11 replies to this topic

[Gatti]

I have a strange issue happening with my regulator.

 

After having the car idling for a while as I balanced my carbs I shut it off and when I went to restart the battery was dead.

 

I charged it and started her up and pulled the terminals off the battery and it the motor stopped (that is how I was told to check the alternator is charging)

 

I pulled the alternator and got it rebuilt and also bought a new external regulator while I was at it.

 

Here's the issue, if I have the car running I still don't get charge at the battery, however if I run it when the regulator isn't attached to the engine bay by it's screws it has no charge but if I take it off and just sit it in the bay I get around 13.6 to 14v 😳

 

I'm guessing there must be a short somewhere, but auto electrics is really not something I'm good at.

 

I'm planning on taking it to the auto electrician tomorrow but thought I'd see if anyone has a good way to diagnose the fault?

[Gatti]

I just read my post and realised I stuffed the description of the issue.

 

It should be - Here's the issue, if I have the car running I still don't get charge at the battery, however if I run it when the regulator isn't attached to the engine bay by it's screws and just sit it in there it has charge and I get around 13.6 to 14v

[ChrisLC]

I just read my post and realised I stuffed the description of the issue.

 

It should be - Here's the issue, if I have the car running I still don't get charge at the battery, however if I run it when the regulator isn't attached to the engine bay by it's screws and just sit it in there it has charge and I get around 13.6 to 14v

Mate, the car's cactus. I will take it off your hands. The parts might come in handy.

If you really must persist with this troublesome car, sounds like the regulator has a short circuit to it's casing. When casing get's grounded, then no go. Maybe someone has a spare you can try? I got rid of mine years ago.

 

EDIT I read the second post first.

Edited by ChrisLC, 06 July 2020 - 05:17 PM.

[Gatti]

Mate, the car's cactus. I will take it off your hands. The parts might come in handy.

If you really must persist with this troublesome car, sounds like the regulator has a short circuit to it's casing. When casing get's grounded, then no go. Maybe someone has a spare you can try? I got rid of mine years ago.

 

EDIT I read the second post first.

 

Thanks mate

 

I'm thinking the issue may be the connectors and wire between the alternator and regulator so I have bought new connectors this morning and I will see if that fixes the issue tonight.

[rexy]

Your screws are earthing the current from the alternator?

[Gatti]

Finally sorted it tonight.

 

It turns out that the wire had broken at the connector on the starter motor, even though when I originally tested it there was 12v at the alternator it must have shifted just enough to finally have no contact at all which is why there was no charge at the battery.

 

I ran a new wire and she's all good.

 

Looks like I had the alternator reconditioned for no reason  

 

I hate auto electrics!

[rodomo]

The wire at the starter is a fusible link, in other words, a FUSE

 

If you've popped that, you might still have problems?

 

DON'T replace it with normal wire, it is a fuse to protect the circuit.

[Gatti]

The wire at the starter is a fusible link, in other words, a FUSE

 

If you've popped that, you might still have problems?

 

DON'T replace it with normal wire, it is a fuse to protect the circuit.

 

I replaced it with the exact same gauge wire that was already there.

 

Isn't the fusable link part of the harness so totally seperate from the wire I replaced?

[Gatti]

I'll put an inline fuse in to be safe.

 

It's got a 55amp alternator so what size fuse should I fit?

[Gatti]

Just reading up on the fuseable link and from what I can find on here, the fuseable link is between the starter and the fuse box inside the car not the starter and the battery??

[RallyRed]

Yep, it cant be between the battery and the starter, as the cranking amps would blow it quick smart.

 

You are correct mate, it is to protect the car/fusebox, so it goes between the starter and the fuse box. The LC/LJ wiring diagrams show it .

 

As for size...it needs to be able to handle the full electrical load of the vehicle i.e. theoretically all lights on, high bean, heater on, horn on, brakes on etc etc. 

I think I recall a number of 80amps...but dont quote me.

[Gatti]

Yep, it cant be between the battery and the starter, as the cranking amps would blow it quick smart.

 

You are correct mate, it is to protect the car/fusebox, so it goes between the starter and the fuse box. The LC/LJ wiring diagrams show it .

 

As for size...it needs to be able to handle the full electrical load of the vehicle i.e. theoretically all lights on, high bean, heater on, horn on, brakes on etc etc. 

I think I recall a number of 80amps...but dont quote me.

 

Cool.

 

That would be why it is just a cable going to the alternator as the fuseable link is on a different circuit going into the cabin of the car.

 

Doing some research and I found pretty much all cars don't have a fuse between the battery and the starter as the cold cranking amps are so high and all fuses etc are taken care of after the starter circuit.

 

Having said that there's no reason I couldn't add a fuse into the cable I replaced for a bit of extra safety as it's not part of the starter circuit.

 

My alternator is just a 55amp one so I will fit a 60amp fuse for bit of headroom.

Edited by Gatti, 10 July 2020 - 11:21 AM.