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UC ignition wiring
Started by
_ucstephan_
, Jan 27 2020 10:52 AM
3 replies to this topic
#1
_ucstephan_
_ucstephan_
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Posted 27 January 2020 - 10:52 AM
Hi all, I'm in the process of re wiring my UC, the wiring was an absolute birds nest so have started from scratch with a universal 12 circuit wiring loom, I'm in the process of pinning the ignition switch but have come into a drama or 2, I have found a diagram for the switch but I dont know if it's wrong or I'm barking up the wrong tree, I'm trying to figure out which pin to put the coil wire to, if I put it on the terminal marked coil it only gets power on crank, if I put it to the ignition terminal beside it has switched power but not on crank... Any suggestions??
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#2
claysummers
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- Name:Clay
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Posted 27 January 2020 - 11:24 AM
Get a wiring diagram/service manual. Possibly connect to both terminals??
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#3
View GaragePosted 27 January 2020 - 12:04 PM
Holden didn't use ballast resistors for the coil, they used a resistance wire that achieved a similar result. However, during crank the coil received a full 12V (no resistance) connection to counter the voltage drop and ensure good spark. So there would have originally been two wires - a pink one from the ON position and a yellow one from the START position, and these are connected together at the coil end. This trips up a lot of people doing conversions.
If you are running a 9V coil you need to either use a resistance wire and replicate the original loom or install a ballast resistor. If you are running a 12V coil you can simply bridge the two terminals at the ignition switch and run a single wire.
#4
_ucstephan_
_ucstephan_
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Posted 27 January 2020 - 12:07 PM
Thanks for that, my old man and I worked it out about a minute before you replied haha this is the first time I've done any real work with wiring so it's a case of getting my head around how to read a diagram and all that goes with wiring, thanks for your help!Holden didn't use ballast resistors for the coil, they used a resistance wire that achieved a similar result. However, during crank the coil received a full 12V (no resistance) connection to counter the voltage drop and ensure good spark. So there would have originally been two wires - a pink one from the ON position and a yellow one from the START position, and these are connected together at the coil end. This trips up a lot of people doing conversions.
If you are running a 9V coil you need to either use a resistance wire and replicate the original loom or install a ballast resistor. If you are running a 12V coil you can simply bridge the two terminals at the ignition switch and run a single wire.
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