#1
Posted 17 September 2021 - 09:09 PM
I've upgraded my brakes with hopper stoppers on the front, and vr disk's on the rear.
Commodore duel diaphragm booster and ford master cylinder. I suspect that it is brake fail switch.
How do you reset it? Or could it be anything else I'm missing. Thanks in advance. FRUSTRATING IMG20210917175247_BURST001.jpg 77.89K 4 downloads
#2
Posted 17 September 2021 - 10:20 PM
Pull it out while bleeding
#3
Posted 17 September 2021 - 11:50 PM
#4
Posted 18 September 2021 - 12:38 AM
Likely your clearance between booster and master haven't been set correctly
#5
Posted 18 September 2021 - 12:47 AM
Bench bled the master?
#6
Posted 18 September 2021 - 10:36 AM
#7
Posted 18 September 2021 - 10:43 AM
#8
Posted 18 September 2021 - 02:17 PM
I have a single brake fail switch wire. Can I just split the wiring into a 2 plug wire for the switch? Also I watched a you tube video thfor with upgrade braking on Ford Mustangs, and the guy used a simple plug to keep proporting valve in position. Can you buy these in Perth Neil? Can't find any on Repco site. I've only seen them on eBay. I'll try throw a photo up.
Single brake fail switch wire just switches to earth to bring on the brake fail indicator.
You can make your own simple plug.
The purpose of the plug is to keep the slide actuator for Brake fail in position while you bleed the brakes.
You can dismantle the M/C and re-position the actuator slide or use hydraulic pressure to move it back.
Plug the front brake output port and leave the rear brake port open to atmosphere, ( reservoir full of fluid)
pump the brake pedal very slowly, if the brake fail indicator goes off yippee. remove brake fail indicator switch and replace with "simple plug and continue to bleed as normal
when finished replace brake fail indicator switch.
If the indicator does not go off, swap Plug the rear brake output port and leave the front brake port open to atmosphere.
Essentially you are using hydraulic pressure to push the brake fail actuator back into the neutral position.
There are 6 ways to bleed Hydraulic actuators (read - "Brakes" for us)
All well and good when the process you follow works. What do you do when it doesn't?
1) Normal -2 man - Pump/unlock/bleed/lock - repeat
2) Gravity -1 man - unlock all calipers - long drain hose to watch for no more bubbles (top-up reservoir) - slow messy.
3) Vaccum pump -1 man - Attach vacuum pump - unlock - apply vacuum and "suck" fluid out of caliper and right through the system from the reservoir.
4) Preliminary Bench bleed - priming the Master Cylinder before installing and attaching brake lines.
5) Reverse Injection. For stubborn bubble/air lock master cylinders - inject brake fluid into Master Cylinder brake line ports.
6) Orientation Bleeding. simply bubbles float to the top - if the output port is not at the top air will be trapped - that is why caliper output bleed points are always at the top.
Uphill master cylinders and even level ones will still trap a percentage of air if the output port is not at the highest point. (bench bleed with the output port orientated at the highest point.)
Attached Files
Edited by Balfizar, 18 September 2021 - 02:17 PM.
#9
Posted 18 September 2021 - 09:11 PM
Thanks everyone for your input and help.
I'll throw up a few photos. Had its maiden voyage today around the block. First time in 11 years.
0 user(s) are reading this topic
0 members, 0 guests, 0 anonymous users