11 replies to this topic

[Cook]

Hi all.  I want to run my release cable inside the front guard.  I know it's been done by heaps of people but I can't seem to find one thread that details exactly where it was run, ie. where it exits the guard/pillar at the front and rear, how it is retained/bracketed and if a standard cable or other was used.  Any pics would be great.  Cheers Ron

[76lxhatch]

I don't have any actual photos either but this one with the wiring might help the description:

 

First off you will definitely need a longer cable, preferably one that has a reasonable amount of flex in both the inner and the sheath so you can make some slightly tighter turns. Mine is a tandem bike brake cable with one of those coil-style steel outers from another cable I found somewhere. I drilled the original pull handle out a little and soldered the new cable into it.

 

The hole at the firewall its pretty simple just find a good spot that comes out under the guard so that you can tie it up high. Mine runs a very similar route to the wiring shown in the photo above, only needs to be cable tied to the speed nuts for the guard. Then at the front there are two holes, the first is about in line with the bonnet shut bumper, this allows the cable to run into the engine bay inside the front/top radiator support where you can't really see it. The second allows it to poke through the front of the support on an angle just inboard of the passenger side horn mount - you'll see where the cable wants to run to meet the release by this stage.

 

Again not actually shown here but the two holes at the front would be on the bottom left and almost bottom middle of this photo:

[Cook]

Thanks 76LXHatch.  Here's some pics of where I am at.  I have run the wiring and the washer bottle hose pump in the guard so I think I can pick up some of that bracketry for the cable.  I haven't worked out where the cable would enter the pillar at the front yet as I can't find the bracket that bolts to the underdash but expect it isn't too low.  I was thinking of getting it to enter the engine bay under that corner section of the rad support so you can't see it, and exit back out where the original hole is (where my finger is pointing).  I understand that I will need to ensure flexibility in the cable but I'm thinking it isn't running to dissimilar to original, just the other side of the inner guard. I'll continue mulling it over as I don't want to drill any holes until 100% sure.  Things that should have been done before paint work lol.  Cheers Ron

Attached Files

•  Inner Guard Pic1.jpg   226.1K   6 downloads
•  Inner Guard Pic2.jpg   230.41K   4 downloads
•  Where Bonnet Release Cable exits bay.jpg   122.84K   4 downloads

[Cook]

I was just having a look at the parts catalogue and appears the cable runs over the top of the rad support and picks up that clip in the nose cone or am I mistaken. If not why do I have a hole in the rad support on the side where my finger is pointing?  Cheers Ron

Edited by Cook, 23 March 2020 - 11:32 AM.

[76lxhatch]

Bracketry isn't too important as the cable sheath is anchored at both ends, anything that stops it flopping around is fine.

 

SS had two horns (one either side, normal and high-note), not sure which side is the optional one. There will be a hole in the front of the support very close to where your finger is (not visible in the photo), with a welded nut behind it (but maybe just a hole if you never had the horn). Mine runs out about 30mm inboard from this but you could potentially run through anywhere around that area.

 

I can't remember exactly but I think maybe I did run up at a fair angle from the pull handle to the firewall, if you're aiming to get it up under the top of the guard I think that's a bit higher than it was originally inside the engine bay. This is where the more flexible cable is helpful, you can get tighter bends than the more rigid style without issue and have it more hidden. Get the cable sorted and lay it out in position on top, you'll soon see where it wants to sit and what sort of bends you can get away with without crimping it.

[Statler]

My wiring & bonnet cable are exiting the cabin behind the top of the mudguard. Both go through separate rubber grommets.

 

I bought a longer cable which fit the original mounting bracket . 

[Cook]

Thanks for that.  Maybe that hole is for a dual horn.  My captive nut is in the same location on the passenger side. I haven't determined where or what horn/s I will run (any suggestions?) but was thinking something smaller than originals and maybe locating in the guard.  Just not sure what that would do to the sound.  I will do some playing around with the original cable first and see where that leads me.  May have to pay a visit to my friends at Autocables.  Cheers Ron

 

Sorry Col I was typing a response when your post came in.  So where does your cable exit the guard at the front?

Edited by Cook, 23 March 2020 - 12:20 PM.

[yel327]

Just out of interest, why move it? Just makes it easier for someone to get the bonnet open by yanking the release cable outer sheath.

[Cook]

Good point Yel.  I'm just trying to un-clutter the engine bay.  May have to weigh up the pros and cons with this one.  Cheers Ron

[Statler]

 So where does your cable exit the guard at the front?

I have P-clamps on the underside of each guard bolt. The bonnet cable skips the last clamp & bends out , then curves back into a drilled hole beneath the rad support.  You need to ensure the cable travel is as straight as possible .

 

I've seen guys cut the pull tab from the lower leg & reverse it , so that it points down & completely hides the cable .

[derrin71]

I used a cable from a HQ/WB, (not sure which one now, was a long time ago) plenty long enough.

[Cook]

Thanks Col that is where I am heading.  I've found the under-dash bracket so I can start to try and get a handle where it has to/can enter the pillar into the guard as it looks a bit low.  Measure and check eight times before I drill lol.

 

Thanks Derrin.  Have you done the same thing running it in the guard? Cheers Ron