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LJ Torana wiper motor


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#1 TrickyD

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Posted 09 May 2022 - 12:27 PM

Does anyone have video of how to remove and reinstall? Couldn't find anything on youtube, was hoping someone on here has a link

 

Thanks all



#2 73SUNBURSTEXYOUWON

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Posted 09 May 2022 - 03:03 PM

No video, but refer below.

http://www.gmh-toran...+motor +removal

#3 Bazza

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Posted 09 May 2022 - 07:40 PM

Does anyone have video of how to remove and reinstall? Couldn't find anything on youtube, was hoping someone on here has a link

 

Thanks all


Be sure to cycle the motor to place the arm in the correct position.

 

Cheers

Attached Files



#4 TrickyD

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Posted 13 May 2022 - 10:31 AM

Thanks all,

 

See what I can do!



#5 TrickyD

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Posted 26 May 2022 - 03:55 PM

Hi all, I'm having a bit of trouble attaching pics. So I can't show you all what I need to show you. (can someone please advise on how to attach pics from phone and or snipping? Once I know this it'll make it much easier to explain my questions)

 

So I'll do my best explaining what I need answers to.

 

Heater box - I have got it out, but there was a rattle in there and out pops what looks like a heating element (no not the core) with two connecting pins (electrical looks like). Is this required for the fan / heater to work (rwc)? If so can I just pull the fan out and re connect it under there? If so is there a method to removing the weird nut arrangement on the shaft holding it in place?

 

And is it really necessary to glue the heater box gaskets into the firewall and down onto the plenum? If so what are the suggestions for what type of glue? And does the fan cover also need to be glued? 

 

Lastly, the gasket kit does not have one for the fan cover where it meets up to the firewall, was thinking a trip to clark rubber for some neoprene or epdm - any suggestions would be much appreciated.

 

Cheers everyone



#6 sibhs

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Posted 26 May 2022 - 04:54 PM

G'day Mick. Thats a lot of questions, I'll try answer some.

 

When fitting heater box I used Mastic as an extra precaution to seal the foam gaskets. Theoretically the foam should seal on it's own.

 

The fan cover to firewall I would find an original seal, they are a very custom shape but made from a longer lasting rubber. 

 

If you have an after market foam kit, the seal between heater box and firewall may be too thin. Either use an original seal or thicken up the new seal by about 3-4mm.

 

That heating element is actually the resistor which gives your fan half speed. Don't damage or loose it. It is riveted to the base.

 

Removing the fan is hard. Flat head screw driver to twist the locking ring off fan. There is a fine wire pin running through the shaft which creates a interference fit. You can not access it until the fan is off. You need to hold the shaft while turning and pulling on fan. Good luck.

 

Theres plenty of threads and pictures on this.

Marty


Edited by sibhs, 26 May 2022 - 04:56 PM.


#7 TrickyD

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Posted 27 May 2022 - 09:06 AM

G'day Mick. Thats a lot of questions, I'll try answer some.

 

When fitting heater box I used Mastic as an extra precaution to seal the foam gaskets. Theoretically the foam should seal on it's own.

 

The fan cover to firewall I would find an original seal, they are a very custom shape but made from a longer lasting rubber. 

 

If you have an after market foam kit, the seal between heater box and firewall may be too thin. Either use an original seal or thicken up the new seal by about 3-4mm.

 

That heating element is actually the resistor which gives your fan half speed. Don't damage or loose it. It is riveted to the base.

 

Removing the fan is hard. Flat head screw driver to twist the locking ring off fan. There is a fine wire pin running through the shaft which creates a interference fit. You can not access it until the fan is off. You need to hold the shaft while turning and pulling on fan. Good luck.

 

Theres plenty of threads and pictures on this.

Marty

Thanks Marty!

 

So I have to remove the fan to refit the resistor?

 

I'll see if I can find those threads.



#8 Indy Orange

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Posted 27 May 2022 - 12:53 PM

Take out the box and split it by removing the clips surrounding it. You don’t have to remove the fan or motor.Then you can get to the resistor .

#9 TrickyD

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Posted 30 May 2022 - 03:49 PM

OK so now I've got the box together resistor in. But buggered how to get the nuts back on under the dash on the driver's side.

Dropped the steering column and that made zero difference seeing how it drops half an inch

Would need to drop the pedal arrangement to get to it. Otherwise humanly impossible

Does anyone know how to drop the pedal arrangement?.

Manual btw

Any information much appreciated

P.s anyone know where I can find the designers? Would like to give a bit of advice. Lol

#10 Indy Orange

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Posted 30 May 2022 - 04:12 PM

Hi Mick ,the nuts for the heater box on the drivers side hold the vent in place as well ,the other two ,you shouldn’t have to remove the pedal assembly,I used a small 1\4 inch socket set with long extension up through the pedal arrangement.A mirror facing upwards and a good work light also helped.Open the front door fully and stick your head up under the dash.

Good luck .Paul.


Edited by Indy Orange, 30 May 2022 - 04:20 PM.


#11 sibhs

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Posted 30 May 2022 - 05:34 PM

Hi Mick ,the nuts for the heater box on the drivers side hold the vent in place as well ,the other two ,you shouldn’t have to remove the pedal assembly,I used a small 1\4 inch socket set with long extension up through the pedal arrangement.A mirror facing upwards and a good work light also helped.Open the front door fully and stick your head up under the dash.

Good luck .Paul.

They're aren't any in the pedal assembly. Theres 4 on the heater vent then all the others are on the passenger side.

 

Have you removed the seats? Otherwise what Paul said with an extension and socket. You need the heater cable attachment fitted as well.



#12 Indy Orange

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Posted 30 May 2022 - 06:40 PM

Your right Marty ,for some reason I was thinking there was an extra two.Buggers are hard to get at though.

I ended up hanging out the front door on my back with my head on the pedals 😬,a mirror might be easier.Don’t over tighten ,you’ll bust the holes in the vent where the threads come through.


Edited by Indy Orange, 30 May 2022 - 06:47 PM.


#13 minor miss steak

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Posted 18 November 2022 - 02:41 PM

So a couple of questions, Exactly how many nuts/screws/ bolts hold the heater box on? I take it there are four around the vent on the drivers side but how many on the passengers side? Also can you remove the heaterbox with the fan motor attached or do you need to remove the fan and then the motor to remove the heater box? One last thing, could the heater core and the wiper motor be replaced just by taking the heater box top off under the bonnet?


Edited by minor miss steak, 18 November 2022 - 02:42 PM.


#14 S pack

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Posted 18 November 2022 - 06:03 PM

I can't remember if there is a total of 7 or 8 or maybe 9 studs and nuts securing the heater box base plate to the upper dash panel.

Stick your head in under the dash/glove box and you will find them.

Yes the heater box can be removed with the fan motor attached and no you will find it difficult, if not impossible, to remove the top of the heater box and leave the base plate still attached to the car.



#15 Indy Orange

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Posted 18 November 2022 - 07:17 PM

This may help.

Attached Files



#16 Indy Orange

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Posted 18 November 2022 - 07:22 PM

2 on the other side of the duct where the cable attaches.

Edited by Indy Orange, 18 November 2022 - 07:24 PM.





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