16 replies to this topic

[yel327]

Might be a dumb question, but maybe not. Someone here will probably know the exact answer I'm looking for.

 

Looking at using an FG V8/turbo radiator in my HK. Fitment looks pretty simple with some fabrication.

 

But the question is around the lack of a filler. Just wondering if this will be an issue in a HK?

 

The FG Radiator uses a coolant tank with filler cap on it. You can see a tank here but this is a photo of an AU (some have a traditional radiator cap, this one has an FG type cap):

 

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Here is the radiator:

 

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Looks like on an AU one of the smaller hoses from the coolant tank goes to a small outlet on the top right (looking from the engine's perspective) of the radiator, the other goes to the top of the thermostat housing. Is this just a thermostat bypass? There is only the one hose on an FG to that small point on the radiator.

 

The larger hose off the coolant tank goes to the smaller outlet in the middle of the radiator on the RH side.

 

It is easy to buy an inline filler cap that goes in the top hose but would it be needed in this case? Where is the pressure relief on an FG? Some AU have a traditional cap on the overflow bottle but the FG has a plastic cap (you can see the one small hose on the FG too):

 

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This car will have alloy heads, alloy intake, alloy heater core (Vintage air setup) and alloy water pump on a SBC so the alloy cored radiator should be OK with the appropriate coolant/inhibitor.

 

Just curious if this will work OK.

 

Edit - I just found a close up picture of an FG overflow bottle, looks like the yellow plastic cap is the pressure relief, and that one outlet most be the drain. Maybe the radiator has an integral drain built into the plastic sides? In which case I could simply plumb that small port straight to ground if this plastic tank was mounted in front of the master cylinder on the HK, and higher than the engine and radiator.

 

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Edited by yel327, 14 July 2020 - 11:35 AM.

[Dr Terry]

The extra hose on the AU was to bleed the obvious air trap at the thermostat housing.

 

In their wisdom ?? Ford deleted this & just have the single bleeder tube from the radiator tank.

 

I like using a clear plastic header tank. They are easier to fill & keep an eye for coolant loss. The water in the tank gives you more of a safety margin, if you do spring a leak.

 

My VY V8 has the same set-up from the factory & it works well. Also it's ideal for old cars with performance motors.

 

Dr Terry

[yel327]

Terry
Is it worth using an AU setup rather than FG? Looks like the Ford thermostat cover may even fit the SBC or be made to fit.

Is there an over pressure bleed or does the cap just vent air under pressure?

[Dr Terry]

The plastic pressure cap operates the same as a convention metal cap. I think the relief pressure is about 20kpa.

 

I think the FG will be fine. The HK doesn't have such as big height difference between the radiator & the thermo housing.

 

Dr Terry

[yel327]

Thanks Terry.

For over pressure I meant water not air. Given it’s a half full bottle it should only be air anyway.

[Dr Terry]

Thanks Terry.

For over pressure I meant water not air. Given it’s a half full bottle it should only be air anyway.

Probably steam as well.

 

Dr Terry

[yel327]

Yes.

I forgot to add, also allows me to run an FG fan easily, if it clears. If not a pair of AU fans. It should clear though as I have no traditional water pump

[VZ1_60]

if the BA radiator fitment ends up being difficult, maybe try a VS Commodore radiator, normal filler, also the V6 2 speed fans bolt on to the V8 radiators.

[yel327]

VS radiator spouts ares about, no good for a Chevrolet engine.

I think this will all fit and work, I’ll make it using 100% bolt in brackets using original holes. Only iffy one might be the bottom support on the expansion tank.

I’m also going to use a VL V8 aircon condenser if it fits

[DMLC71]

Over flow bottle
I stand to be corrected but it is more a coolant reservoir rather than an overflow bottle. AU to FG radiators don’t hold a lot of water as other radiators. Keep in mind the reservoir needs to be higher than the radiator. The AU FG radiators work really well with there thermo fan set up. If the radiator and thermo fan are separated I’m nut sure how well they would work as a separate item

 

cheers

Dazm

[yel327]

I plan to run the FG radiator and fan together. Fan driven by the Holley Sniper.

You are probably right, it is a reservoir not an overflow.

[yel327]

Got a BA radiator out of a wreck yesterday to measure. Way too wide to fit between a HK’s rails down low. Looks like I’m back to using an old HQ 350 5 row and dodging up an FG fan to fit it. I can’t see a cross flow radiator being narrow enough to fit and also be big enough to cool a SBC.

[yel327]

Other option explored today is a PWR or ADC alloy radiator. Lot more expensive than the donor option especially if you buy it with the fans and shroud. But people also pay a fortune for good HT-HQ 350 original cores and I have a few of them here as good as new, so would easily offset the cost just selling one of them.

 

Has anyone here played around with chasing stray currents and had success finding the cause? If so what was the cause? did you hard mount the alloy radiator or use rubber (insulating) mounts?

[claysummers]

Haven’t played with currents but just a suggestion on alternatives. Guy on the FB EK forum used one from a Nissan. Although outlets are on the wrong side as it is a red six, maybe something similar. Note the rubber mounts. If it fits in an FB.......


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[yel327]

Outlets on Holden 6 and SBC are in the same locations, only difference is 6cyl outlets are half the size of SBC ones.

It almost looks like that is sitting above the rails. Does look a bit small though, needs to handle 2.5-3 times the power of a red 6. I will go looking and see what else might fit.

[Sned99]

Get one of your copper/ brass radiators recored. Gone are the days of needing 5rows of tubes and thick cores etc. There are great core options now where a 3row at 57mm thick and 8.4mm tube pitch (distance from centre of tube to the next one) will have more tubes than the 5row and better airflow. Also the tubes are bigger. Might cost close to what a top quality aluminium radiator might cost, but you will end up with a bulletproof serviceable radiator. Sorry for long reply. Radiator repairer of 25 years & counting 😉

[Lima31]

Get one of your copper/ brass radiators recored. Gone are the days of needing 5rows of tubes and thick cores etc. There are great core options now where a 3row at 57mm thick and 8.4mm tube pitch (distance from centre of tube to the next one) will have more tubes than the 5row and better airflow. Also the tubes are bigger. Might cost close to what a top quality aluminium radiator might cost, but you will end up with a bulletproof serviceable radiator. Sorry for long reply. Radiator repairer of 25 years & counting

 

This, plus a decent shrouded fan will do well.  Mondeo or AU fans should fit.