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Mods for V8 install


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#1 toro

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Posted 07 February 2021 - 06:35 PM

Hi does this look like the correct steering shaft mod for a v8 install.

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#2 toro

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Posted 07 February 2021 - 06:44 PM

Also the brake booster should be relocated, I can't see one at all.

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#3 lakeside

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Posted 08 February 2021 - 10:09 AM

You need to fit motor, box, pipes and starter. I’m doing my steering at the moment and walking away because nothing fits

#4 toro

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Posted 08 February 2021 - 06:50 PM

I just bought the car as a roller, Has a borg warner diff 308 ratio 28 spline.

 

HQ stud pattern all round, & after searching the net looks like a CRS steering kit & a CRS gearbox crossmember have already been installed.

 

Battery has been moved to the boot & brake booster deleted. Chassis kit installed

 

Don't know  what to do, if everything is in place for a V8 I should take advantage of it, Or just go the easy route & put a 6 pack in it.


Edited by toro, 08 February 2021 - 06:52 PM.


#5 Lc69

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Posted 08 February 2021 - 08:53 PM

Looks like it’s maybe had a Chevy in it?
That is one of the steering mod options, and you power lead looks to be coming from the boot to the drivers side.......right hand starter.....makes me think Chev

Do what you want to do.
I wouldn’t be decided which engine I wanted based on the steering relocation.
It’s just one of many things you need to do for a V8 conversion.
Just consider the engineering implications and your budget......and your patients ha ha

You need to fit motor, box, pipes and starter. I’m doing my steering at the moment and walking away because nothing fits


Are you using the CRS kit?
Two knuckles or Three?

Also the brake booster should be relocated, I can't see one at all.


Your booster and bracketry has been removed.
Most likely to help with rocker cover clearance.

#6 lakeside

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Posted 09 February 2021 - 11:32 PM

Tony, pipes are 1,3/4 4-1, 3 knuckles and CRS chassis kit. 



#7 toro

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Posted 10 February 2021 - 08:16 AM

Apparently LC-LJ are only allowed up to 322, so that rules out a 350 SBC.

 

So 308 or 304 efi any pros or cons for both engines.

 

Also turbo 350/400 or trimatic or  T 700.



#8 gtrboyy

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Posted 10 February 2021 - 09:53 AM

307 or 327 chev will still rip in lc/j streetcar....if outrigger trimmed on passenger side is was setup for 308 starter motor clearance.

 

Will still rip hard with efi 304 with shorter diff gears/stally...th700 bellhousing tab be very close if not touch steering hence most go th350 or trimatic.

 

Looks like it was initially setup for chev with auto.

 

m/cyl bolted to firewall is for rocker cover clearance most ended up with vh44 booster under guard/dsah or in boot.Need 2 if rear discs.

 

 

Did it come with engineers reports or able to track down it's history registered with v8? Other pics of it?

 

Personally I'd throw in stock/mild v8 as cheap & simple as possible to get it registered/engineered/driving...then drive it every weekend while build decent driveline.



#9 yel327

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Posted 10 February 2021 - 11:56 AM

There are always cheap 283 or 305 SBC on Gumtree. Even non-Holden 307 are cheap. There have been a few early 327 on there lately as well.

#10 lakeside

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Posted 10 February 2021 - 01:44 PM

Apparently LC-LJ are only allowed up to 322, so that rules out a 350 SBC.

 

So 308 or 304 efi any pros or cons for both engines.

 

Also turbo 350/400 or trimatic or  T 700.


Can you tell the difference between a 302 and 350 sbc? 



#11 yel327

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Posted 10 February 2021 - 02:10 PM

Externally 302, 327, 350 and even 377 look the same. Just the back of the crank can look different.

Here is a 305 and TH200R4 pretty cheap. I think TH200 fits where a TH350 or Powerglide does.


https://www.gumtree....opytopasteboard

#12 toro

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Posted 10 February 2021 - 06:54 PM

There are a few options there,  You can get a brand new 350 chev crate engine at a good price unsure if it would get registered though. 

 

Does anyone have a link for the 304 efi install , Or is the wiring a major pain.



#13 yel327

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Posted 10 February 2021 - 09:36 PM

EFI 5L is easy, especially the VN-VP/VG/VQ versions. There is far more work in the fuel than the wiring. You can even get whole custom made harnesses if you don’t want to do it yourself. But there are some advantages to the SBC route as well especially if it has had a SBC in it before. Don’t discount a 302,305 or 307, all will make decent power with minimal mods. A 307 is a nice engine with the right heads.

#14 Lc69

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Posted 10 February 2021 - 10:59 PM

Tony, pipes are 1,3/4 4-1, 3 knuckles and CRS chassis kit. 


I used the crs two knuckle kit, no chassis mods, and std headers.
Was advised several times to have the headers custom made if I didn’t use the std manifolds.
There’s not much room ha ha, I borrowed mm from everywhere, but not a rattle or a rub anywhere.

