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Exhaust measurement help


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#1 Rockoz

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Posted 13 October 2020 - 02:22 PM

Hi guys and gals.

 

Im doing a non Torana LS1 conversion into Tojo the Tilt Tray.

 

My biggest issue right now is exhaust.

 

Being a Dyna, the problems with clearance are more at the top around the exhaust ports, particularly the rears.

My brother was in the exhaust game, but he has retired and isnt quite as much help as I need.

 

I only have about 60mm clearance between the rear exhaust port and the chassis rail.

 

I someone is doing an LS conversion and have a set of pipes, could I ask that they measure the clearance they require at the rear exhaust port.

 

Hoping someone can help me out.

 

 

Cheers

 

Rob

 



#2 lx308

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Posted 13 October 2020 - 06:29 PM

I'm no help, but shit, that'd be pretty tight to get a pipe in.

#3 dattoman

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Posted 13 October 2020 - 08:05 PM

Maybe oval tube ?

 

https://spintechmuff...toovalchart.jpg

 

https://www.ecsexhau...tainless-s~3576



#4 Bigfella237

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Posted 14 October 2020 - 08:15 AM

Your only hope with an off-the-shelf item *may* be a pair of cast "hugger" headers,but there's no way to know without handing over several hundred bucks and trial fitting them?

 

Something like...

 

Flowtech-11730flt-03a.jpg

 

Which side of the engine is it on, or is it both? The torque side will need some extra clearance too, depending on how rigid your engine mounts are.

 

Is there any way to raise or lower the assembly to get it away from the rail?



#5 myss427

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Posted 14 October 2020 - 09:54 AM

Probably easier to make clearance on the chasis rail?



#6 Rockoz

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Posted 14 October 2020 - 11:52 AM

Ive tried VE cast headers which I managed to get to fit to the head, but it was half a pipe diameter inside the chassis rail.

They were the tightest fit easily obtainable header I could find. The VZ header was bigger again.

The little 4 into 1 shortie block huggers come close, but if they were collected like an L34 header they might fit, but joining in 2 plus two makes them too wide.

 

As for trimming the chassis rail, I could do a millimetre or so, but what is required is too much.

Im in the process of dropping the crossmember 50mm but dont think that will change a great deal.

Will likely just move the tight spot somewhere else.

 

But I did come across a suggestion that pointing the headers up instead of down might cure my problems.

There is plenty of room everywhere else except at the heads.

Will need to install all the shift linkages etc before I try that one.

 

But it may just be the solution.

Not sure what an engineer would think though.

 

 

Cheers

 

Rob



#7 76lxhatch

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Posted 14 October 2020 - 12:08 PM

Why cut the chassis rail when you could cut the headers? There's a middle ground between off the shelf and full custom, plus its great fun cutting up brand new parts.



#8 claysummers

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Posted 14 October 2020 - 12:15 PM

265 hemi six, but I suppose you’ve got that other junk lying around wasting space ;7)


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#9 lx308

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Posted 14 October 2020 - 01:18 PM

265 hemi six?)
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Nah, he's keeping that for his boat.

Makes an excellent mooring. 😂😂

#10 grumpy xu1

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Posted 14 October 2020 - 05:52 PM

265 hemi six, but I suppose you’ve got that other junk lying around wasting space ;7)
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The ls series engines are a great thing actually. Hence why they're so popular.

#11 yel327

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Posted 14 October 2020 - 06:48 PM

Going up like a SBC into early Holden might work, sort of like this idea:

https://www.rodshop....extractors.html

I don’t know what an LS1 in a Dyna is going to be like. Auto or manual? I have seen a lot of different engines tried in these and the only ones that seem to work are long stroke engines with heaps of low rpm torque. LS1’s are not exactly torque monsters at low rpm. When I had my Delta (mostly identical to a Dyna) I bought it with a snotted B diesel. Looked at all sorts of engine conversions, even drove one with a Holden 6 (glad I didn’t make that mistake!). Nothing that was easy made enough torque, so I bought a rusty low kM BJ42 Landcruiser and stole its 3B. Even that was gutless but at least it had bulk torque at 1500rpm which is where it needed it. Was slow as a wet week at speed (like any NA diesel) but pulled like a train off the mark.

#12 claysummers

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Posted 14 October 2020 - 07:14 PM

Nah, he's keeping that for his boat.

Makes an excellent mooring.

A Barra then


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#13 Bigfella237

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Posted 14 October 2020 - 07:17 PM

~ if they were collected like an L34 header they might fit, but joining in 2 plus two makes them too wide. ~


They do exist for an LS engine. I saved this photo from somewhere but stupidly I didn't note what brand etc. they were and I can't bloody find them again now...

 

111318-8lo.jpg



#14 yel327

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Posted 14 October 2020 - 07:52 PM

A SBC fits in this with Ramshorns. So a set of huggers might work?

https://www.gumtree....opytopasteboard

#15 Oversteer

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Posted 15 October 2020 - 01:29 AM

The factory ls headers Tig weld real nice with a 308 rod, easy to cut n shut or join to 304 ss pipe.

