24 replies to this topic

[yel327]

Not being a Ford person I have never bothered working this out so thought I’d ask.

Given the $ is currently favourable, looking at buying a whole Moser, Currie or Strange 9” centre from the US.

I know what I want in splines, trutrac and ratio. But all the yoke variations confuse me. 1310, 1330 etc.

Setting it up with an original XC 3:1 LSD centre, so whatever yoke it has I’d want on the new one.

Help?

[Bigfella237]

The numbers refer to the size of the uni joint. Pretty sure they are Hardy Spicer part numbers but don't quote me on that.

 

I believe 1310 is the same as a standard Holden V8 uni, whereas 1330 was the same as the TH400 and tonner tailshafts got, and a 1350 is bigger again.

 

I don't have the specs at hand for the others but my notes say the 1350 uni measures 3.625 inches wide in both directions, and all 4 bearing caps are 1.187 inch diameter.

 

Let me know if you can't find the specs on the others and I'll keep digging...

[yel327]

Thanks mate. I’ll measure the XC diff yoke and see what it is.

[Bigfella237]

Some more info from: https://www.dennysdr...ts_by_size.html

 

1310 series are 3.219 inches wide in both directions across bearing caps, usually all 4 bearing caps are 1.062 inch diameter but some FORD applications can have 2 larger bearing caps 1.125 inch diameter where it is connected to a u-bolt style pinion yoke.

 

1310 series is recommended for applications up to 500 HP

 

1330 series are 3.625 inches wide in both directions across bearing caps, usually all 4 bearing caps are 1.062 inch diameter but some FORD applications can have 2 larger bearing caps 1.125 inch diameter where it is connected to a u-bolt style pinion yoke.

 

1330 series is recommended for applications up to 700 HP

 

Bearing caps on all 3 series joints suit outside snap rings.

Edited by Bigfella237, 11 December 2020 - 02:29 PM.

[Bigfella237]

So to sum up:

 

The 1330 & 1350 are the same width (3.625") but the 1310 is smaller (3.219").

 

And the 1310 & 1330 have the same diameter bearing caps (1.062"), but the 1350 has larger caps (1.187").

[Hatchback13]

Hi, hope you don’t mind if I join in, I don’t have the technical know how to help but have a couple of related questions plz. If you didn’t have your tail shaft made already what would be the best way to go? And also where are you looking to buy from as I’m going to be looking soon also, along with 3 other people I know of. Cheers

[yel327]

I was going to get one done locally at Gibsons:

http://www.gibsondriveshaft.com.au/

They will tell me what measurements to make. Was planning on using a 1 tonner shaft cut down, I have a few of them. One is one that has been modified to suit (for some stupid reason) a single rail into a 1-tonner so it might be able to be modded without sacrificing a good one. But will be guided by Gibsons if that is OK or new tube is better.
Will use a 1-tonner (HT-HG GTS350) yoke and whatever suits the 9” at the other end.

[RallyRed]

Used Gibsons a few times, was actually out there this arvo....they are the real deal for this stuff . ( I guess you already know that Yel, more for other's info )

[Hatchback13]

Great info, should have also said where are you looking at for your 9” centre? Cheers

[yel327]

Jegs, Summit will give you idea of pricing as they you freight pricing. Will have 10% GST on it too.
Looking directly too from Moser, Strange and Currie.

I reckon about $2200 plus $300 freight plus $250 GST.

Although I may be able to pick something up locally, like this:
https://www.ebay.com...-EAAOSw7TZeuxR7

Edited by yel327, 11 December 2020 - 06:42 PM.

[Hatchback13]

Cool, the local one seams like a fair price, I’m having my housing and axles made locally by cds engineering, are you running adjustable control arms? Do you have a good place to buy those by any chance? Looks like I’ve got some more internet time coming up 😜 looking at your advice. Sorry bombarding your thread. Cheers

[yel327]

All good. This is going in a HK GTS coupe so leaf springs. Rodtech built my housing and supplied Currie axles.

[Bigfella237]

Before you jump in and order a tailshaft, Brad, you need to have just about everything else in place first, including having all your swing-arm geometry locked-in and knowing exactly what rear tyres you'll be running.

 

Any good driveshaft manufacturer will want to run some calculations to determine your critical driveshaft speed so they can advise what size and material the shaft will need to be.

 

This is especially important if running very low diff gears (say 3.55 and below) and/or smaller overall diameter tyres and/or you plan on doing 160mph down Conrod Straight!

[Hatchback13]

Thanks for the advice, I’m being led by someone with much more knowledge than me haha, but I’m trying to learn more, that’s why I enjoy this forum. I can also leave him alone a bit, feel like I badger the hell out of him sometimes.
I’ve set up my wheels and tyres in place, going for diff housing next with axles and hopefully swing arms at the same time. Trying to chip away at it financially and time wise. Cheers
And yes 160 down conrod straight sounds awesome. 😎

Edited by Hatchback13, 11 December 2020 - 08:31 PM.

[Hatchback13]

Rodtech sounds like they make some good parts, I have a few on the list. Cheers

[yel327]

Yes. I bought one of these for my HK:
http://rodtech.com.a...?product_id=649
Also allows me to run a HQ style sump and Corvette 2.5” Ramshorns so I don’t have the noise and hassle of extractors.

