14 replies to this topic

[Rockoz]

How long is a piece of string?

 

Depends on the operator. Some can do panels without wrecking them, some cant.

 

Some leave a body full of sand which will decide to come out at the worst time, such as in the middle of painting.

 

 

Cheers

 

Rob

[claysummers]

Where you located? Others may be able to recommend someone near you.


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[Rockoz]

Ive looked at chemical stripping.

It seems to have the least number of problems.

A good blasting place wont damage your car, but a bad one could cost you thousands.

 

With the chemical dipping, again of done properly will be the best.

Some will say that you will get acid leaking out later to damage the paint.

But wherever the acid got to, the neutraliser they use gets there too.

So does the water they use too rinse it off and even the phosphoric acid treatment at the end gets into all the same places.

A mate of mine had dustless blasting done on a car, and it came out really great.

Basically thats sand blasting with water.

Im even considering buying a unit to do mobile blasting.

 

Cheers

 

Rob

[Retyred]

Hi Peter. If you decide to go down the media blasting path, and you have the time, it might be worth considering stripping the paint off the major exterior panels yourself. I have a Hatchback in resto at the moment and I used paintstripper to remove the paint off all the major exterior panels (hood, roof, hatch, doors, quarters and fenders) out to maybe 50mm from their edges. I did this to ensure that there was no risk of panel damage during stripping. It can take a little while to do , especially if there is any bog under the paint, and is messy. You then just need to hit the bare metal with a bit of etch primer (spray can is fine) to protect the bare metal for a while.

My body guy then got the rest of the stripping done at a media blaster. I am in Melbourne so names are no use to you.

Just something else to consider.

Cheers Bill

[Heath]

If you're blasting, absolutely all of the nooks and crannies, the whole underside, the inside of the floor, top of the firewall, the frames of panels... anything where there are compound curves, jams, lots of pressing details, window frames, driveline & suspension parts, bumper brackets, crossmembers etc. you're absolutely fine.

 

The concern is on flat panels that have minimal strength. Like the skins of a roof, a guard, a bonnet, a door, etc.

 

If you decide to play it safe and manually strip the skins of your guards, bonnet, doors, roof, quarters, etc. - blasting all the shit I've described above will still save you an astronomical amount of time.

Edited by Heath, 15 July 2020 - 03:25 PM.

[claysummers]

If you want to go chemical stripping then you are lucky Minus Paint are in Adelaide at Wingfield. I have only heard good things about them though haven’t used them.

I’m at the colour and assemble stage of my first bare metal repaint and did everything in house. When I say bare metal I didn’t bother stripping paint inside the car or door jambs if the paint was good.

Underneath I wire brushed clean, leaving light surface rust and painted with a phosphoric acid based non-porous paintable primer/finish. It is a matte black impervious finish which I’m happy with as is.

Exterior I used stripper first, but it wouldn’t take off the red lead etch primer. The stuff was bullet proof. This is a Dulon acrylic Holden, 1961. Having used stripper I decided I had better get all the paint off regardless, in case some had infiltrated the paint that was left.

I ended up using a clean and strip disc for most of the interior, which is a very satisfying method, giving a gleaming bare metal finish. Used five discs on the whole car, slow speed on a polisher so as not to burn the discs.

Any tight spots bought $25 sand blast gun for my compressor and two buckets of dried sand from building supplies at $6 per bag. A bit messy but wear all the gear and just do the tight spots.

Then prep, clean and spray everything with 3 coats 2k epoxy etch prime before surface rust sets in. Polyester filler can be used over the 2k etch as it is non-porous.

I have to admit it was fairly labour intensive but inexpensive. About as much work as filling and surface prep but much less materials cost.


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[grumpy xu1]

If you're blasting, absolutely all of the nooks and crannies, the whole underside, the inside of the floor, top of the firewall, the frames of panels... anything where there are compound curves, jams, lots of pressing details, window frames, driveline & suspension parts, bumper brackets, crossmembers etc. you're absolutely fine.
 
The concern is on flat panels that have minimal strength. Like the skins of a roof, a guard, a bonnet, a door, etc.
 
If you decide to play it safe and manually strip the skins of your guards, bonnet, doors, roof, quarters, etc. - blasting all the shit I've described above will still save you an astronomical amount of time.

Follow this mate, epoxy etch primer "after" stripping & obviously prepping the panel. & the same if you media blast it. Don't use spray can rubbish. Use a quality etch primer product & yes the stripper disc's are the go. I must have said all this 50 times before.

[grumpy xu1]

If it's external strip it with paint stripper, any of the jams, floor pan ect you can blast. All the interior apart from the roof aswell.

[Ice]

If it's external strip it with paint stripper, any of the jams, floor pan ect you can blast. All the interior apart from the roof aswell.

So no windowless panel van sides then

Blasting i mean

[yel327]

Exterior I used stripper first, but it wouldn’t take off the red lead etch primer. The stuff was bullet proof. This is a Dulon acrylic Holden, 1961. Having used stripper I decided I had better get all the paint off regardless, in case some had infiltrated the paint that was left.



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That red lead was applied when the shell was warm and it was applied electrostatically, that’s why it got everywhere it could find an opening. Then it was baked as it is a heat cured paint not air dried. It it very hard to remove. The acrylic paint was also heat cured, it wasn’t traditional air dry like the re-finish acrylic.

[claysummers]

Next time I won’t take it off. It’s easily as good as bare metal.


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