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GMH LX8


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#126 Rockoz

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Posted 24 July 2020 - 11:55 AM

I always believed that you needed to keep braided or any flexible lines to an absolute minimum due to them wanting to straighten themsleves out under pressure, and more likely to balloon a bit, leading to a soft pedal feel.

 

Cheers

 

Rob


Edited by Rockoz, 24 July 2020 - 11:56 AM.


#127 Shtstr

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Posted 24 July 2020 - 03:12 PM

I always believed that you needed to keep braided or any flexible lines to an absolute minimum due to them wanting to straighten themsleves out under pressure, and more likely to balloon a bit, leading to a soft pedal feel.
 
Cheers
 
Rob


Never heard that before but makes sense.

#128 Lima31

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Posted 25 July 2020 - 12:55 PM

I always believed that you needed to keep braided or any flexible lines to an absolute minimum due to them wanting to straighten themsleves out under pressure, and more likely to balloon a bit, leading to a soft pedal feel.

 

Cheers

 

Rob

 

So long as you are not bending the hose more than the manufacturer specification, this is actually not something to worry about, it is relatively low force.  The pressure acts the same in all directions so the circumferential (hoop) stress in the pipe is dominant. 



#129 Rockoz

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Posted 25 July 2020 - 01:07 PM

So long as you are not bending the hose more than the manufacturer specification, this is actually not something to worry about, it is relatively low force.  The pressure acts the same in all directions so the circumferential (hoop) stress in the pipe is dominant. 

Physics says different. Ever tried to move a hose under pressure, then again without pressure?

The equal force actually means that it will attempt to straighten itself. The pressure will try to even out between the inside and outside circumference, thus causing a straightening motion.

 

Cheers

 

Rob



#130 Shtstr

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Posted 29 July 2020 - 11:25 PM

Have decided to just run hard lines. Can't justify the price of the braided ones when I can make the hard line ones myself. Ooh well.may be down the track.

#131 Lima31

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Posted 30 July 2020 - 10:38 AM

Physics says different. Ever tried to move a hose under pressure, then again without pressure?

The equal force actually means that it will attempt to straighten itself. The pressure will try to even out between the inside and outside circumference, thus causing a straightening motion.

 

Cheers

 

Rob

 

Yes it will attempt to straighten itself but as I wrote, it is a relatively low force compared to the hoop stress.   Consider flexible fire hoses, they run around 15 bar mains pressure (~200+ psi), running from appliance to building or a closed nozzle, they sit still when pressurised even though they are definitely bent or looped, plenty of videos out there.  It moves around only when they open the valve and the mass of the water flowing is then a factor.


Edited by Lima31, 30 July 2020 - 10:39 AM.


#132 Rockoz

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Posted 30 July 2020 - 06:27 PM

Ive spent a lot of time running fire hoses and hanging onto the end of them.

There is a minimum circumference that they will sit at provided they arent disturbed.

Brake lines wont have the friction effect of the ground to help them stay in place.

That is what lets them sit on the ground curved. Friction from the ground.

Thats the physics part.

Move them a little and they want to straighten out until friction helps hold them.

 

 

Cheers

 

Rob



#133 Shtstr

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Posted 10 August 2020 - 08:55 PM

I was just going to put them in retainer clips. To stop the rubbing on the paintwork

#134 Shtstr

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Posted 21 August 2020 - 08:03 PM

As everything goes in this build time frame and budget is out the window. Especially when you have to wait for special parts to arrive from overseas.

#135 Shiney005

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Posted 22 August 2020 - 09:39 AM

That is 90% of old car builds. 



#136 Shtstr

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Posted 22 August 2020 - 11:19 PM

Yep. But like everything I do is different to the normal run of the mill stuff.
Worked out how to make a massive 6.3 rod fit in the engine so waiting for the parts to arrive from the usa now.

#137 Shtstr

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Posted 23 August 2020 - 06:26 PM

Made up the ABS and cruise control bracket mount today. Thought I better do something on it.
Haven't done anything for a while.

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#138 Ice

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Posted 23 August 2020 - 10:15 PM

You got more patience than anyone i know Dave
cant wait to see it done

#139 Shiney005

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Posted 24 August 2020 - 10:08 AM

Look after that ABS module. After having owned a few 2000's Commodores, that is the one item that always seems to shit itself and I haven't found anyone who can repair them.



#140 Shtstr

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Posted 24 August 2020 - 09:27 PM

Look after that ABS module. After having owned a few 2000's Commodores, that is the one item that always seems to shit itself and I haven't found anyone who can repair them.

Few people reco them now. Can still buy them from Holden $478 new. I have to get this one done.
They go to sleep with a flat battery in the car apparently so I've found out.

#141 Shtstr

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Posted 15 September 2020 - 07:50 PM

Well had a meeting with the GM of Fulcrum suspension on Thursday last week and very pleased with how it went.
When I'm ready to take the car in it will receive a custom made set of front struts in any brand I want.
In the mean time I've started collecting parts for the engine.
Forged lumpy top pistons comp star con rods holley inlet manifold and fuel rails holley 1000cc throttle body and nice little comp cams cam that was selected to suit the new compression ratio of 12 to 1.
Will hopefully get the exhaust system finally finished this week and get the rear tail shaft made to suit.

#142 Shtstr

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Posted 15 September 2020 - 08:05 PM

New piston and cam feeling.
Forged pistons to suit the 6.3" rods with lumpy top to jump the comp ratio to 12 to 1. Should have a nice crackle.

New piston and cam feeling.
Forged pistons to suit the 6.3" rods with lumpy top to jump the comp ratio to 12 to 1. Should have a nice crackle.

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#143 Shtstr

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Posted 16 September 2020 - 08:26 PM

Had a chat with Hardie Splicer today and they are working out how to make it as it is only 1080mm long and needs to include a slip yoke.

#144 rodomo

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Posted 16 September 2020 - 10:56 PM

There is some sorta formula those joints work by. When I had mine done it was to do with revs and length. I think the shorter it is the better.



#145 Shtstr

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Posted 17 September 2020 - 09:24 AM

There is some sorta formula those joints work by. When I had mine done it was to do with revs and length. I think the shorter it is the better.


Yes shorter and larger diameter is best possible setup. Has to run at around 4 deg sitting still too from memory so when you take off and are under braking it doesn't go past 7 degrees as the uni joins don't like it and run a high chance of breaking.

#146 Shtstr

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Posted 17 September 2020 - 09:29 AM

Well my supper long 6.3" con rods arrived today.
Gives me a rod ratio of 1.74 right in that sweet spot to turn some high rpm and keep it reliable.
Big rod for a ls1🤣🤣

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