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#1 chriso-k

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Posted 14 May 2020 - 10:22 PM

I fabricated and welded in a replacement panel in the plenum chamber.  Where the Toranas'  are well known for always rusting away (still in the process, not finished yet. More grinding, welding and touch up to go yet). 

 

I have gone over it with fish oil. And I intend giving it a final coat of sound deadener (tar). 

 

The manufacturer of the deadener indicates the tar is a perfect long term application for this area.

 

Any thoughts on this?  Is there a better, long term corrosion protection process than what I'm applying?

 

Cheers

Chris

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#2 rodomo

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Posted 14 May 2020 - 10:33 PM

Simple answer?   :huh: Don't get the Gremlin wet!!!! :spoton:



#3 chriso-k

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Posted 14 May 2020 - 10:52 PM

Simple answer?   :huh: Don't get the Gremlin wet!!!! :spoton:


I'll put a raincoat over the plenum chamber when it rains



#4 claysummers

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Posted 14 May 2020 - 11:00 PM

I’m not a fan of “tar” application. The General used it extensively and I hav3 often found rust underneath. It is all about the prep really, and these cars were often rusty before the tar went on.

If you can get it to clean bare metal you can’t beat Epotec 2k epoxy etch prime after metal prep and wax and grease remover. They use it to paint swimming pools after all.

If you can’t get to it to get it totally clean then fisholene or one of the high-tech, read expensive, synthetic alternatives.


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#5 sibhs

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Posted 14 May 2020 - 11:01 PM

Hi Chris,

check out POR 15 or KBS. These are the most popular methods. 

POR 15 is made in USA and KBS Australian, both quality products.

 

Marty



#6 Indy Orange

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Posted 14 May 2020 - 11:17 PM

Simple answer?   :huh: Don't get the Gremlin wet!!!! :spoton:

I agree cars 40 or 50 years old you don't want to get wet ! And then put it away ,It was a different quality metal back in the day , rusted quite quickly , that's why there's hardly any Chargers ,Falcons and Toranas around now .

#7 purrlx

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Posted 15 May 2020 - 07:30 AM

I just sealed mine with KBS rust seal after a clean and KBS rust blast treatment.

#8 chriso-k

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Posted 15 May 2020 - 09:14 AM

I’m not a fan of “tar” application. The General used it extensively and I hav3 often found rust underneath. It is all about the prep really, and these cars were often rusty before the tar went on.

If you can get it to clean bare metal you can’t beat Epotec 2k epoxy etch prime after metal prep and wax and grease remover. They use it to paint swimming pools after all.

If you can’t get to it to get it totally clean then fisholene or one of the high-tech, read expensive, synthetic alternatives.


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Agree. Rust was of no concern when these vehicles were assembled. When you dig down deep you uncover some pretty sub standard applications. Panels were assembled without any corrosive protection treatment (or very little) . They were designed to be used for a space of time and then discarded for another replacement, Replacements were plentiful back then and cheap. You could buy a Torana for a few hundred bucks back then. I actually got one back in the seventies for a carton of beer. True story! The guy just wanted it gone off his front lawn. I bet he's kicking himself in the backside now.  And I'm kicking myself in the backside for not storing it.

This Epotec 2k epoxy etch prime you speak about, I did have someone else bring up the subject on this primer for the plenum area. When I think primer I think porous. So this primer is a single application (no top coats) and is there for life providing maximum protection?  


Edited by chriso-k, 15 May 2020 - 09:19 AM.


#9 claysummers

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Posted 15 May 2020 - 09:29 AM

Correct. Acrylic primer are porous yes but Epotec is two pack epoxy etch prime. As I said they use it for swimming pools as well as automotive. If you want to paint acrylic over it just need to use primer surfacer first them top coat. No need to put anything over it if it won't be seen although you could go cavity wax to be sure to be sure. 8) 8)

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#10 chriso-k

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Posted 15 May 2020 - 05:48 PM

Correct. Acrylic primer are porous yes but Epotec is two pack epoxy etch prime. As I said they use it for swimming pools as well as automotive. If you want to paint acrylic over it just need to use primer surfacer first them top coat. No need to put anything over it if it won't be seen although you could go cavity wax to be sure to be sure. 8) 8)

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If they use it for swimming pools, which are constantly filled with 24k litres of water, or even more, then it has to be a pretty good application in a plenum chamber that is exposed to  some moisture and occasional rain (rain in Australia? Not likely) 



#11 rodomo

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Posted 15 May 2020 - 10:27 PM

I agree cars 40 or 50 years old you don't want to get wet ! And then put it away ,It was a different quality metal back in the day , rusted quite quickly , that's why there's hardly any Chargers ,Falcons and Toranas around now .

