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Cable Clutch - LC LJ V8 conversion


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#1 Lc69

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Posted 02 November 2019 - 08:57 PM

Hi there members,

Im currently fitting a Holden V8 to a LC.
My last post dealt with the starter motor clearance and engine mount mods.
Now I’m fitting the gearbox and have found the next problem.

It’s difficult to tell how far the motor is leaning back because the K-frame is out of the car.
As you can see the clutch cable spigot on the bellhousing is already hitting the K-frame before the gearbox is home.

I plan to use this to show the whole conversion, so any info would be appreciated.
Has anyone done this? Can you share a picture of the clearance I should have once in the car before I go any further?

Cheer in advance for anyone that can help.

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#2 gtrboyy

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Posted 03 November 2019 - 08:58 PM

Won't know for sure without it being in car...bolt it up & roll whole lot under to see if it does.

 

Don't think I've seen cable clutch v8...majority are hydraulic clutch with old dellow kit or nowadays much nicer mal woods set up.

 

Seen a few that used rat trap setup back in early days though.



#3 Lc69

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Posted 04 November 2019 - 07:25 PM

The mal wood clutch was my first option, but I thought a clutch cable might be a more economical solution.
I’m trying to avoid putting it in and taking it back out again.
I thought someone might have a picture or a measurement of any clutch setup etc that might help

#4 gtrboyy

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Posted 07 November 2019 - 02:28 PM

Only cable setup done that I can remember were 6cyl cars....was green lj on forum with efi 202 somewhere.

 

Kind of think lack of clearance to head or extractor is why not seen it done on v8 conversion.



#5 jpxu1

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Posted 14 November 2019 - 11:21 PM

"I’m trying to avoid putting it in and taking it back out again."

 

In which case don't forget the sandwich plate between the block and bellhousing, which isn't installed in your pictures (not going to help your clearance problems though).

 

Good luck

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#6 Lc69

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Posted 14 November 2019 - 11:32 PM

"I’m trying to avoid putting it in and taking it back out again."

In which case don't forget the sandwich plate between the block and bellhousing, which isn't installed in your pictures (not going to help your clearance problems though).

Good luck
JPXU1

There’s a sandwich plate?
The clutch fork seems to be in the right position with the bearing against the pressure plate.
Any pictures or details of what you mean?

Edited by Lc69, 14 November 2019 - 11:33 PM.


#7 VZ1_60

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Posted 15 November 2019 - 09:33 AM

Hi there members,

Im currently fitting a Holden V8 to a LC.
My last post dealt with the starter motor clearance and engine mount mods.
Now I’m fitting the gearbox and have found the next problem.

It’s difficult to tell how far the motor is leaning back because the K-frame is out of the car.
As you can see the clutch cable spigot on the bellhousing is already hitting the K-frame before the gearbox is home.

I plan to use this to show the whole conversion, so any info would be appreciated.
Has anyone done this? Can you share a picture of the clearance I should have once in the car before I go any further?

Cheer in advance for anyone that can help.

Given the cable bellhousing wasn't released until about 10 years after the LC/LJ, I suspect most of the early conversions used either a rat trap cable set up or Dellow type hydraulic conversion. I think you might need to bite the bullet and go with a Mal Wood hydraulic setup - compact & neat.

 

Sandwich plate - the thin metal plate that goes between the bellhousing and engine, you will probably find one on evilbay or gummy

 

cheers, john 



#8 Lc69

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Posted 15 November 2019 - 09:20 PM

I’m working on a bracket to relocate the clutch cable, so we’ll see how it goes.
I’ve confirmed where the engine will sit and that the std setup will have next to no clearance.

I have to be honest, I’ve never seen a sandwich plate fitted to a Holden with an Aussie 4 speed......but you learn something every day.
If you could sent a link it would be great, because I can’t seem to find one.

The Mal Wood setup would be the way to go, but I’d like to see if the cable can be done first.


Given the cable bellhousing wasn't released until about 10 years after the LC/LJ, I suspect most of the early conversions used either a rat trap cable set up or Dellow type hydraulic conversion. I think you might need to bite the bullet and go with a Mal Wood hydraulic setup - compact & neat.

Sandwich plate - the thin metal plate that goes between the bellhousing and engine, you will probably find one on evilbay or gummy

cheers, john


Edited by Lc69, 15 November 2019 - 09:21 PM.


#9 yel327

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Posted 16 November 2019 - 08:38 AM

No such thing as far as I am aware, ie sandwich plate on a V8 engine in a Holden or Torana or Statesman.

 

I think your best bet will be to use a Standard HT- mid HZ 253/308 3spd manual or HQ- mid HZ 253/308 3 or 4spd manual bellhousing. Weld it up to make the pivot point for the pull clutch fork, and open up the slot. Then make a bracket up that bolts to the rat-trap mech holes, and supports the cable. The cable centreline will be closer to the sump but should still work. You could modify the mid HZ - WB V8 manual bellhousing you have, by cutting off the cable support and welding it up to give you enough meat to drill and tap it to mount a similar bracket as described.

 

You may even be able to lop the cable support off, and weld it to another piece of alloy to make up the described bracket.   


Edited by yel327, 16 November 2019 - 08:44 AM.


#10 S pack

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Posted 16 November 2019 - 09:44 AM

I could be wrong however from memory the HZ - WB V8 clutch cable bellhousing is designed the way it is to enable the cable to clear the exhaust manifold & pipe.

Bringing the cable attaching point closer to the bell housing may solve one problem but create another.



#11 yel327

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Posted 16 November 2019 - 11:14 AM

Probably will, but is is the only way it is going to work in this scenario. I’d be using a rat-trap bellhousing with a hydraulic setup.

#12 Lc69

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Posted 16 November 2019 - 12:52 PM

I considered the non cable bellhousing conversion as suggested. CRS make a bracket for hydraulic conversion that would be a similar concept.

I decided to modify the cable bellhousing to the Duce the work associated with moving the pivot.

The new bracket only need to move in a little and should be under the shadow of the steering shaft, so the exhaust should clear.....should......it’s all very tight.

If this does work I still have the other bellhousing ready for a hydraulic option. The external master cylinder would probably be even worse so the mal wood arrangement would certainly be the best option.

#13 claysummers

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Posted 16 November 2019 - 03:52 PM

I've used the crs and dellow adapters on M20 and they work very well. One was cast iron and snapped between the mounting bolts. Hydraulic over rat trap or cable any day.

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#14 Lc69

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Posted 31 May 2020 - 09:07 PM

I’ve now seen a similar setup on another build, and can confirm clearance in this area is a real issue.
I cut the std mount off the bellhousing and made my own bracket.
Hasn’t been in the car yet, but looks promising.
I’m using a 4cyl pedal with a custom bracket on the firewall.

Attached File  37C9C94B-BBA8-4965-BD67-F964B91711AB.jpeg   104.79K   7 downloads

Attached File  47ACDFAD-E4AE-44B6-85B0-67CDF91AF36F.jpeg   96.36K   6 downloads

Edited by Lc69, 31 May 2020 - 09:08 PM.





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