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Hq brakes on lc


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#1 Bluelc70

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Posted 04 August 2020 - 09:38 PM

Gday i have read dozens of threads and i cant get an exact answer on the hq brakes to lc conversion.

I understand that you can have 6mm machined from the radius of a hq rotor and hq calipers can mount directly to the lc torana disk brake stubs on the rear.

What brake line would i need to use with this setup?

I saw people had issues with the brake line getting in the way of the bump stops, how have people got around this?

All the previous threads has photos at some stahe but it seems most of those photos are no lomger availabe.

Cheers

#2 hotmetal1000

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Posted 05 August 2020 - 05:29 PM

Depending on what rims you are running the HQ calipers can still be a very tight fit in the rim.

You need HQ brake lines.

The brake line and the back of the caliper will hit the bump stop on a LC/J, not good. I removed the back portion of the bump stop to give clearance.

The other issue I had was the passenger side was dragging the outside pad, required some careful removal of metal until things lined up properly.



#3 limo

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Posted 05 August 2020 - 08:48 PM

I was told better to swap stubb axles left to right etc and put calipers at front. Also use late LX or Uc calipers.  I have a set up HQ rotors and calipers at the back and thought they hit lower wish bones.

Haven't used it the front end was on a LJ I bought as a donor



#4 Dr Terry

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Posted 06 August 2020 - 11:34 AM

I doubt that LX or UC callipers will fit over HQ rotors. HQ rotors are much thicker (25.4mm vs 16mm).

 

Dr Terry



#5 Bluelc70

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Posted 10 August 2020 - 12:29 AM

Depending on what rims you are running the HQ calipers can still be a very tight fit in the rim.
You need HQ brake lines.
The brake line and the back of the caliper will hit the bump stop on a LC/J, not good. I removed the back portion of the bump stop to give clearance.
The other issue I had was the passenger side was dragging the outside pad, required some careful removal of metal until things lined up properly.


Thanks for the info. Do you have any photos of how you trimmed the portion of the upper bump stop mount?

#6 hotmetal1000

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Posted 10 August 2020 - 05:02 PM

Thanks for the info. Do you have any photos of how you trimmed the portion of the upper bump stop mount?

I haven't any photos of the bump stop. Basically it was about the back third of the bump stop removed. Mine seems to only use the front third of the bump stop, I don't know if that is typical of LC/J's. I haven't had any problems with it so far but time will tell if it was a good idea or not.



#7 hotmetal1000

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Posted 10 August 2020 - 05:15 PM

Thanks for the info. Do you have any photos of how you trimmed the portion of the upper bump stop mount?

I haven't any photos of the bump stop. Basically it was about the back third of the bump stop removed. Mine seems to only use the front third of the bump stop, I don't know if that is typical of LC/J's. I haven't had any problems with it so far but time will tell if it was a good idea or not.

If you have a close look at the photo of the yellow LJ with this mod you will see the bump stop is completely removed.

 

 

 

I was told better to swap stubb axles left to right etc and put calipers at front.

I looked at doing this as well but come to the conclusion there was no way this was going to work on the LJ. It appeared the caliper wouldn't clear the steering arm from memory.

 

The machined down rotors and HQ brakes wasn't as straightforward of swap as I what I read it to be so be prepared to do some cutting.

 

Sorry for the two posts, apparently I don't have permission to edit my post.


Edited by hotmetal1000, 10 August 2020 - 05:16 PM.


#8 rexy

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Posted 10 August 2020 - 06:17 PM

I have two versions of this mod.

 

1. CRS drop spindles with P76 discs and “shitty” alloy LX calipers. Calipers on rear.  Bump stop intact.

 

2. Standard LJ stub axles with milled HQ discs and big girlock alloy calipers on rear. Bump stop altered.

 

Version 1 seems to allow the caliper to sit rotated further rearward which probably allows better clearance. The LX calipers are a lot smaller than the girlocks.



#9 Bluelc70

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Posted 10 August 2020 - 07:21 PM

Does anyone have photos of what the bump stop lools like once trimmed down? I have searched through every single thread and cant find any info or photos of the bump stop?

Does the hoppers stoppers kit or the wilwood brake kit have the bum stop clearence issue aswell?

Can the upper bump stop be completley removed like on that yellow car and have the bump stop rubbers installed over the shocker shaft like on modern cars?