Bought one of these Aussie made setups too:

https://wheelswithin...mp-black-finish

[Hatchback13]

Very nice, looks like awesome Aussie products there, trying to keep my money in Australia now too. I got Aussie made Simmons so far. Cheers

[yel327]

The design and fabrication of them is all Aussie. There is probably some imported bits amongst it all but hard to do full Aussie all the time.

[myss427]

Yes. I bought one of these for my HK:
http://rodtech.com.a...?product_id=649
Also allows me to run a HQ style sump and Corvette 2.5” Ramshorns so I don’t have the noise and hassle of extractors.

Bought one of these Aussie made setups too:

https://wheelswithin...mp-black-finish

 

My brother has the Rodtech front ends in his HG, drives beautiful with the power steering and has great breaks now, turned it from a clunker to a smooth easy driver.

[yel327]

Good to hear. Did he run the Rodtech sway bar too? I haven’t bought that yet. I also bought the AUII brake upgrade not the standard XF size, and running HQ-WB rear drums, HG disc booster and VT master cylinder.
The only down side of the Rodtech is the maximum ride height is lowered 20mm from standard which is too low for me, but it’s the best I can do. With alloy heads, intake and water pump plus electric fans hopefully it loses about 35kg over the front axle and gains 5-10mm of that drop in the front.

[myss427]

He has the sway bar, and loves lowered cars, its not too low, tyre just under the guard at the front. Can you get it lower with the coil overs? He has alloy heads etc but 5 core copper brass radiator.

Edited by myss427, 14 December 2020 - 01:20 PM.

[yel327]

He has the sway bar, and loves lowered cars, its not too low, tyre just under the guard at the front. Can you get it lower with the coil overs? He has alloy heads etc but 5 core copper brass radiator.

 

I don't like tyres up in the guard, look silly to me. I like factory ride height, but if I can fit my hand on top of the tyre and not touch the guard with the back of my hand I can live with that. I am only running 205/60/15 tyres though on 6" rims. Yes you can lower it much more with the coil overs, but to me lowered cars are stupid. I've had them before and they are a pain in the @rse, useless in most situations. Hard to get on and off trailers and/or hoists, painful to drive on the road etc. I want this to be a car I can drive anywhere, not worry about speed bumps or gutters etc. Its why it is getting EFI, aircon, power steer, serpentine pulley setup, Trutrac centre, sensible wheels/tyres and V2 CV8 seats plus modern brakes. I needs to be able to be driven anywhere at any time. Basically a car I can drive to Mebourne or Brisbane and not be a chore. 

 

I have a couple of 5 core brass radiators here from HT-HQ, but they are so damn heavy so I reckon I'll buy a PWR alloy one with fans already built to it with fabricated shroud. That should save another 10kg or more!

[yel327]

Some more info from: https://www.dennysdr...ts_by_size.html

 

1310 series are 3.219 inches wide in both directions across bearing caps, usually all 4 bearing caps are 1.062 inch diameter but some FORD applications can have 2 larger bearing caps 1.125 inch diameter where it is connected to a u-bolt style pinion yoke.

 

1310 series is recommended for applications up to 500 HP

 

1330 series are 3.625 inches wide in both directions across bearing caps, usually all 4 bearing caps are 1.062 inch diameter but some FORD applications can have 2 larger bearing caps 1.125 inch diameter where it is connected to a u-bolt style pinion yoke.

 

1330 series is recommended for applications up to 700 HP

 

Bearing caps on all 3 series joints suit outside snap rings.

 

Here is the yoke I have:

 

 yoke.JPG   152.12K   2 downloads

 

It measures between the flats at the ends of where the cups go as a 1310 uni, close to 3.219" wide. Cups are hard to measure but I think they are 1.125", so a 1310 uni is no good to me as my tailshaft will have 1.125" cups as well. Might have to talk to the tailshaft builder and get them to get it right and supply the right Uni joints. The front will be RUJ2500 by the looks as it will be standard 1-tonner.

[Bigfella237]

Looking again at the Denny's website they list a part number "1310 Ford" which has the two odd sized caps, but... If you're replacing the diff yoke anyway why not just buy a 1310 yoke and run a standard 1310 uni?

 

Come to think of it, if getting a tailshaft custom made you could get one of the bigger diff yokes and run a bigger uni as well if you wanted?

 

Seems a bit silly to me to do a 9" conversion and still restrict yourself to the smaller uni joint. At this stage you could step up to a bigger size and it'd cost you bugger all extra.

[yel327]

I'm using this LSD 9" for a while, to sort the car out and get it all Engineered. The new one will go in later when I re-vamp the whole driveline. This is a 1310BC yoke by the looks, and this axis will have 1 1/8" cups, but the other axis (the tailshaft axis) won't work as it won't have 1 1/16" cups like the 1310BC uni, it will have 1 1/8". So I just need a uni that suits the 1310 yoke but has 1 1/8" on the other axis. It states they are good for 500hp. I'm only running a EFI 377 with hydraulic roller, don't expect more than 400hp.

 

The 1310BC looks to be made with 1 1/8" on the diff flange so that the U-bolts don't distort the cup.

 

The other alternative I guess is to get this LSD 9" changed over to a 1350 but might be overkill when the other end will be standard 1-tonner.