7 replies to this topic

[neglectedtorana]

I have 16x7 Walkinshaw wheels on my LX sedan, discs are VN.

The wheels look good and I think they suit the car well but I would like wider wheels on the rear so am thinking about a change. I would prefer the same wheels for the rear in 16x8 but they don't exist, I have asked a manufacturer for a price to make 2 and am expecting a price that is out of my budget. The current front wheels have a +37 offset with 205/55-16 tyres and don't scrub anywhere. I may also lower the car about 10mm in the future if I can gain some extra exhaust clearance.

 

If I buy new wheels and keep the Commodore discs I will have to keep similar offset wheels.

At the moment I have about 20mm to the inside edge of the outer guard, how much closer can I go? I was thinking I could reduce this clearance by about 12mm if I bought wheels with a +25 offset and still be clear when turning etc.

 

Anyone ever measured this clearance?

Just from looking at photos I think many people have wheels closer to the guard lip than mine.

 

As for the rear I will probably need to change the diff length but am prepared for that to have wider wheels.

 

Also has anyone used the OS wheels? I quite like these,

https://www.chrisnea...s-formular-star

 

Any help appreciated,

 

Cheers, Tom

 

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[Heath]

All Alloy Welding in Sydney (or his brother's company etc.) can sort you out with Walkies that are made to a different size (within reason), not sure if that's the avenue you're already pursuing.

 

You could get some hubcentric spacers and have a little play with clearances with minimal investment.

On my cars, I like the wheels to fit very tight because IMO space between rubber and wheel arches looks shithouse, but I always go into driveways etc. with the car massively diagonal and with the wheels pointing straight, so my tread never grabs my guards. Just look at people in the Jap car scene to see how close you can get that stuff (keep in mind some of those cars have pretty high spring rates, but they are super tight and it looks marvelous). Curving the sidewall in with a bit of stretch allows you to have a lot more wheel (i.e. dish) with the same clearance through the motion curve and steering.

 

If you like the Walkies, I'd space the fronts out a fraction (hubcentric so it's all hunky dorey), get deeper ones made for the rear, and shorten the diff to compensate. 

Not a cheap exercise, but to me, they're a winner compared to the Chinese wheels in that link.

 

There was a great looking silver HJ/HX/HZ Panelvan at Summernats 33 (maroon detailed motor) which had some tasty widened walkies on the rear. You can probably find some photos if you look far enough.

Edited by Heath, 19 January 2021 - 09:53 PM.

[76lxhatch]

I would suggest that 20mm clearance throughout suspension travel would be the minimum as the rear end moves around a lot under hard cornering. You have more than 20mm at the moment though due to the way you've measured it square. Unfortunately you can't get them as tight as you would on a Japanese car if you want to drive it properly or have rear seat passengers.

 

Why not just put slightly wider tyres on those wheels, they're obviously stretched out a little? That would have the added benefit of not mucking with the track width, less chance of introducing more understeer.

 

Heath's diagonal entranceway trick will actually tell you if you have clearance problems on a steep/sharp entrance because it will rock the suspension and lift one side wheel quite high. This can actually catch flares (I know from experience) so try it carefully if you have very tight clearances!

[Heath]

The rear end under hard cornering does however move in your favour, rather than against you.

 

The front end to a much smaller degree. But camber gain on bump helps.

In fact even the tyre distortion during hard cornering helps as well.

Tight = goooooooooood.

[76lxhatch]

There are two sides to the car Heath   - unless you have excessive roll, one side gets further away, the other closer.

 

The driveway test is more for the top of the tyre hitting the bodywork inside, not the flare itself.

[Heath]

LOL

I'm factoring in the body roll.

And yep gotcha. More swaybar and springrate will help the car float over diagonal obstacles. But if you don't have much of those, then yeah you end up needing a bump stop to stop the tyre hitting what's above it.

[Bigfella237]

I try to go up driveways at as much of an angle as possible, but it's to save the front spoiler not the tyres!

[neglectedtorana]

All interesting, thanks gents

 

All the ideas remind me at one stage I had the super low springs in the front which were 20mm lower and nothing rubbed, the front end had more negative camber though by looking at them. So I should have room to play with.

 

I am happy with the front wheels and I could go from the current 205 to 215 tyre when they wear out or go out of date whichever happens first and was hoping to just get the rears widened to 8" and I am sure I would be happy with the outcome but as the car is engineered I can't get the wheels widened as it is no longer legal in NSW. RMS has decided that a full seam weld is no longer allowed, unfortunate my plans revolved around getting the rears widened to 8" that is why I am looking for other options.

 

Those OS wheels are made in Thailand I think,

Dragway are probably the only Australian manufacturer with suitable wheels but would have to be 15"

 

I will try all alloy welding, I did get a price for the custom 8" wheels at $1750 each but that is out of my budget

 

Happy weekend everybody