20 replies to this topic

[champagne_metallic]

Can a 202 with 60 thou over be rebuilt without being sleeved or is it the end of the line, rather not go 80 thou if possible

[lj72bathurst]

I had a 202 60 thou and always over heated until
The bore cracked.
If it’s a special engine sleeve it or just get another engine. I will never go over 40 thou again

Jason

[I'm a Red Motor fiend]

If the bores don't measure up with just a hone, don't do it.

[evl666]

I’ve got 60 over on my 202 lc and it’s a bastard to keep cool. Complete overhaul of all cooling related items and even fitted a thermo on the front of the rad with mechanical fan still fitted and won’t keep cool for too long standing still. Never go 60 thou over again on a 202

[S pack]

I’ve got 60 over on my 202 lc and it’s a bastard to keep cool. Complete overhaul of all cooling related items and even fitted a thermo on the front of the rad with mechanical fan still fitted and won’t keep cool for too long standing still. Never go 60 thou over again on a 202

I don't believe being 20, 40 or 60 thou oversize has any direct relationship to the overheating of an engine.

My 202 is only 40 thou OS and I have the same issues and have taken the exact same steps to try to control the problem as you have.

The more power you build your engine to produce the more heat it is going to emit.

 

I remember back in the 70's the std 202 was known to have overheating issues. It was not uncommon to see a HQ Holden at the side of the highway to the Gold Coast with steam billowing from the engine bay on a hot summer's day.

 

 

Edited by S pack, 18 April 2022 - 08:59 AM.

[I'm a Red Motor fiend]

Agree. Mine is 60 thou over, 11:1 comp and grout filled to the water pump and I don't have issues.

The issue at 60 thou or more are the thin walls having an effect on ring seal.

[RallyRed]

My experience, not heaps, but maybe enough....with these old clunkers overheating at the lights, idling , after a squirt etc...but ok out on the highway is mostly from 2 or 3 things - 

- a rattly old water pump with some fins missing/ clogged up

- radiator that seems ok, has been flushed out etc etc...but has tubes partially blocked.

- a tired rad. cap.

Out on the road enough air passes through the remaining good parts to keep it cool, but at slow speeds , standstill, even a good pump and a thermo just cant make it happen.

$125 from ebay gets you an alloy one, will soon show you if the rad is the problem. Then you can go alloy permanantly, or get the factory one sorted. 

 

p.s. back on the 60 thou question, I have heard of racing guys go straight to 60 thou for that little bit of permitted capacity, so it can't inherently cause o/heating?

 

Happy to be educated.

Edited by RallyRed, 18 April 2022 - 12:38 PM.

[claysummers]

My old 192 idled at 82C. Three core radiator and engine fan. 186S cam y/t head. On the highway it would run hot at speed. At 60 kmh towing a trailer in mild weather it ran at 82C. Go figure.

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[IanC]

Mine at 40 thou had oil cooler, thermo fan and fan on it. It also had underdash aircondoner fitted. It did run hot in traffic. But fine on the highway. My motor is just getting done again now. It will be at 60 thou. No aircon though.
.

[Rockoz]

Back in the day I bored my 186 out 60 thou for the 192 capacity.

Not sure whether it was a race thing, but it certainly was the done thing on the street.

Replacement engines were cheap, and quite of you would have one in the car and one on a stand getting rebuilt.

If you had a couple of bucks you would also have one ready to go.

Sometimes they were just short engines.

Cam and head would be swapped over as they rarely got destroyed.

Wreckers would usually sell them cheap or give them away.

Most had them laying all over the place and were in the way of something else.

 

In my LC I ran a standard radiator and fan.

I had at different times, a 35/75 cam, a 50/90 cam or a standard cam.

I never had any overheating problems apart from when I first bought the car.

My mates garage had a Wynns PowerFlush system.

I found the best way to get things clean was to put the preclean in, which they recommended for only 15 minutes or so, but I kept it in until the engine got really hot. Usually after a few days of driving around.

I would then flush it and do the reverse flush and follow the procedure with the chemicals.

Because there were no time restraints or labour charges I kept it going until the water was perfectly clean on each stage.

I would run it for a week or so, then do the process again.

After 3 times, the water never got rusty again.

I also added soluble oil to the water which possibly helped to stop rust forming.

 

Cheers

 

Rob

[rodomo]

Old fans never had cowls. Probably most of the problem idling in hot traffic?

[evl666]

My experience, not heaps, but maybe enough....with these old clunkers overheating at the lights, idling , after a squirt etc...but ok out on the highway is mostly from 2 or 3 things -
- a rattly old water pump with some fins missing/ clogged up
- radiator that seems ok, has been flushed out etc etc...but has tubes partially blocked.
- a tired rad. cap.
Out on the road enough air passes through the remaining good parts to keep it cool, but at slow speeds , standstill, even a good pump and a thermo just cant make it happen.
$125 from ebay gets you an alloy one, will soon show you if the rad is the problem. Then you can go alloy permanantly, or get the factory one sorted.

p.s. back on the 60 thou question, I have heard of racing guys go straight to 60 thou for that little bit of permitted capacity, so it can't inherently cause o/heating?

Happy to be educated.

I cut the ends off xu1 rad to make sure it was clean and wasn’t blocked

New water pump with old style impeller pressed on

New rad cap.

Still won’t stay cool for too long sitting still!

Edited by evl666, 08 May 2022 - 09:57 PM.

[RallyRed]

ok, then you have eliminated a few issues.
Next - are you 100% sure the thermo fan is correct polarity..i.e. it's blowing in the correct direction?
p s.also temporarily, take out the thermostat.

Edited by RallyRed, 08 May 2022 - 10:25 PM.

[RallyRed]

Also, have you checked that it is "really" hot, or just that the gauge is saying its hot?

[S pack]

Not running a heap of ignition timing advance?

[liswar2]

Iv run .060 on a few engines , in Lc and LJ xu1 set ups
As said above a clean radiator , i would take it out and have it flushed bi annually, mechanical fan , either standard or aftermarket and
Thermo fans in front of radiator blowing back into motor on a temp switch , i could sit in traffic at car shows and never had a issue,
This set up worked fine for me in WA.
Not factory with thermos but peace of mind ,
Also ran .080 with this set up as well.
And a temp gun can also check your correct temp .

[evl666]

The gauge is correct….
Not running crazy advance.
Originally I didn’t have the heater core connected so I connected it and it did make it slow down getting hot at a bit. Then I fitted a hv oil pump and that helped also but still won’t keep it happy at a stand still. Now here me out but I was wondering if it was the stock cast headers causing a problem. Whether it is ‘choking’ the engine and causing the head The head is a stage three with big ports

[LCK186]

HI i ran 60 thou 202 engines hot head webbers etc  for years, in my toranas, it would sit at 190 degrees at lights it would climb slowly until driving again, i was told by a friend to put caustic soda in the radiator remove the thermostat run the car for 10 to 15 minutes, then undo the bottom radiator hose and release all water,  repeat another 2 two 3 times, i flushed out the engine and the radiator, this helped greatly, the temp guage dropped,

[warrenm]

Where is the temp sender unit located, in the thermostat housing or near the exhaust port on the left? I've measured the temps in various locations & found that they can vary a lot, I prefer the thermostat housing.

[RallyRed]

Maybe try a couple of lb higher radiator cap. Cheap test.

[evl666]

Temp sender is in the head near the exhaust port