Lc running water temp
#1
Posted 22 February 2020 - 05:07 PM
Newly build 202 and yes timing and fuel is correct. Standard gtr radiator with correct fan. New water pump with cast impeller. 80 degree thermostat. The car runs perfect (80-90 degrees) cruising around as well as giving it to her but at the traffic lights it’s a different story. Temp will climb up slowly but won’t stop unless we start driving again (got to about 120) It’s been suggested you me it must be the radiator as it’s the lack of air flow. Thoughts? I’ve pulled the radiator and it emptied out like it wasn’t blocked and fins look ok?
#2
Posted 22 February 2020 - 06:31 PM
Running a shroud or other airflow control measures?
#3
Posted 22 February 2020 - 06:39 PM
#4
Posted 22 February 2020 - 06:50 PM
Compression was bumped up slightly with some flat tops added to the rebuild but nothing crazy.
#5
Posted 22 February 2020 - 07:35 PM
I know this subject has been gone through a thousand times but I thought I’d chew your ears for an answer....
Newly build 202 and yes timing and fuel is correct. Standard gtr radiator with correct fan. New water pump with cast impeller. 80 degree thermostat. The car runs perfect (80-90 degrees) cruising around as well as giving it to her but at the traffic lights it’s a different story. Temp will climb up slowly but won’t stop unless we start driving again (got to about 120) It’s been suggested you me it must be the radiator as it’s the lack of air flow. Thoughts? I’ve pulled the radiator and it emptied out like it wasn’t blocked and fins look ok?
The reason I added a thermo fan in front of the radiator. Nothing wrong with the cooling system or engine. The system just couldn't cope when stuck in traffic on our really hot summer days.
#6
Posted 22 February 2020 - 07:43 PM
#7
Posted 22 February 2020 - 08:12 PM
#8
Posted 22 February 2020 - 08:47 PM
Put an Aussie Desert coolers copper radiator using my tanks, looks like the original have never had a problem since.
#9
Posted 22 February 2020 - 10:58 PM
#10
Posted 22 February 2020 - 11:14 PM
Do it have a lumpy cam ?
#11
Posted 22 February 2020 - 11:26 PM
#12
Posted 23 February 2020 - 08:00 AM
#13
Posted 24 February 2020 - 12:06 AM
#14
Posted 24 February 2020 - 12:31 AM
Should I go back to a 90 degree thermostat? With the 80 is it open too much and letting to much flow through and the radiator is not getting the job done?
No, that will only make the situation worse because you will have increased the minimum operating temp of the engine by 10 degrees.
#15
Posted 24 February 2020 - 12:34 AM
It’s the original radiator (date markings on tank end) but I’m sure it’s had a re-core. I put a torch in to check the tubes and it looks clean as a whistle where I can see in.
There may be blockages in tubes that you can't see. Only way to be sure is to have the tanks removed, the tubes checked and the tanks refitted if the core proves to be in sound condition.
Other than that a new radiator or core is probably the best move.
Edited by S pack, 24 February 2020 - 12:34 AM.
#16
Posted 24 February 2020 - 04:01 PM
Hope this helps
I Have an LC
186S bor to 192, a wade 373 grind cam (XH XU1), stage 3 yella terra, triple su Carbies, trimatic with 3000 stall
It has a genuine LC radiator rebuilt to twin core, a thermostat that cuts in at 190, a manual switch Craig Davies thermo fan in front of the radiator and a trans cooler in front of that.
The radiator water has the same coolant as you put in a BA to FG Ford and it’s from Ford ( prob waste of money)
Driving it on a nice day, sunny say 25 - 28 the temp gauge is always just over 190 and stays there.
The temp gauge was re built by Howard Instruments
Driving say 30 - 35 the temp will gradually climb to 3/4 when just idling in traffic without switching on the fan manually . I believe and I can be proved wrong that the lumpy cam throw out the rotation of the water flow around the motor. Once I accelerate and get moving again it takes a short while, say 5 minutes and the temp starts going down towards 190. Once in this traffic I switch the fan on and it slow the temp rising process but doesn’t fully stop it.
Driving over 35 deg forget the LC has no air con. Un enjoyable to drive.
I have built a few Holden 6s in my days. I believe but stand to be corrected a Holden red motor 186, 186s and 202 will run better when they are at a warm/ not temp than a cooler temp.
cheers DazM
normal nice days I drive
#17
Posted 27 February 2020 - 01:13 AM
Just put a decent radiator in it.
i put a hq 3 row v8 radiator in my turbo 186 lj torana as i took out the original radiator with the same problem as what evil666 said.the bigger radiator made no difference to mine with running hot when idling i have twin thermo fans and made no difference.i even had the back of the bonnet raised about 2 inches for the heat to escape .but when driving it sits on 160 degrese.i dont use a thermostat cause i live in the tropics,and the main reason is cause thermostats are to get engines at operating tempreture.
#18
Posted 27 February 2020 - 06:24 AM
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#19
Posted 27 February 2020 - 12:20 PM
That is running too cold which is why you need a thermostat lb.
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i would it rather be running a bit cooler at driving than boiling sooner at idle.
#20
Posted 27 February 2020 - 05:59 PM
temp bro..evils in tas and shouldnt b having these
probs.id b doing what Dave mentioned.it very well
could b the shit radiator..ive had a nice 186 out
30thou,webbers .35/75 bumpstick roadracer head etc
and only had a 2 core with davies craig fan set at
190.never went over....perfect.
#21
Posted 27 February 2020 - 06:36 PM
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#22
Posted 27 February 2020 - 11:23 PM
I agree you don't want it boiling at the lights lawn bowls but running at 160F is not good by any means. I suppose you've tried advancing the static timing by ear?
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where i live its very humid.i tried a thermostat from cold start it was at 180 in about 5 minutes.
#23
Posted 28 February 2020 - 06:41 AM
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What st a tic timing you running?
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What static timing you running?
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#24
Posted 28 February 2020 - 05:43 PM
#25
Posted 28 February 2020 - 07:43 PM
I suspect these cars did crept up and down whilst stopped at traffic lights from brand new but perhaps back in the 70's there weren't too many traffic lights unless you were driving in the city whereas these days there are traffic lights every 100 meters
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