31 replies to this topic

[MFM]

Went for a drive today (XU1), pulled up at lights and revs crept up to 1800rmp (foot on brake pedal). Took my foot off the brake pedal and they went down to 1000. Didn't think too much of it so kept driving and it felt like I had no boost as car was difficult to pull up. Checked all vacuum hoses all good. Booster has never been overhauled so I guess these are the symptoms of a stuffed booster?

Any tricks to having this reconditioned. Someone said there is some sort of diaphragm (or 2) inside. Can the existing diaphragm be reconditioned? Are they easy to remove and take to a brake place? Any advice appreciated as I'm not as handy as most of you are at doing my own mechanical stuff.

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[S pack]

Easy as to remove the booster. Undo 6 nuts and remove a G clip and one clevis pin.

Edited by S pack, 23 December 2020 - 12:26 PM.

[I'm a Red Motor fiend]

I literally cracked one open just this morning to reco.
Like my dodgey ass tool I slapped together in 20 mins?
Made it like this so I could undo the nuts on the rods till the internal spring was no longer compressed.

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[MFM]

Do they still sell whatever parts I need to fix this? I assume the average brake repair shop know what they are doing?

[S pack]

I would just take it to a place that specialises in overhauling brake boosters. Your local brake shop is more than likely going to send it off to be done and then whack their profit on top.

[lj72bathurst]

Make sure they don’t swap the booster cover with your numbers for a different one.

[grumpy xu1]

Bhss or whatever they are will be good for you Mark, i can't remember if stop master's do them. Or you have hydroboost. Possibly a brake & clutch outlet. You may to take it in, so they can make sure they have the correct diaphragm and seals. Someone also makes a correct looking check valve again now, sorry i can't remember who it is though.

[yel327]

Stopmaster used to do them, however last one I took in (a HG one for my HK) Tyron sent it off to Sydney to get done as they were flat out.

[MFM]

Ok thanks. I can't seem find anyone on the Gold Coast that I truly trust to work on my car. One of the many downfalls of owning a rare classic car I guess. No doubt they exist just need to find them. All the old school mechanics that know these cars are either dead or retired.

[grumpy xu1]

Like Dave said, pull it off yourself & drop it in for the restoration. Pick back up & re fit it yourself.

[jpxu1]

"Someone also makes a correct looking check valve again now, sorry i can't remember who it is though."

 

You'll find them on evilPay for $25-00 from memory.

Take yours off before you get it done - not hard to check if it still works - and whoever does the reco may swap it out for a crappy aftermarket one.

 

JPXU1

Edited by jpxu1, 23 December 2020 - 08:52 PM.

[claysummers]

I’m not familiar with the specific model of booster but would it be a split diaphragm? Not hard to replace yourself if you can source one. I’ve only played with the remote boosters do possibly these are trickier?


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[grumpy xu1]

There is quite a bit of stored energy in the booster springs, & if you DON'T have anyone else to help you who has done 1 before, can we please NOT say oh they're not hard to do ! We don't need an accident over some advice, especially seems Mark said he's not super strong in mechanical skills. The first 1 i did with someone experienced, who was a pretty wild bloke, his advice was, be very careful, these things can take your f - king head off ! I will say that we used some big tools, carefully. Looks like a new job Mark. Those type of shops should steer you in the right direction. I'm going to say around $300.

New year job i meant.

[grumpy xu1]

& it has 2 diaphragm's, hence why they where called a dual diaphragm booster.

[S pack]

BHSS-TBS https://bhss.com.au/...rakes-boosters/ Give them a call and have a chat about your special classic car, your needs and your concerns.

[claysummers]

There is quite a bit of stored energy in the booster springs, & if you DON'T have anyone else to help you who has done 1 before, can we please NOT say oh they're not hard to do ! We don't need an accident over some advice, especially seems Mark said he's not super strong in mechanical skills. The first 1 i did with someone experienced, who was a pretty wild bloke, his advice was, be very careful, these things can take your f - king head off ! I will say that we used some big tools, carefully. Looks like a new job Mark. Those type of shops should steer you in the right direction. I'm going to say around $300.

New year job i meant.

Fair enough. Different story to the vh40 vh44 then.

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[I'm a Red Motor fiend]

Workshop manual says special tool required due to the compressed spring hence why I built my slapstick tool above.
To be honest, when I cracked it there was no where near as much energy in the spring as I expected.
Could have held it by hand but better to be safe.
Pay someone to do it if your not handy tho.....

[I'm a Red Motor fiend]

At a guess, start at $600 for a shop to do it. Parts alone will be $300.

[dattoman]

[yel327]

My HG booster was about $395 less than a year ago. CU1 would cost the same as it is almost the same thing.

[MFM]

Just e mailed the mob in Capalaba (Brisbane) although they won't get it for awhile. I don't care how much provided they do it properly and it comes back with looking exactly the same externally and not painted. Got to try and keep these things looking unmolested. I remember when I first got this car the front caliper pistons were seized so I took them off and to a brake joint and I told the proprietor not to bead blast the calipers and not to paint them because of the factory yellow dollop on the calipers. He looked at me like I was weird. Most People do not understand this obsession.

[rexy]

Ok thanks. I can't seem find anyone on the Gold Coast that I truly trust to work on my car. One of the many downfalls of owning a rare classic car I guess. No doubt they exist just need to find them. All the old school mechanics that know these cars are either dead or retired.

Got any handy mates?

[MFM]

No handy mates either. all old and disinterested in playing with cars anymore

[MFM]

Found a place here on the gold coast. Does it matter what brand of diaphragm/s are used or are they all generic these days. I see PBR are still around, should I be sourcing from PBR or just let the brake shop put whatever they think in?

[S pack]

I would use PBR parts if they are available.