55 replies to this topic

[neglectedtorana]

If youre going to engineer your car be worth asking the engineer what they want, i think using the Nissan caliper will be easy enough to get engineered as the car it came from was approved for road use

If you choose something not already approved it gets more difficult, i have Wilwood calipers and the engineer brake test was pretty serious

As Rexy mentioned the Hoppers kit is a good option, will work with standard Torana stubs and might even come with an engineering certificate

If you were to go for Hoppers be good to ask them if your wheels will fit first

Hope you find an easy solution you like

[Shiney005]

I actually found all the ones I posted on Cardomain they are still there but they must have compacted all the photos as I can't read the legend on them now when I blow them up. I bought my work PC home as it has a DVD drive on it do I can check my archives from 4 PCs ago.
I should still have the .xls data if I'm lucky.

M@

This deserves a new thread and a sticky.

[yel327]

If youre going to engineer your car be worth asking the engineer what they want, i think using the Nissan caliper will be easy enough to get engineered as the car it came from was approved for road use

If you choose something not already approved it gets more difficult, i have Wilwood calipers and the engineer brake test was pretty serious

As Rexy mentioned the Hoppers kit is a good option, will work with standard Torana stubs and might even come with an engineering certificate

If you were to go for Hoppers be good to ask them if your wheels will fit first

Hope you find an easy solution you like

 

I've had this discussion with my Engineer (NSW) for my HK. He is happy for me to run the Rodtech front end with AUII rotors and calipers, HQ rear drums, HG booster and VT master cylinder as it is all Aussie stuff already. I have to go through braking tests though which costs around $1000. I discussed Wilwood but it was a no go, not approved for Australian road use was the response other than one particular caliper (I think that was the direction at the time, about 18 months ago). I decided it wasn't worth the trouble for a car that will never see hard driving on bendy roads.

[yel327]

I have never had L34 steering arms to try or to see how they differ to the Harrop ones so no. I'm not sure where I would get any either. I was of the understanding they were like the Harrop ones but with the steering stop on them

Is that what you mean by L34 setup?
If you mean the rest of the setup as per which stubs, position of UCA, camber etc, I probably did as I checked many many combos. I didn't bother with some that I could see were going to be really undesirable.

I actually found all the ones I posted on Cardomain they are still there but they must have compacted all the photos as I can't read the legend on them now when I blow them up. I bought my work PC home as it has a DVD drive on it do I can check my archives from 4 PCs ago.
I should still have the .xls data if I'm lucky.

M@

 

I was just interested, I could never find any when I did my original install using the LH type front end and HQ stubs/brakes. I had a full NOS L34 chassis kit minus the engine bits, it had stubs, rotors, calipers, hoses, rear brakes, axles, upper complete control arms (attached to stubs) and front springs. But no steering arms IIRC. I always assumed the front crossmember was the same as it didn't come with it. I don't know why it had upper arms, maybe bushes were different? I didn't use that stuff as I never wanted to waste it on a low-ish model LX hatchback, so I copied it all using standard Holden stuff but used the standard LH steering arms which as I said had significant bump steer.

 

As Laurie says, your research would be great for a sticky thread here if you ever get the motivation and time to put it up.

[UCSLE]

i have a better option than using a commodore rear disc with a torana pattern  if you are interested  ?

 

Will take a little work to fit but you wont need to re drill the rotor every time you get new ones  

[rodomo]

Volvo Dana?

[claysummers]

Volvo is ok if you want a short final drive, though taller gears can be sourced from US.


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[UCSLE]

Volvo Dana?

close  , Volvo / Commodore

 

I haven't finished it yet but all you need is volvo wheel studs ,  a hub centric ring (what you need for a commodore rotor anyway ) and 10mm spacers on the caliper 

 

Volvo rotor and the rest is just commodore stuff

the rotor is almost the same

 

 v1.jpg   248.02K   3 downloads

[rodomo]

[yel327]

I’m using AUII rotors and calipers which I think are 287x28mm and having some clearance issues with 15” rims. The steel 15” RallyeII rims just fit and are hit and miss if they clear depending on the vintage of the rim (some have more steel where the centre is folded to weld to the rim). So I doubt 15” alloys would fit. These need a hub drilled to your stud pattern and would need rotors drilled too and this is what you’ll need for most upgrades.

You don’t need one tonner stubs either, normal Holden ones are identical if you don’t have them. Tonner ones are just treated for the 2660kg GVW, but standard ones are good enough for a fully loaded Caprice so will be overkill on a Torana strength wise.

Also if you are going for a bigger multi piston caliper like I have with the AUII ones the 1” master may need to be changed to a stepped bore one like a VT. They are a bolt on fitment with an adapter like in the following link. Will need some new brake lines from the cylinder to the block
https://www.caeperfo...UNBMDAxLmpwZw==

Edited by yel327, 07 October 2020 - 08:51 AM.

[76lxhatch]

Clearance for 15" wheels can be an issue but some do work. If memory serves Hoppers had a diagram with the crucial dimensions on it, you could use this to see if your wheels will clear? The 1" master is adequate for the AUII calipers but I agree with yel a bigger circuit for the fronts makes a big improvement.

 

Use one of the more rigid model calipers and a good set of pads and the HQ setup can work perfectly well, its not exactly a track day setup but then neither is the Hoppers kit.

[yel327]

Pretty sure you need caliper adapter brackets. You'll be able to buy hubs to go on the HK-WB stubs in Holden pattern, not sure about the rotors.

[yel327]

Hoppers is where I’d start. Mine came with the front end from Rodtech.

[rexy]

You don’t need a hub for the HQ setup. 
The discs bolt straight up to your Torana, HQ or Tonner stubs.

 

There is probably more difference in performance from pad choice than the physicality of either system. Particularly on a predominantly street driven car.

[yel327]

No. A HQ-WB rotor has the hub integral to the rotor. https://www.ebay.com...exoCsTQQAvD_BwE

 

An AUII requires a separate hub: https://www.superche...wE&gclsrc=aw.ds

 

(neither may be the correct rotor, just grabbed pictures of the type).

 

Every increase in rotor diameter gives you a % increase in braking power. But as you say there isn't much difference. The AUII caliper will be superior due to extra piston but as Rexy says, for street use swings and roundabouts. 

[308 Sunbird]

I had HQ discs and HQ PBR cast calipers on my track car toy for years. Worked great with good pads

and air ducts. Only eventually changed to 4 pot calipers because I got sick of squaring up the pads after

every couple of sessions around places like Calder. IMHO I think for cost, reliability and ease of fitment,

you cant beat this combo unless your doing far more track time than normal road use. Hoppers will redrill

HQ rotors (get the slotted ones) to Torana pattern.

[yel327]

No. HQ rotor has an integral hub, you replace the whole thing. Look at the first link I put up. HQ-WB, L34 and A8X are all the same disc/hub.

Talk to Hoppers.

[hotmetal1000]

For HQ undrilled, ill have to find a hub though no? This is what I have found https://automotivesu...au/dba-dba014us

Hubs for HX stub axles are hard to track down, the web is a bit vague. But if there are hubs that come with Hoppers and similar kits, then you would assume they're available from somewhere.

Ah the extra piston may be a critical part, you would assume there is more pad surface then too, maybe the AUII is the better play....ah decisions to make haha

The link you have there, the picture of the rotor isn't of a HQ rotor. It's just a generic pic the website has used.

As yel327 above said The HQ rotor has an integral hub, look at his first link.