389 replies to this topic

[hawk]

Thanks Heath so are you haha.

I believe they do have the shank.

Anyway RWC was done and I failed on 3 things.

The hose from the rocker cover to air cleaner not being there.
Clutch pedal sitting too high.
Wheels need hub rings.

Already fixed the first 2. Going to put stock steel wheels back on to get the pass.

[stealthxu1]

shoulda just drove it the way you got it

[hawk]

If I did that it would still have bent and cracked rails with rooted suspension.

Plus auto is boring.

[rodomo]

Already fixed the first 2. Going to put stock steel wheels back on to get the pass.

 

Getting there! 

[hawk]

I have the original Garden State, green and white number plates off the car and they aren't too faded. Will I have any issues using them when registering the car?

[Heath]

I'd have guessed you may need to buy 'POP' plates to get the combo you want, in which case they'll give you white on black plates, and then you can go home and put the garden state ones (matching numbers & letters obviously) on without telling anyone. Call them first without telling them your details or the plate combo and ask.

 

I may be totally wrong. But standard issue plates that aren't in your name? I don't think you can just say "I want to use these". They might snatch them out of your hand and want to destroy them because they're old... haha. Err on the side of caution.

[hawk]

Yeah no luck with the old plates, the combo is now taken.

Anyway, quick update.

The UC is registered as of yesterday.

Thanks all for the advice and encouragement. It's been a big 12 months on the car and it's the biggest project I've ever undertaken on my own to completion.

It will continue to evolve and get upgraded over time.

There is a few things to do still.

Shifter for the 4 speed is very rattly and needs a rebuild.
New alternator is only charging at 12.6 volts which seems a little low.
I want to paint the grill gloss black.
Need to repair the quarters and paint them where the side strips were removed.

I also have an R31 skyline diff that may end up in the car.
It sits ok at 100kmh but won't be much good over that in its current form.

I'll get some more pics up soon.

Just going to drive it and enjoy for a while. it will see daily driver duties at times when the weather is nice too.

[Statler]

Congrats. 

[rodomo]

[claysummers]

Great stuff Steve. Enjoy.


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[LXCHEV]

Congrats on the rego, massive well done to you mate!

[RIM-010]

Rego! Unreal mate, congratulations.

[Heath]

So... a few weeks on, what's the latest?

 

Many successful k's under the belt so far?

[hawk]

Yeah as many as I can get when the weather is good. went to a couple of small meets last Friday.

Looking forward to many more.

It's running pretty well.

[mr5000]

Congrats on rego was a good blast from the past to see you out at monbulk car show


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[hawk]

It was good to see you out and about too.

Anyway, I finally got around to adding some photos below.

Car has been running well although the diff is a little noisy.
Few things to do although I'm in no rush now.
- shifter rattles a lot.
- diff noise.
- add a fuel filter
- change over to an electronic dizzy

Probably a few other things but they're the main ones for now.

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[hawk]

Still out enjoying the car. Did my first Motorkhana event on the weekend. Drove almost 2 hours there, competed, then drove home.

Finished overall 3rd in my class only having been beaten by 2 BMW'S. Got in front of all the Jap cars in the class so was pretty happy about that.

I feel like the main thing letting the car down was the open diff. It took a lot to get it around without the back end sliding a bit.

Few things I want to get done before the next time I go to a similar event. Mainly sorting out the diff. Suffered a bit of oil starvation early on and had to overfill the motor by a out a litre to stop it happening.

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[Heath]

Thrilled to see out giving this a good flogging. Must feel unreal after all your efforts.

Nice little grass-roots line up of cars there. Accessible motorsport is certainly the go.

 

As you've discovered the moment you start doing any tarmac competition work with a Torana, the sump can be a problem. Sometimes on road tyres you can just get away with it, but if you're gripping up in a motorkhana well, they do seem to generate a lot of cornering force.

The good news is, a man with your skillset can easily modify/extend a standard sump to have a little "trap-door" set-up, or even some static baffling.
The bad news is... it's a motor out job to change it! Hahaha.

