20 replies to this topic

[70 XU-1]

Hi everyone, is there a website or forum member who can identify whether an engine number is original to the car? I have a recent purchase with all tags and numbers and will eventually get a GMH one but just thought someone might know another way to do it? The prefix is period correct but the guy I bought off wasn’t sure whether it was the original donk. Thanks for any help

[yel327]

What vehicle?

[70 XU-1]

Oh yeah sorry! SS Hatch. 

[Ice]

Chuck all the tag details here someone will tell you the info you want 

[70 XU-1]

I was a bit concerned doing it in a public forum. There seems to be a lot of concern over people using tag deets for nefarious purposes? 

[yel327]

If you send me the PSN (last bit of the VIN starting with J) and the engine number it has now I’ll see what I can get for you.

[70 XU-1]

Hi yel327 - tried to message but error came up saying you couldn’t receive any more messages? 

[Ice]

Empty ya box Byron i tried as well not long ago  

[S pack]

Hi yel327 - tried to message but error came up saying you couldn’t receive any more messages? 

If you want you can PM the numbers to me and I will text them to Byron's mobile for you.
 

[70 XU-1]

If you want you can PM the numbers to me and I will text them to Byron's mobile for you.
 

Awesome thanks SPac - this certainly is a team sport! 

[70 XU-1]

Awesome thanks SPac - this certainly is a team sport! 

Mright be a more global issue as I got the same message from your PM ?

unless it’s me - I’m the common denominator!

[S pack]

Mright be a more global issue as I got the same message from your PM ?

unless it’s me - I’m the common denominator!

Try again. Just clear some space. Found my inbox was also full
 

[yel327]

Just got that PSN checked. It’s an SS optioned with 4.2 and auto and LSD. The original engine number is well over 1000 numbers lower than the one in it now, almost 1500 numbers. These will be Torana 4.2, 5.0L engines plus 6cyl manuals. So given your original engine is gone, at rebuild time you might as well build a 5.0L for it, won’t make any difference to value of the car.

[70 XU-1]

Just got that PSN checked. It’s an SS optioned with 4.2 and auto and LSD. The original engine number is well over 1000 numbers lower than the one in it now, almost 1500 numbers. These will be Torana 4.2, 5.0L engines plus 6cyl manuals. So given your original engine is gone, at rebuild time you might as well build a 5.0L for it, won’t make any difference to value of the car.

Thanks Yel327 and SPac, really appreciated the help. But of a bummer it’s not the original, but hey I’m still stoked to have the car as it’s a very clean minimal rust car so the resto should be fairly straight forward.  
 

I’ve been thinking of going the 253 with some aftermarket fuel injection. I’m not after big power, just a sweet note (a little power would be nice of course) and I’m just assuming fuel economy will be much better with the little V8? Am I wrong about that?  Although it won’t be a daily driver I certainly drive my cars every opportunity I get and I had a pretty strong 308 in a HQ in the eighties and my wallet is still smoking!

but regarding 253 or 308 If you had any thoughts on this I’d be keen to hear them? I haven’t had any experience with Holden V8’s since the eighties and find it a whole new world with people talking later model fuel injected 5.0’s and the need to run pollution gear etc. I’m in Qld, not sure if our laws are as tight as other places? My car is a June 1976 so just before tighter pollution ADR I think. 
 

Also how would you go about getting support, advice and parts wanted here on the site? Should I just start a fresh thread like this and do updates?  

[yel327]

If you want a more modern and reliable EFI engine, and as you have a pre-ADR27A car (just check it doesn't show 27A on the ADR plate) it is very easy. Try and find a red 308 block, won't be that hard especially if you are happy with TH pattern gearbox. And get hold of an injected 5litre from a VN to VSIII. Rebuild it using the red 308 block and no need for any pollution equipment other than a canister and basic ADR27 stuff like sealed fuel tank, sealed engine (all of which you already have). The blocks are basically the same. It'll bolt in exactly where your 4.2 sits now, probably more hassle sorting out a gearbox. If it was me I'd use the 4L60 or 4L60E that comes with the engine but a TH350 fits, Trimatic will work if you use a manual pattern 308 block. If you are looking towards a manual others here will tell you what fits easily, just will cost a bomb compared to an auto.

 

An injected 5.0L will be as economical as your carbied 253 especially using the over-drive 4L60/60E. 4th gear on one of these with a 3.55 rear axle is equivalent to a 3spd auto with 2.5 rear axle.

 

Having said all that, if you are going to Engineer it for a 9" or similar and 4L60/60E it isn't hard to make a complete EFI 5litre with 1990's block comply, just needs cats really.

 

Either way you can also buy off the shelf engine harness, throttle cable, even extractors to fit the Torana with Torana mounts and EFI heads. The standard cast iron VR-VS exhaust manifolds fit easily in a Holden, so should work with a Torana too. When I did it in a HZ we used a V6 flange plate on one side as it was close to the sump (which is the same sump in a Torana). My mate used the stainless VN-VP headers which worked too.

[70 XU-1]

So it sounds like a 308 is the go. IThe 253 was attractive because I have is rebuilt one. I do want to go manual as the guards are already cut so it will be an A9X type clone. So the 308 probably fits that bill too. I was thinking super T10 - any problems with the new ones you know of? Im open to anyone chiming in on this! Also Is a nine inch still the simplest cheapest option fior a strong diff/ I’d love to hear from someone who’s done all this as I’m still a family man and trying to do it on a budget. Thankfully I’m a motor painter and brother is a beater so we have that part covered. I’m only thinking cruiser not thrasher but I’m also realistic about adrenaline so I don’t think the banjo will suffice.

[70 XU-1]

PS Thanks for the insight and the plate only has 27 on it. No 27A

[yel327]

If you have a rebuilt 253, use it. Spend the money on the gearbox and diff keeping in mind with everything you do (exhaust, radiator etc) that you want to go for a 5.0L later.

 

Others here will help you better with a manual conversion. For your purposes a T5 would probably be better, but again it'll need to be a certain box to fit and others will help. Nothing wrong with Super T10 or Muncie, but only 4spds and will probably cost similar to a T5. You are probably more likely to find a used T5 (or even Supra) conversion as well.

 

9" is probably the easy choice, but there are other conversions around that will do the same job for you like a Borg Warner. Sort out what you want to do with brakes before moving on a diff though.

[70 XU-1]

Great advice I think yella. The 5 speed makes sense as long as I don’t have to butcher the trans hump. I’ve heard a VN V8 diff could be the go with using two short axles and only having to shorten one side? But I’d imagine they aren’t too common anymore anyway. I’ve been looking at hoppers stoppers for a HQ upgrade - both for stopping and so I can run GTS rims. I have a HQ set but would like to widen them and get the offsets right while I’m at it. Would like to achieve 8’s & 10’s if Qld and the car will allow it. I’d be confident the guards would be clear, not sure about RTA expectations yet. Would you have a radiator recommendation? 

[FLY_AGAIN_XU-1]

 The prefix is period correct 

 

 

HR######   ?

 

Your car being a June 1976 build.

 

What is the cast date of the block ?

[70 XU-1]

I’ll have to check it next time I’m home. I just looked up a list of Holden block numbering’s. Think it was on unique cars? Something like that.