 

Dirty mig weld would likely work ok for a fair while if done right.



#16 ls2lxhatch

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Posted 15 October 2020 - 01:38 AM


They do exist for an LS engine. I saved this photo from somewhere but stupidly I didn't note what brand etc. they were and I can't bloody find them again now...

 

111318-8lo.jpg

 

Found using google search by image. LS9 Crate Engine.

https://www.autoblog...9-crate-engine/


Edited by ls2lxhatch, 15 October 2020 - 01:39 AM.


#17 Shiney005

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Posted 15 October 2020 - 09:05 AM

But I did come across a suggestion that pointing the headers up instead of down might cure my problems.

Or try the cast manifolds on the opposite sides to bring the exhaust down the front like some Bedfords.

Attached File  Bedford complete Rochester 2 Jet Small.jpg   429.25K   5 downloads



#18 Rockoz

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Posted 15 October 2020 - 10:00 AM

Have tried them going forward but they hit the crossmember.

 

Its a 5 speed manual with very slow low gears, so I reckon there should be enough grunt for what it will be doing.

A friend had a Daihatsu Delta Tipper years ago with a 202 fitted and it went quite well.

I looked at the possibility of fitting a Barra, but there really isnt the room to do it.

The exhaust would have been easy but I would have likely needed to mount the radiator on the front bumper, then work out how to tilt it as well.

 

 

Im going to drop the front of the engine over the next few days.

Im going to try to get the angle set so that the first section of the tailshaft to the centre bearing is as close to 90 degrees as possible.

That could make a difference of what pipe will fit as it will move the area that is tight on the headers.

 

Didnt think that welding headers would be much of an option.

Will investigate that one a bit further as that might be tidiest looking option.

 

Thanks heaps for the advice and options presented.

 

Cheers

 

Rob



#19 Shiney005

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Posted 15 October 2020 - 11:35 AM

I am sure I saw a youtube video of an LS1 in a small Kia truck about a year ago, but I can't find it now.



#20 lakeside

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Posted 15 October 2020 - 02:23 PM


They do exist for an LS engine. I saved this photo from somewhere but stupidly I didn't note what brand etc. they were and I can't bloody find them again now...

 

111318-8lo.jpg


they are LS7 manifolds 



#21 S pack

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Posted 15 October 2020 - 11:56 PM

I am sure I saw a youtube video of an LS1 in a small Kia truck about a year ago, but I can't find it now.


 


Edited by S pack, 15 October 2020 - 11:56 PM.


#22 Rockoz

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Posted 16 October 2020 - 10:07 AM

Just going by eye those LS7/9 manifolds will foul the crossmember.

But. I think I may have the solution.

I was working on the drivers side only as there were still things to remove on and around the passenger side.

 

I bought a set of shorties that collected around the centre.

I thought that they were symmetrical, but closer inspection shows they have an offset.

I was trying to fit the left on the right it turns out.

Ive got the right side on, and spent yesterday making access for the left.

Have some much welcomed rain today so I wont be getting to it today.

 

I think dropping the engine 10 to 20 mm will solve a few problems.

So I have just cut some 50mm solid to drop the crossmember down.

Think I wore out my new Ryobi drop saw doing it.

It was letting some of its smoke out. 

Hopefully there is enough smoke left in it to do a bit more work.

 

Cheers

 

Rob



#23 Rockoz

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Posted 16 October 2020 - 07:09 PM

I know everyone loves pics, so I took a few today to help put the job in a little bit of context.

 

This is the truck being worked on.

 

Attached File  ttover.jpg   49.95K   2 downloads

 

Not the best shot but gives a bit of an idea of the job.

 

In this shot it sort of shows the limited space at the rear port due to the change in chassis width.

 

Attached File  ttrhs.jpg   51.22K   2 downloads

 

From the rear

 

Attached File  ttside.jpg   41.02K   1 downloads

 

This is what I thought would work easiest until I used the other header.

 

Attached File  tttop.jpg   43.4K   1 downloads

 

This is a teaser of the other project I have been working on.

Sadly not enough though since the truck became the focus.

 

Attached File  peng.jpg   43.34K   1 downloads

 

Not the clearest pic though sadly.

 

 

Cheers 

 

Rob


Edited by Rockoz, 16 October 2020 - 07:09 PM.


#24 yel327

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Posted 16 October 2020 - 07:17 PM

You just reminded me of another reason I gave up on any conversion for my Delta (V90, 1983). Unlike the Dyna version the cab doesn’t tilt on a Delta. It was hard enough getting the B diesel out and the 3B in via the passenger door. There is no way you’d be able to get anything wider or longer through the hole under the passenger seat!

#25 rexy

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Posted 16 October 2020 - 09:55 PM

4 into 1 smoke stacks?

 

Attached File  6E0CFA67-58E2-49E5-9337-C9A7ACFBF1E3.jpeg   88.49K   1 downloads

 

It’s pretty tight in the LJ, but not as squeezy as your fit.

 

Attached File  20E93FA4-373E-45D9-A01B-BBAFF7AED6DB.jpeg   76.05K   1 downloads

 

 






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