And open diffs... well, of course you already knew how much of a weak point of the package the diff is on a Torana.

[rodomo]

. Suffered a bit of oil starvation early on and had to overfill the motor by a out a litre to stop it happening.

 

I used to run about 6.5 litres in the Grease slapper for the same reason.

I measured from the bottom of the conrods at bottom dead center to the sump rail and again from the sump rail to the bottom to the bottom of the pan to get that figure. Obviously with the sump off.

 

[MRLXSS]

Awesome to see mate!

[hawk]

Thanks Guys.

I'll modify the sump eventually, Until then I doubt it will see much hard driving in that sort of environment.

I have an R31 diff that I plan to use eventually. it will get a tru trac centre. Talking of grip, I had none. I ran the 13 inch stockies on the back to try and save the diff. It would have been an expensive tow home otherwise.

I spent the last couple of nights sorting out a carb and manifold swap. Long story short, the poor man pays twice. I bought a second hand manifold and 350 holley. The manifold was ok but the carb was buggered to the point where I would have needed a second one for spares.

Picked up a new one today and got it fitted. The accelerator cable bracket needs to be modified more for a better fit and the cable itself needs to be replaced.

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Anyway, next up will probably be an electronic dizzy, cam and lifters. I do plan on getting the head done eventually, but it can wait for now.
What's a nice cam that will suit the holley?

[hawk]

So bit of an Update.

Things are moving slowly lately due to moving house.

After a lot of issues with the dash, gauges and lights etc. I bit the bullet and bought a sports dash.
Speedo is spot on where it was 10klms out on the olddash, I now have a working tacho, clock and battery voltage gauge.

On the down side the oil pressure gauge looks to be no good as it goes straight to the right even when not connected to the sensor.

The fuel gauge is still an issue, it looks like the sender is the issue and no one makes replacements.

Temp gauge isn't working although I believe it's a sensor issue and not an issue with the dash.

Bought a oil pressure sender supposed to fit a 202 but the thread is M10 and doesn't fit the block. Does anyone know the correct number for it? I believe they may have given me the wrong sender.

Anything I'm missing on the oil pressure gauge going straight to the right?

Regardless, I have started making a new engine bay loom as mine is buggered. Only things I need to know is the wire size for the positive link, I have 4mm wire, just not game to cut the current loom to check until I'm ready to fit the new one.

The other question is what to do about the fusible link?

In other news, I have an R31 skyline diff ready to have mounts put on it although tempted to run a trutrac and billet axles in the STD diff.

Also have a 5 speed box lined up.

[Rockoz]

If the oil pressure gauge goes straight to the right then it is likely that there is a wiring issue.

There would be a short to earth somewhere making it do that.

The sender may just be a modern equivalent of the one needed. Adaptors can be bought at places like Supercheap.

But the sender needs to have the right resistance range for the gauge.

As for your temp sender, I have seen the right ones advertised somewhere. Rares maybe.

Again you need the right sender for the gauge.

You can check the fuel gauge by shorting the sender wire to earth.

Best to have someone watching the gauge when you do it so you dont risk letting the smoke out of anything.

If you find it is the fuel sender, quite often they are repairable.

Sometimes the float gets a leak and sinks.

Other times it is just lots of corrosion on the resistance wire and some careful cleaning can fix that.

 

Cheers

 

Rob

[hawk]

Thanks, I guess I'll have to check it all. been doing a lot of reading on the subject and believe I can test the gauge by running different resistors from the sender wire at the tank to earth to simulate different fuel levels. Just need to work out what values.

I will check the voltage reg is good on the new dash cluster too.

Any idea on wire size for the 12V link in the bay, and regarding what to do with the fusible link?

[Potta]

Good to see you've got her on the road and enjoying a Torana again mate.

 

I remember when you sold the old one I tried to stop you but sometimes you gotta do what you've gotta do and look at you go now.