16 replies to this topic

[jeffblanco]

Have a look at the complete front clip at Southern Chassis Works in Melbourne.

Tubular arms, viking shockers, wildwood brakes and power steering.

 

 

Regards Mando.

[Bigfella237]

Whatever you do just make sure it comes fully engineered with all the necessary documentation, some of those front ends are "for off road use only".

[axistr]

Johno I have has a bit to do with aftermarket front ends over the years and have found them to be very hit and miss. The big selling point is there is more room for extractors and big sumps, however I have found the opposite. Many owners have had clearance issues engine heights/angles and alignment problems. Most have had to modify them to get them to mount to the original body mounting points.

 

In my opinion I would stick with the original K-frame. For less money you could rebuild the original K-frame with quality upgraded brakes, shocks, springs and bushes. I can help with power steering and supply you with a variable ratio power steering kit for under $3,000 From memory these aftermarket front ends were around $5,500 plus extra for upgraded brakes and power steering. As mentuned above engineering these front ends for road registered vehicles can be a real problem. There is a big miss conception with engineering for motor vehicles. Parts manufactures/parts suppliers will sometimes on request supply an engineers report with the components. This report means nothing and you would be better off taking it with you to the toilet. If the modified vehicle is to be registered for road use it must be passed by an approved licenced  engineer in the registering state for that vehicle, and can only be issued after the components have been fitted and fully tested. The report must include the vin & engine numbers including the compliance plate details and affected ADRs. There is no such thing as a blanket approval engineers report for modifications with brakes, steering, suspension or driveline modifications in Australia.

 

Hope this helps, cheers lenny..    

[axistr]

Original K-frame with power steering.

 

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[yel327]

I have a Rodtech one for my HK. Engineer is happy with it, he was doing a HR recently with a CRS one. Haven’t fitted it yet though, hopefully it fits!

[ls2lxhatch]

This is one way of installing the k-frame.

https://ls2lxhatch.c...gineinstall.htm

 

[Bigfella237]

 ~ Lenny would it be possible to send some information on the power steering you can supply? ~

Jono, there's an entire thread on Lenny's power steering conversions here:

 

http://www.gmh-toran...-steering-kits/

[axistr]

Jono, there's an entire thread on Lenny's power steering conversions here:

 

http://www.gmh-toran...-steering-kits/

 

 

Thanks  Bigfeller

 

Jono I have always installed the engine and transmission from below, very easy and you can put every thing on the engine on the workshop floor so there is less time bending over the bonnet and less chance of damaging any body work. By far the easiest way to go about it. I have never had problems lining up and putting the body the K-frame bolts in. a large screw drive or pry bar generally makes this task easy. I installed the engine in my car (pictures) by my self including hook up under 2 1/2 hours. 

 

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[Lima31]

The hoist makes a difference. I didn't have one or the vertical height to raise the front, so had to crane the engine out before removing the k frame.

[axistr]

Lee, before I installed the hoist I used the engine hoist to lift the front of the car high enough to wheel the K-frame and engine/transmission out. Easier with the hoist but very doable with chassis stands, jack and engine hoist. 

[Lima31]

I know but i still didn't have the height with the crane and leveller, i think the ceiling is something like 2300 mm above floor. The other mistake i also made was putting stands under the rear axle so the pivot point was higher.

I know but i still didn't have the height with the crane, i think the ceiling is something like 2300 mm above floor. The other mistake i also made was putting stands under the rear axle so the pivot point was higher.

[neglectedtorana]

I used an ATV lifter from Supercheap, bout it on sale for $90 many years ago and it was good enough to put the engine in from underneath with the car on jack stands.

i had the engine, gearbox and cross member on it. Upper control arms were on but no springs, stubs lowers etc

 

Also recently used it to take the diff out out and back in and even the drop tank sits nicely on it

 

https://www.superche...0kg/284935.html

[axistr]

G'day Nathan,  5lt VR Club sport engine. Purchased the crank, water pump, alternator and power steering serpentine pulleys from Summit racing, listed for a 350 SBC long water pump. I had to drill the crank pulley mounting bolt holes. Holden have four holes & Chev only have three holes. The water pump and alternator pulleys bolt straight on and line up with the crank.

 

I fitted the power steering pulley to a type 2 Saginaw pump from a Ford BA 6cyl and made the bracket to suit. I may have been able to use the original VR P/S Saginaw pump but didn't come with the engine so didn't bother trying one. The BA pump only cost me $165.00 new and I think suits the updated EFI engine. The A/C compressor is a Sanden which I picked up and modified the original VR mount bracket. All pulleys are 6PK belt drive.