Nicks LH Restoration
#26
Posted 18 March 2012 - 06:36 PM
Next thing is to attack is removing K-frame for rebuilding, fixing rust in engine bay and bringing stripping it back to bare metal. hopefully in the next month the front of the car will be ready for some paint..
the 173 motor and box along with its full exhaust is also for sale for who ever is interested.
#27 _Torza_
Posted 19 March 2012 - 08:39 PM
#28
Posted 20 March 2012 - 04:59 PM
I got a welder and bits finally just gotta get a bottle of gas and start practicing.
Hopfully I can get some more work done over the next few weeks.
#29 _Torza_
Posted 20 March 2012 - 09:05 PM
#30
Posted 22 March 2012 - 05:02 PM
I got a few days off next week so hoping I can get some practice and actually do some welding on the car...
I will post pics...
#31
Posted 24 March 2012 - 07:06 PM
Just wanted to know if someone has fitted an after market rad support? i cut mine out a while ago and i have played around with the rares spair one it seems that my new one has a 10-15 over hang underneath. interested to see how some of you guys done it...any tips or tricks?
Cheers
Nick
#32 _Liam_
Posted 24 March 2012 - 07:39 PM
#33
Posted 24 March 2012 - 07:51 PM
you will see what i am talking about... there is no way you could fit the nose cone over that.. lol i am interested to see how some people have done it around here...
#34 _Liam_
Posted 24 March 2012 - 08:17 PM
#35
Posted 24 March 2012 - 08:41 PM
there is a tap there but its a lil hard to see because of the dust and poor quality of the iphone pics..
Its actually a rares spair replacement and i prob wont be able to get a refund its all scratched from just moving from corner to corner in the garage..
as you suggested i might have to cut the hole thing in half and cut off 10mm and re weld back together....
thanks for the advise.
#36 _Liam_
Posted 25 March 2012 - 01:26 PM
#37
Posted 25 March 2012 - 01:40 PM
Looking at the new one might be an easy cut and shut but at the end of the day shouldn't need that much mod to a replacement part.
Thanks for your reply mate.
#38
Posted 26 March 2012 - 05:50 PM
and thats coming from a pretty trade minded person.
I also striped the drivers door and half of the engine bay. hoping by the end of the week ill have the engine bay stripped and some more hang on panels..
I bought some Deoxodiser by MOTOSPRAY now i am wondering if that is the same stuff as deoxodine i hear everyone talking about on this forum, because i do have some surface rust under where the booster is.
some pics below id like to get some feedback for my welding. keep in mind its the 3rd bead i have ever done... i recon after i grind it down should come up ok...
THE DOOR
THE WELD
#39 _Liam_
Posted 26 March 2012 - 06:26 PM
Doing fine mate.
#40
Posted 26 March 2012 - 06:38 PM
I also went in to rares personally today i don't think they really cered he just sed he would be spewing if he was in my shoes LOL nice customer service but he is getting back to me with a measurement from an other rad support.. will see what happens..
#41
Posted 27 March 2012 - 10:32 AM
Personally I dial the amps/gas up to the point where it is almost burning holes if you move to slow...then dial it back a touch from that point.
#42
Posted 27 March 2012 - 03:58 PM
#43
Posted 27 March 2012 - 04:26 PM
#44
Posted 27 March 2012 - 05:31 PM
I used a wire cup on the end of a drill on those tight areas. Worked well, but there are other methods.
#45 _LH SLR 3300_
Posted 27 March 2012 - 07:34 PM
#46
Posted 27 March 2012 - 07:34 PM
#47 _LH SLR 3300_
Posted 27 March 2012 - 07:40 PM
#48
Posted 27 March 2012 - 07:45 PM
I use graffiti removal discs. They look like seaweed all scrunched up. Small wire wheels on the end of a drill or a Dremel work good in the hard to get areas. Deoxidine & scotchbrite/scourers work good too, might take a few goes to remove the really tough areas of surface rust, but works well especially if you leave the deoxidine to soak in for around 10 mins or so before scrubbing the rust. WD40 or similar works a treat to prevent the rust coming back until you're ready to apply primer, just spray a liberal coat of it over the bare steel & remove with prepsol/wax & grease remover before priming.
Thats what i used to get it all back to bare metal, i tried paint stripping after looking at your thread but i didn't like the fumes and the mess and how time consuming it was so i went to those strip discs. they seem to strip fast and with minimal heat... what primer do you recommend? etch out of a can then onto a 2k epoxy? not realy sure i just used etch primer on the door and guard for the time being but if you can point in the right direction would be appreciated.
cheers Nick.
#49
Posted 27 March 2012 - 07:49 PM
Yep, that's what i use, i usually treat all bare steel with deoxidine before applying etch primers etc. If the steel is left bare, even for a couple of days, & not treated with the deoxidine before starting the paint process, the possibility of corrosion blisters appearing in the paint later increase. Some may dispute my claims, but i am a qualified panel beater & i work in a shop that specialises in restoration of old cars like Toranas.
i bought some Deoxidiser by Motospray, is that the right stuff? cand find anything else.
#50 _LH SLR 3300_
Posted 27 March 2012 - 07:58 PM
Yes, i use the Motospray stuff & i'm impressed with the results i got from it.
Also tagged with one or more of these keywords: Lh torana restoration rust, restoration, rust, lx torana
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