#15 gtrboyy

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Posted 11 February 2021 - 02:26 PM

Go with whatever extractors & engineers report the car came with...does look like was setup for chev though.

 

I went efi 304 route back when it was cheap to do...reckon chev would be cheaper with more availibilty now.



#16 yel327

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Posted 11 February 2021 - 03:28 PM

I remember the HQ 1tonner my mate had. It was an old HK 307 with Aussie 4spd and 3.36 rear end. Cam unknown, from memory 30 or 40 or 60 over so somewhere between 312-317ci and old extractor system. He got it minus the engine top end. All he did was put the whole top end off his GTS327 on it as none of it was original to the 327, was 461 fuelies, alloy intake and a Holley. That car went like the clappers. Towed like a locomotive. For what it was it was impressive. A few years later he built a WB 1-tonner again with 3.36 rear end. This time a mild red 308 at 60 thou and Muncie. Went well but didn’t pull anything like the 307. Later changed to whole top end on the 308 to VP EFI and a mild EFI cam. Went really well, probably out powered the 307 but didn’t have its torque.
My 2c worth, keep it SBC. Just build a 307 with modern heads, even the early Corvette alloys which are cheap and small 58cc chambers. Hydraulic roller and it’ll be more than enough in an LJ.. those 307’s will easily bore to 4”+ so don’t be afraid of 60 thou. Use a Holley Sniper if you want EFI.
Nothing wrong with the EFI Holden engine either, but if it’s already been SBC I’d keep it that way.

#17 toro

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Posted 11 February 2021 - 04:33 PM

I asked the motor transport authority NSW here is what they said :

 

if you wish to go beyond that of the maximum recommended engine capacity outlined in Vehicle Standards Bulletin 14 your preferred certifier would need to refer to all Australian Design Rules, Regulation and other standards that apply to determine the modification complies in NSW, if the certifier determines the modification can comply, all standards, testing methods and the modification will need to be outlined in a VSCCS compliance certificate, the certifier would issue this to you that will then need to be presented to Service NSW to endorse on the registration records of the vehicle.

 

 

So basically 253 is the max you can go otherwise you need to fully engineer it.

 

The car had a 400 chev in it years ago  but no paperwork at all. has a QLD mod plate in the glovebox.



#18 yel327

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Posted 11 February 2021 - 05:13 PM

Is 253 the absolute maximum capacity? There are 262, 265 and 267ci SBC’s. Plus the 283 of course, which is easily turned into a 307.

#19 toro

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Posted 11 February 2021 - 05:49 PM

Is 253 the absolute maximum capacity? There are 262, 265 and 267ci SBC’s. Plus the 283 of course, which is easily turned into a 307.

 

 

You can go as big as you like it is just more engineering involved, even the 253 you would have to get some engineering done.

 

I wrote to a couple of engineers just waiting to hear back from them.



#20 Lc69

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Posted 11 February 2021 - 11:45 PM

A 253 still requires a mod plate but because it fits within the allowable range of the vehicle standards it’s a much easier pathway to upgrading to a V8.
You still need to meet basic adr requirements, which generally means making sure the window blower works and fitting retractable seat belts, and you will need to pass a brake test and a noise test.
Best to find an engineer that you plan to work with and ask them what’s going to be acceptable.
The vehicle std are available and relatively straight forward, have a thinkmabout what mods you want to make and read the appropriate sections.
Keep in mind that every modification that requires approval will cost money....engine, gearbox, brakes, exhaust.......starts to add up $$$$$$

#21 warrenm

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Posted 12 February 2021 - 05:44 AM

The Qld. mod plate means nothing in NSW.



#22 toro

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Posted 12 February 2021 - 06:59 AM

If I didn't have all the other mods already I wouldn't mind a hot 6, Seems like a waste of a big diff & chassis kit.

 

Also the guy I got it off was installing a RB 30 turbo so has the fuel lines set up for EFI.

 

And the bigger HQ brakes.


Edited by toro, 12 February 2021 - 07:01 AM.


#23 yel327

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Posted 12 February 2021 - 08:08 AM

Here is a cheap 305 in QLD:
https://www.gumtree....opytopasteboard

#24 lakeside

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Posted 12 February 2021 - 10:51 AM

If I didn't have all the other mods already I wouldn't mind a hot 6, Seems like a waste of a big diff & chassis kit.

 

Also the guy I got it off was installing a RB 30 turbo so has the fuel lines set up for EFI.

 

And the bigger HQ brakes.


 

really depends on how much money you like to part with. These LC/LJ bodies will twist with a 6 cyl red motor and you also put a smaller diff but it will break or spend lots and it will still break. 



#25 _LONA-CK_

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Posted 12 February 2021 - 03:25 PM

Looks like your front Kframe has been slotted to fit the chev sump,,, anyway I have a clients car sitting on my hoist now that would be keen on the chassis kit and gearbox cross member at the right price.

Let me know if you are going down the 6cyl lane and want to sell.

 

Cheers gong






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