in properly and long story short, the whole thing toppled over.

The width of the legs is what helps determine the SWL.

Narrow them up and you seriously affect the stability of it when lifting.

You could possibly use wheels that recess into the legs.

But that would effect any swivel function.

But if they are steel they will slide reasonably well on all but really rough concrete.

My engine stands have fixed wheels at the mount point and swivels on the end.

But the heavy end still slides pretty well on the concrete to move it around.

 

Cheers

 

Rob



#5 claysummers

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Posted 28 July 2019 - 01:21 PM

If you were to stitch some 2” angle under the legs so there is clearence to the floor or else some flat on the sides you could lower the profile at the ends where it hits the suspension. Wouldn’t worry about boxing it as it is the vertical walls that so the work.


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#6 V-SLR5000-P

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Posted 28 July 2019 - 04:27 PM

I have a pair of these low profile ramps which solve the problem

 

https://au.gktech.co...-car-ramps-pair



#7 mugginz

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Posted 28 July 2019 - 06:31 PM

A pair of those ramps are going on the shopping list.

Edited by mugginz, 28 July 2019 - 06:32 PM.


#8 mick_in_oz

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Posted 28 July 2019 - 06:40 PM

Relocate the original casters.

Attached pics are of my home built crane, that was based on a very old shop crane that was around town.

75mm x 10mm flat as a tab to mount the caster, fits under everything.
 

Its hard to believe everyone makes the cranes the same way and everyone has the same complaint, some things never change.....

 

Sorry the pics aren't better, crane is grubby and it was dark.

Attached Files



#9 Rockoz

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Posted 28 July 2019 - 08:23 PM

Yep.

Getting the profile down is a god idea.

However it may make it difficult to move with a load on if the crane bottoms out on irregularities in the surface it is moving on.

 

I found a pic of the mates incident.

Various contributing factors.

 

 

Attached File  ec1.jpg   122.24K   10 downloads

 

 

Cheers

 

Rob  






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