#10 Bluelc70

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Posted 16 August 2020 - 10:21 AM

Does anyone have photos of a trimmee upper bump stop mount?

Edited by Bluelc70, 16 August 2020 - 10:24 AM.


#11 RallyRed

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Posted 16 August 2020 - 07:36 PM

Hi mate, I have a pic somewhere...will look tomorrow

#12 RallyRed

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Posted 18 August 2020 - 09:42 PM

.

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#13 Lc69

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Posted 18 August 2020 - 10:19 PM

I have the hopper stopper kit on mine, no issues.
Pictures posted on here.

Does anyone have photos of what the bump stop lools like once trimmed down? I have searched through every single thread and cant find any info or photos of the bump stop?
Does the hoppers stoppers kit or the wilwood brake kit have the bum stop clearence issue aswell?
Can the upper bump stop be completley removed like on that yellow car and have the bump stop rubbers installed over the shocker shaft like on modern cars?



#14 Bluelc70

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Posted 19 August 2020 - 08:57 PM

.


Thanks mate, from that angle it looks like you trimmed the whole upper bump stop mount off?

#15 RallyRed

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Posted 19 August 2020 - 09:51 PM

Not mine..but yes, all gone.

#16 jd lj

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Posted 22 August 2020 - 08:49 AM

Have you considered using Volvo 240 calipers and BMW ventilated discs like what the nc race guys use? There's no need to trim bump stops then but you will have to modify the stub axles (redrill and tap).

#17 Bluelc70

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Posted 11 September 2020 - 07:49 PM

Ok so i have completed the hq brake upgrade.
I have trimmed the back side of the bumo stop, there is still plenty of contact area to the rubber bump stop on the lca.

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#18 Bluelc70

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Posted 11 September 2020 - 07:53 PM

I have retained the standard lc stub axles, i had to slightly grind part of the steering arm to clear the caliper.
I habe also had to grind the rear of the stub where the caliper mounts as it has a raised section. I habe replicated what an a9x or hq stub looks like from behind. Now the pbr cast iron calipers sit flat

The rotor was machined 12mm down in total. Originally the hq rotor is 276mm, the new diameter is 264mm. Fits perfect inside the caliper.

Attached Files



#19 Bluelc70

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Posted 11 September 2020 - 07:55 PM

Brake line clears the bump stop. Used new protex hq brake hoses.

I habe not taken it for a drive yet but it all fits without any clearence issues.

Hopefully this info can help someone else wanting to do the same conversion as i have searched almost every post and could not find a clear direction.

Fyi- the kost time consuming part was grinding tje syub axles, if your stubs are removed from the var i would suggest to take them to a machine shop and get them to machine them down. I did it all on the car in a tight space.

Attached Files


Edited by Bluelc70, 11 September 2020 - 07:59 PM.


#20 yel327

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Posted 11 September 2020 - 08:11 PM

You could try using L34 calipers or modifying the HQ ones. Basically it is a top entry hose with a plug in the lower hole. Will dig out a photo for you.

#21 Bluelc70

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Posted 11 September 2020 - 08:14 PM


You could try using L34 calipers or modifying the HQ ones. Basically it is a top entry hose with a plug in the lower hole. Will dig out a photo for you.


These are hq cast iron calipers which have a top entry hose port and the lower port is blocked off from factory. My hose is coming out of the upper port

Edited by Bluelc70, 11 September 2020 - 08:16 PM.


#22 yel327

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Posted 11 September 2020 - 08:37 PM

Yours definitely has bottom entry hose. L34 had this blocked and is machined on the top of the caliper to have the hose on the top. Here is a photo Datto put up on the forum. Same calipers just the extra machining for the top hose. I have photos of the pair I sold last year here somewhere too.

http://www.gmh-toran...alipers-wanted/

I meant it as a possible solution if you have clearance issues with your hose.

Edited by yel327, 11 September 2020 - 08:42 PM.


#23 Bluelc70

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Posted 11 September 2020 - 08:57 PM

Yours definitely has bottom entry hose. L34 had this blocked and is machined on the top of the caliper to have the hose on the top. Here is a photo Datto put up on the forum. Same calipers just the extra machining for the top hose. I have photos of the pair I sold last year here somewhere too.http://www.gmh-toran...alipers-wanted/
I meant it as a possible solution if you have clearance issues with your hose.


Ahh i see now, i have tested different suspension levels and there no current clearence issues, i will keep it in mind if i do encounter clearence issues.
Cheers




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