68 replies to this topic

[evl666]

I know this subject has been gone through a thousand times but I thought I’d chew your ears for an answer....
Newly build 202 and yes timing and fuel is correct. Standard gtr radiator with correct fan. New water pump with cast impeller. 80 degree thermostat. The car runs perfect (80-90 degrees) cruising around as well as giving it to her but at the traffic lights it’s a different story. Temp will climb up slowly but won’t stop unless we start driving again (got to about 120) It’s been suggested you me it must be the radiator as it’s the lack of air flow. Thoughts? I’ve pulled the radiator and it emptied out like it wasn’t blocked and fins look ok?

[rexy]

Running a shroud or other airflow control measures?

[I'm a Red Motor fiend]

How much compression?

[evl666]

Rexy all standard as per factory.
Compression was bumped up slightly with some flat tops added to the rebuild but nothing crazy.

[S pack]

I know this subject has been gone through a thousand times but I thought I’d chew your ears for an answer....
Newly build 202 and yes timing and fuel is correct. Standard gtr radiator with correct fan. New water pump with cast impeller. 80 degree thermostat. The car runs perfect (80-90 degrees) cruising around as well as giving it to her but at the traffic lights it’s a different story. Temp will climb up slowly but won’t stop unless we start driving again (got to about 120) It’s been suggested you me it must be the radiator as it’s the lack of air flow. Thoughts? I’ve pulled the radiator and it emptied out like it wasn’t blocked and fins look ok?

The reason I added a thermo fan in front of the radiator. Nothing wrong with the cooling system or engine. The system just couldn't cope when stuck in traffic on our really hot summer days.

[evl666]

Down here in Tassie today it was only about a sunny 24 degrees. I would have thought it should have coped with this easily. I have an identical set up in my lj but with triple carbs and that has no issue so something is not quite right with the lc. I’d like to avoid the thermo as I’m trying to keep it looking as original as possible

[grumpy xu1]

How well does the coolant ect flow through the radiator itself, as in past the filler cap position, circulation wise ?

[71xu1]

Standard GTR radiator from where? I had I won’t say name brand radiator heavy duty exact same problem.

Put an Aussie Desert coolers copper radiator using my tanks, looks like the original have never had a problem since.

[evl666]

Grumpy I didn’t check....I spat the dummy and pulled it out. The hoses are new and we’re not collapsed. It’s the original radiator (date markings on tank end) but I’m sure it’s had a re-core. I put a torch in to check the tubes and it looks clean as a whistle where I can see in.

[DMLC71]

Do it have a lumpy cam ?

[evl666]

Xu1 cam

[evl666]

Should I go back to a 90 degree thermostat? With the 80 is it open too much and letting to much flow through and the radiator is not getting the job done?

[71xu1]

Just put a decent radiator in it.

[S pack]

Should I go back to a 90 degree thermostat? With the 80 is it open too much and letting to much flow through and the radiator is not getting the job done?

No, that will only make the situation worse because you will have increased the minimum operating temp of the engine by 10 degrees.

[S pack]

 It’s the original radiator (date markings on tank end) but I’m sure it’s had a re-core. I put a torch in to check the tubes and it looks clean as a whistle where I can see in.

There may be blockages in tubes that you can't see. Only way to be sure is to have the tanks removed, the tubes checked and the tanks refitted if the core proves to be in sound condition.

Other than that a new radiator or core is probably the best move.

Edited by S pack, 24 February 2020 - 12:34 AM.

[DMLC71]

Hope this helps

I Have an LC

186S bor to 192, a wade 373 grind cam (XH XU1), stage 3 yella terra, triple su Carbies, trimatic with 3000 stall

It has a genuine LC radiator rebuilt to twin core, a thermostat that cuts in at 190, a manual switch Craig Davies thermo fan in front of the radiator and a trans cooler in front of that. 
The radiator water has the same coolant as you put in a BA to FG Ford and it’s from Ford ( prob waste of money)

Driving it on a nice day, sunny say 25 - 28 the temp gauge is always just over 190 and stays there.

The temp gauge was re built by Howard Instruments

Driving say 30 - 35 the temp will gradually climb to 3/4 when just idling in traffic without switching on the fan manually . I believe and I can be proved wrong that the lumpy cam throw out the rotation of the water flow around the motor. Once I accelerate and get moving again it takes a short while, say 5 minutes and the temp starts going down towards 190. Once in this traffic I switch the fan on and it slow the temp rising process but doesn’t fully stop it.

Driving over 35 deg forget the LC has no air con. Un enjoyable to drive.

 

I have built a few Holden 6s in my days. I believe but stand to be corrected a Holden red motor 186, 186s and 202 will run better when they are at a warm/ not temp than a cooler temp. 

 

 

cheers DazM

 

 

normal nice days I drive

[lawn bowls]

Just put a decent radiator in it.

i put a hq 3 row v8 radiator in my turbo 186 lj torana as i took out the original radiator with the same problem as what evil666 said.the bigger radiator made no difference to mine with running hot when idling i have twin thermo fans and made no difference.i even had the back of the bonnet raised about 2 inches for the heat to escape .but when driving it sits on 160 degrese.i dont use a thermostat cause i live in the tropics,and the main reason is cause thermostats are to get engines at operating tempreture.

[claysummers]

That is running too cold which is why you need a thermostat lb.

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[lawn bowls]

That is running too cold which is why you need a thermostat lb.

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i would it rather be running a bit cooler at driving than boiling sooner at idle.

[madtoranajzedded]

Yeah but the motor isnt even getting to operating
temp bro..evils in tas and shouldnt b having these
probs.id b doing what Dave mentioned.it very well
could b the shit radiator..ive had a nice 186 out
30thou,webbers .35/75 bumpstick roadracer head etc
and only had a 2 core with davies craig fan set at
190.never went over....perfect.

[claysummers]

I agree you don't want it boiling at the lights lawn bowls but running at 160F is not good by any means. I suppose you've tried advancing the static timing by ear?

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[lawn bowls]

I agree you don't want it boiling at the lights lawn bowls but running at 160F is not good by any means. I suppose you've tried advancing the static timing by ear?

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where i live its very humid.i tried a thermostat from cold start it was at 180 in about 5 minutes.

[claysummers]

Good result

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What st a tic timing you running?

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What static timing you running?

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[evl666]

Just an update guys.... radiator is in top nic so I’m back to square one.... I’m refitting it and going to test the gauge again a probe in the radiator

[MFM]

I suspect these cars did crept up and down whilst stopped at traffic lights from brand new but perhaps back in the 70's there weren't too many traffic lights unless you were driving in the city whereas these days there are traffic lights every 100 meters