14 replies to this topic

[yel327]

Open or closed nut?

[73SUNBURSTEXYOUWON]

Drill a series of small holes side by side along the top edge of the nut from the stud, outward to the nut edge....and split the nut using a cold chisel...you may need to do the drillings on opposing sides of the nut..

Hope this helps..

[Balfizar]

So I’ve just had my 14x10 Hotwires refurbished and gone to remove the wheel to upgrade the brakes and it appears the last mongrel that fitted the wheel cross threaded a nut.
I managed to get the nut about a third off before the spline on the stud gave way. The whole lot just spins now.
I can’t get to the rear of the stud and asking if anyone knows of a way to remove the nut, hopefully without killing my wheel.

Vise grip the nut, (or ring spanner or 1/2" drive socket and vice grip) - to keep it steady, grind a flat surface on the nut if its closed (blind) centre punch and drill out the nut.  

If the stud is spinning you may have rooted the Hub spline!

1/2" drive socket and vice grip is the best option,  use a 1/2" drill in the 1/2" drive socket to centre the initial drilling indentation (it will be centred to the stud.)

Drill just enough to create an indentation for the next drill.

Then Start with a 3 mm drill and accurately as possible centre it to the stud, increase drill size in small increments.

Put PVC tape on the drills to mark the drill depth you want ( Less that the conical depth of the nut) so you won't drill into the wheel.

Last drill size to use is one that just fits into the nut with a little clearance.

Once you have drilled out the stud thread in the nut ( about 0.5 mm below the stud tread valleys)  put a pin pinch in the hole you drilled

you should be able to lever it to snap off the remaining stud thread. 

When you put it back together, use an anti-seize  like coppertone, just a drop to stop this from happening again and don't ever use blind wheel nut they cause half the problems 

especially with low spec steel in the nut or stud.

Edited by Balfizar, 04 April 2020 - 09:13 PM.

[rodomo]

you may need to do the drillings on opposing sides of the nut..

Hope this helps..

 Yes, the nut and stud will be more or less welded together now by swarf binding and friction.

[claysummers]

Centre punch the nut and drill out


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[S pack]

If you were able to undo the nut about a third of the way you should have some of the shank of the wheel nut exposed above the surface of the wheel and metal washer with the wheel pushed firmly up against the hub.

Do you have a Dremel and reinforced carborundum cut off wheels to cut through the shank directly below the hex? Perhaps a 4" angle grinder with a 1mm cut off wheel? Make sure you apply plenty of masking tape all over the rim for protection and a drop sheet over the car.

[claysummers]

If the shank nut was cross threaded, chances are the hole has been flogged out. They usually bind in the hole before they cross thread in my experience.


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[madtoranajzedded]

Undo all the nuts and have some one pull on the tire
as you turn.

[claysummers]

Is it on the front? I don’t suppose you could unbolt the caliper and take the hub off.


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[yel327]

Is it on the front? I don’t suppose you could unbolt the caliper and take the hub off.


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When the same happened to me on my HZ Overlander, I welded the stud to the disc from behind. Then used brute force to turn the wheel nut. I had to replace the hub after that though (same as an Aussie Jeep Cherokee so ran a hub with a separate disc). The same may be possible with this though if it is a front.

[madtoranajzedded]

Damn..im no help..misread your post.thought it was
just a stripped nut...

How did you go anyway

[S pack]

Good work Ken