13 replies to this topic

[Drake]

Hello everyone,

 

I have HQ stub axles on my Torana and would like to know if the UC steering arms will fit.

 

Thank you,

[axistr]

Although UC will bolt on you really need to run A9X steering arms. Harrop make a copy of the A9X arms which were around $480.00 last time I purchased a pair.

[Drake]

Thank you axistr for your reply.

The Harrop Arms don't  have a bump stop though, and on full lock the calliper hits the upper control arm causing calliper knock on, which I am trying to stop. This is the reason I am looking at the UC arms as the A9X ones are impossible to get (unless someone has a set that they're willing to sell).

 

I understand that the UC may give me some bump steer and I was wondering if anyone else has come across this and able to rectify.

[axistr]

Some models had lower control arm stops on them, some didn't. You could tack weld a couple of stops on the lower control arms to stop this. Or better still set your brakes up so they don't hit the control arms. I have 298mm brake kits on both my Toranas (callipers front mount) and steering arm stops removed for the extra travel with the power steering and my callipers don't even come close to hitting anything. 

[Drake]

 IMG_0878 (a).jpg   551.47K   13 downloadsInteresting, I have vented discs with WBcallipers, see attached photo and the banjo bolt hits the upper control arm in the full lock position.

 

any advise on how to fix would be appreciated.

 

 

[76lxhatch]

If those are Harrop steering arms the UC ones will lift the outer tie rod end and interfere with the brake caliper, so they won't fit.

 

It looks like it's hitting the cross member rather than than the control arm due to using those WB calipers. The HZ calipers are basically the same body but have the hose connection (also note imperial thread rather than metric if memory serves) in a different position so you don't get this issue.

 

As Axistr said you could make a bump stop of some sort if you can still get adequate lock while maintaining clearance. The UC setup has a knob on the steering arm as well as plates on the lower control arms. Looks like you may need a bit bigger stop anyway, so it may as well be custom made to suit what you have.

[Drake]

Thanks 76LXHatch.
I now the UC lower arms have a bump stop welded on them.
Would this be a possible solution and retain the Harrop arms?

[Statler]

Thanks 76LXHatch.
I now the UC lower arms have a bump stop welded on them.
Would this be a possible solution and retain the Harrop arms?

Yes. 

[Drake]

Hi Col,

Would you know if the UC LCA's require any mods, or do I need to change anything on my car, as I know the hole is slightly larger on the UC LCA's where the shock sits. 

[ls2lxhatch]

I had a similar problem with the lack of a steering stop on Harrop steering arms on my setup. It was further complicated by the McDonald Bros tubular LCA which do not have provision for a steering stop.

 

My solution was to reduce the travel in the steering rack by around 10 mm so the steering arms would not contact the LCA on full lock.

 

The steering rack travel was reduced by fitting a spacer on the rack after the tie rod lock nut (inside the rack boot) reducing the distance between the tie rod lock nut and the end of the rack tube.

 

Picture from this thread

[Statler]

Hi Col,

Would you know if the UC LCA's require any mods, or do I need to change anything on my car, as I know the hole is slightly larger on the UC LCA's where the shock sits. 

I would just weld on some stops to your existing :LCA's. 

The shock hole is actually smaller on the UC items. 

[Heath]

The shock hole is larger - not smaller - on the UC lower arms.

UC lower arm shock cut-out on RHS:


As above, I would say while the UC lower arms have steering stops, it doesn't mean that steering stop is the right size for your application. I would make your own stops and weld them onto your existing arms.

However, the UC arm is a direct replacement if you want to do it that way. There are no geometry differences. The shock hole allows for a slightly larger diameter shock, but good quality aftermarket shocks will need either hole opened out further than anything Holden ever did.

[Statler]

The shock hole is larger - not smaller - on the UC lower arms.
 

You are correct. There is a 2mm difference. 

[claysummers]

Most holes would have been enlarged with the big bastard file by now to fit larger bore shocks no doubt. I remember Pedders doing this on my HX van 40 years ago.

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