More of these resto's will survive longer because they are not dailys.

#12 MFM

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Posted 16 May 2020 - 12:18 PM

For starters don't wash it and avoid rain. That should stop 90% of the rust growth depending on where you store the car. The steel in these old cars seems to rust badly compared to modern cars and I'm not sure why. High carbon content I suspect. On the Coast close to the sea you are fighting a losing battle even if you don't wash it. Rust needs water or air moisture to grow. Everyone has a rust proofing recipe of their own, and mine is fish oil as it gets into all cracks and crevices.



#13 chriso-k

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Posted 16 May 2020 - 01:52 PM

For starters don't wash it and avoid rain. That should stop 90% of the rust growth depending on where you store the car. The steel in these old cars seems to rust badly compared to modern cars and I'm not sure why. High carbon content I suspect. On the Coast close to the sea you are fighting a losing battle even if you don't wash it. Rust needs water or air moisture to grow. Everyone has a rust proofing recipe of their own, and mine is fish oil as it gets into all cracks and crevices.


My understanding is modern day cars are dipped in a solution whereby neutralizing the promotion of rust. Something like adding coolant in your radiator to inhibit corrosion. This is why you rarely ever see a modern vehicle with rust. I've seen junk cars in wrecking yards, sitting there in the open for 20+ years, without any rust. From around the mid eighties (even earlier) onwards, rust started disappearing from cars.   Whereas olden day cars did not have the benefit of this technology.  Olden day cars were just assembled and the underside, along with other areas, was predominently coated with tar. The tar seems to have gone the distance though. Looking at my LH, I've sanded away tar from numerous locations, and to my delight, have uncovered clean metal underneath. In other areas (A pillar - plenum chamber, as an example)  however, there was little if any anti corrosive treatment applied hence the vulnerability of these areas rotting away.


Edited by chriso-k, 16 May 2020 - 01:54 PM.


#14 chriso-k

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Posted 16 May 2020 - 02:00 PM

More of these resto's will survive longer because they are not dailys.


But also, most of these restos will outlive their owners. Because most restorers take pride in their work. They proceed with "above standard" applications (rust preventative treatments) that will surely preserve vulnerable areas of the vehicle for life.



#15 yel327

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Posted 16 May 2020 - 02:01 PM

They started using zinc coated steel too from the mid to late 80’s.

#16 chriso-k

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Posted 16 May 2020 - 06:06 PM

I thought I'd add a few of my pics on my progress. This is a bonnet I picked up from a junk yard. Best I could come up with at the time.  Someone had cut one of those letterboxes on it and it was left with a huge hole in it. I go laughed at. " You"ll never restore that", I got told.

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Edited by chriso-k, 16 May 2020 - 06:10 PM.


#17 chriso-k

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Posted 16 May 2020 - 06:09 PM

I thought I'd add a few of my pics on my progress. This is a bonnet I picked up from a junk yard. Best I could come up with at the time.  Someone had cut one of those letterboxes on it and it was left with a huge hole in it. I got laughed at. " You"ll never restore that", I got told.  Not quite finished yet. Still have paint to go.


 

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Edited by chriso-k, 16 May 2020 - 06:17 PM.


#18 gtrfreak

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Posted 16 May 2020 - 06:21 PM


 From around the mid eighties (even earlier) onwards, rust started disappearing from cars.  

 

Yeah, Nah.



#19 I'm a Red Motor fiend

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Posted 17 May 2020 - 05:02 PM

Ford must be doing something wrong then because later Falcons are chronic for rust. We rectify plenty.

#20 grumpy xu1

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Posted 17 May 2020 - 06:25 PM

Epoxy, IS a primer, it is NOT a top coat & it should be top coated over, 250 ml of top coat 2 pack colour is like $40, spend the money, do the job once & properly. It's the ingredients in the epoxy ect that prevent the rusting. Top coats are water proof & uv stabilized. Car's last if things are done properly. Paint companies spend millions of dollars on the technology, so you can get a quality product.




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