cam selection advice

Hi there D Train,

As the Cam get's bigger, the RMP range goes higher,

so when you look at a CAM rpm lIst, you can then gauge your max rpm.

On top of that, will be the idle circumstances, where an Auto is concerned. 

http://www.cranecams...heet_9-9-10.pdf

The CC272 looks good:-

Mechanical

2800-6500

1/2" valve lift

112 lobe separation for idle quality 

Solid lifter cam's are good.

Roller lifter cams are after that, which are called roller cams.

You can still have standard tappets, with a solid cam, I have done in the past, no worries. 

crane cc300 is the way to go for a big performance cam.

Standard bottom ends, can take a hiding IMHO,

So it is a learning curve to see how far you can go.

The Cam I selected up there^^^, is good, where you don't have to rev it to the max, if you don't want,

but when you do, she will wear out the standard bottom end. 

In my years, I wear Red6 ones out in 4000 km's @ 7500 rpm for the first gear take offs, 

Excellent Choice Mate.   

The h284 is more along the lines of where im headed.
Still trying to use my old rockers and pushrods

Edited by D Train, 12 June 2015 - 08:39 AM.

Nice Package:-

Going to be a goodie. 

You know your stuff Mate,

See what happens next. 

Everything back from the engine shop, block honed vn heads recon crank polished.... assembly time!!
This is actually my first rebuild, ive been asking lots of questions and watching video clips but if anyone has any little tips to shout out I will be all ears!
Cheers.

Few quick tips...

1) Mare sure you scrub the cylinders very well with soapy water to remove and hone grit. Do not assume this has been done.

2) Make sure you check 'end' float of the crank- most just install thrust bearings and neglect to actually check the float. Lever the crank in each direction and check the amount of play. Dial indicator is the correct way but you can get away with feeler gauges.

3) Check bearing clearances with plasti-guage. Make sure you have holes for bearings installed/aligned with oil holes (have seen these wrong many times leading to dry running, and subsequent failure by spinning a bearing).

4) I use engine assembly grease to prevent dry start up- many dont but hey, new engine I like to protect it. Cover bearing shells and cam lobes.

5) Torque bolts in stages, and oil the bolts to prevent false readings with torque wrench.

6) When installing cam- make sure you degree it! Use a degree wheel 1) The cam need to be checked that the valve timing events occur as per the cam card. This is for two reasons, a) that the cam was ground correctly and that the woodruff key on the gear is aligned correctly. You may need to modify a new offsett key if issues occur- there are a few tricks if the timing is off by a little.

7) Prime the oil pump before assembly

There is heaps more but these are the common issues... Ring end gap needs to be checked, as does alignment of the end gaps... Also, when tightening the main bearings, keep checking that the crank spins freely without binding. If it binds you probably have your bearing order mixed up or back to front. Or the clearances are too tight.

If I think of more I will let you know...

Great information as usual J,

Like button for you.

Good to see you used your brain and went from gilmer back to V belts.