9 replies to this topic

[Cook]

Hi all.  I have a reco WB dual booster and P7953 master cylinder.  I have stuffed up and had the lines double flared and whilst the front lines seem to seat ok the rear line fitting bottoms out before the flare seats.

 

My question is can I buy a replacement master cylinder that will take double flared lines and will bolt straight up? Wilwood seem to have a few options but I'm no expert and not sure if these are direct replacements.  I understand that this may be costly but, the alternative is pulling out the lines and remaking them which I am obviously trying to avoid

Is there an adapter that would bolt up to the master and take the double flares?

Are there any other "quick fixes.  No way I can re-flare the lines as they sit and I'm not sure if they should be single or bubble flare. Since that photo was taken the engine and all bolt-ons have been assembled.

 

Help and thanks as always. Cheers Ron

Attached Files

•  Brake Line new2.jpg   88.34K   7 downloads

[dron]

Hi

      Just checked my spair (new) wb master, It needs a "ball" flair on all pipes.

 

     Best just reflair them all if you want reliable brakes.  Back when we ran valves in the outlet for drum brakes i think there was a brass incert that went into the port for the rear brakes, Dont rember if it would help or not, The last time i worked with this valve was to remove it on an old drum to disk conversion a lot of years ago.

[Cook]

Thanks Darren, thought that was the case re "ball" flares.  Given where I am at, I'm hoping there is other options other than having to effectively re-do the lines, as you can see from the pic re-flaring itself isn't going to happen.  Cheers Ron

Attached Files

•  Engine Bay Pic1.jpg   190.84K   7 downloads

[neglectedtorana]

Where do the lines go after disappearing from view in the first pic?

Could you make a join further down the line and make a new suitably flared top piece? Just an idea,

 

Is there a good brake place near you that you could ring for ideas or to see if there is an adapter?

If you were in Sydney I would suggest calling Warringah brakes or a Pirtek hydraulic shop, hope you find a simple solution

[yel327]

Dr Terry keeps adapters in stock afaik.

[Cook]

Hi and thanks Tom.  The first line runs to the drivers side front brake.  The second one runs just under the engine bay lip to the passenger side and obviously the rear runs to the rear lol. Not sure that joins in brake lines are legal and/or advisable. I went and had a chat with my local guy but wasn't very helpful.  Hoppers is my best bet (apart from Datto) but I don't think they are open at present.

 

Yel.  Thanks, I had seen some adapters on google but not sure if/whether they would work.  Ideally the best solution will be a replacement master but second best will be adapters. 

 

As an aside I'm hopeful of getting this sorted (amongst a number of other bits and pieces) as I am booked in to get the cam run in later this month and would hate to think I can't try and drive it 'cause I have no brakes lol. Cheers Ron

[76lxhatch]

Ball flare on WB master cylinder? I thought they were all double flare, are you sure you're not just missing the brass seats as mentioned above? (The seat is completely separate to the optional residual pressure valve that sits behind it for drum brake use). They generally come with a master cylinder rebuild kit so perhaps someone has forgotten them?

[dattoman]

So you have inverted flares on the pipe... and ball type cyl....

P10037 is the 1" commodore master

This takes double (inverted) flares and looks exactly the same

Has same metric threads too

 

Get a look at one of those before doing anything else

[Cook]

Thanks guys.  I will take this one off and try to compare it to the P10037 in the flesh.  Will let you know how I go. Cheers Ron

[Cook]

Thanks again to Neil and others for your advice.  I went to Hoppers Stoppers and they agreed the best solution was replace it with P10037, which I have done and all back in place without a hitch.  Brakes now bled.  Cheers Ron