Spring installation guide
#1
Posted 20 February 2007 - 08:16 PM
Picked up some lowered, heavy duty (look like Pedders) springs from TUFFLH.
Tagged HT (Holden Torana) 2 (LH/LX/UC) FL (Front Lowered) etc... (info provided by Pedders)
I'm thinking it'd be a smart move to include some new shocks (was thinking some Monroe GT Gas or similar).
I've already changed a diff (on the hatch), so I'm familiar with what's involved up the back, but the front I'm told is a different story!
Can someone guide me with installation please? Are there any special tools or devices I need (heard of spring compressors)?...
Any help will be welcomed...
If I can get some help to do the job right, that would be a huge help...
Will get pics if any Mods want to make a sticky to assist others.
Cheers.
#2
Posted 20 February 2007 - 10:10 PM
Obviously, jack car up, sit it on jack stands, and get the front wheels off.
Remove the current shocks. Can't remember if calipers need to be removed or if you can get by with them still on....
Now put your jack underneath the lower control arm, take some of the pressure off it. Undo the lower balljoint nut (after removing the split pin). Good idea to leave the nut on a few threads... now lower the jack again... you'll now probably need to get a big hammer and tap around the lower ball joint (I don't like bashing the thread/nut itself.... hit from various angles around the area, you want to shock it apart)....
Hopefully it does come loose nice and easy.... once it's loose, remove nut completely.. then gently lower jack the rest of the way, and yoink out those old springs!
Have I got that procedure somewhere close??? I've probably forgotten something... I'm sure others will give you some good advice...
Edited by LXCHEV, 20 February 2007 - 10:11 PM.
#3
Posted 20 February 2007 - 10:12 PM
#4
Posted 20 February 2007 - 10:27 PM
This will now use the spring pressure to load the taper of the lower ball joint in the stub. A couple of whacks on the stub at the ball joint and the ball joint should release but still be retained by the loose nut. Again place the trolley jack under the control arm towards the wheel end and jack up until the pressure comes off the lower ball joint nut. Remove nut and slowly let the jack down to release the spring tension, the ball joint should disengage the lower conrol arm as the pressure comes off. Swing the upper control arm and stub assembly up and out of the way and tie with wire if possible. You may now need some extra leverage to push the control arm down to remove the spring and perhaps a tyre lever to tease the spring out.
Assembly is the reversal with a couple of things to note.
When reassemling make sure the coil end of the spring is located correctly in the control arm before you start to compress the spring.
Have the total weight on the jack before you tighten the lower conrol arm ball joint taper, don't try and use the nut to pull the ball joint into the stub. Same with upper control arm and lower control arm pivot nuts, have to be at ride height to avoid premature wear.
Will neeed an alignment after as any adjustment to height will alter toe-in.
Clear as mud?
Good luck!
#5
Posted 20 February 2007 - 10:30 PM
#6
Posted 21 February 2007 - 05:07 AM
Will read this a few times to get it to sink in....looking for some shockers now, then I'll give it a go.
Cheers!
#7
Posted 21 February 2007 - 09:15 AM
#8
Posted 21 February 2007 - 07:22 PM
#9
Posted 21 February 2007 - 10:10 PM
I totally forgot about that - CRITICAL!!! It's so easy to think you've located the spring properly at the top... everything felt like it went together ok, looks ok etc... but in actual fact is not 100% located in between the tabs at the top... it's happened to me before!
Now anytime I fit front springs... before I finish the job, and prior to re-fitting the shocks, I climb underneath on my back, and look right up the centre of the spring with a bright torch, and visually check that the spring is sitting centrally around the locating tabs.....
#10 _piranha_
Posted 07 March 2007 - 10:05 PM
be sure that the spring seats properly in its upper position during installation
This makes me think thats what is wrong with my car, if its not sitting properyl what would happen?
I took my torry in to get some springs I got off ebay and some new shocks fitted by a pro when I drove the car away I gave it a bit around a corner to test them and I heard a loud noise like the spring was scraping against something. I didnt take it back as I didnt have time and I thought because I supplied the springs it wasnt warantied and there was the possibility they were not the correct springs.
This only occurs when I take a right hand corner sharply I have noticed the spring is very close to the control arm and it rubs on sharp corners I thought maybe if I bash it with a hammer it might centre it a bit more.
do you think its just not sitting right do I need to twist it or something? Sorry not trying to steal thread just staying on topic.
#11
Posted 07 March 2007 - 10:07 PM
#12 _piranha_
Posted 08 March 2007 - 11:16 AM
Plus this was almost 2 years ago now, I'm a lazy bugger only to be addressing the issue now.
#13
Posted 08 March 2007 - 09:37 PM
1) Your spring is indeed not correctly located. This can cause it to "thunk" if it's not seated right.
2) It may actually be located fine... but if it's a bigger thicker spring, it can actually be quite normal for it to rub.... I've noticed some torries just have this problem. My hatchback makes a rubbing noise on the odd occasion ever since I fitted the heavy duty Pedders lowered springs... I've triple checked it's located ok, but like you said, it's just extremely close to the control arm, and rubs on it.
My bushes are due for replacement... perhaps this will help, I'm not sure.
Edited by LXCHEV, 08 March 2007 - 09:37 PM.
#14 _piranha_
Posted 08 March 2007 - 10:34 PM
#15
Posted 08 March 2007 - 10:46 PM
Then you should be able to see the spring located completely centrally at the very top... with the locating lugs/tabs all visisible inside the spring.
#16 _piranha_
Posted 08 March 2007 - 11:49 PM
#17 _livo74_
Posted 14 January 2017 - 09:43 AM
added safety tip
For lowered springs... if using a jack (under lower control arm) to compress springs..
first TIE spring to the crossmember, using THICK car towing strap.
tie twice even,
so if jack "fails"/bursts hydrolic.. the spring has to snap two pieces of towing strap before comes "flying out", (which now just wont be allowed happen.)
___
as for standard spring.. too long and would be paying someone else to fit, as read here often even getting the right compressor to fit can be a bitch
but, if doing yourself.. tie 5 pieces of thick towing strap! hahaha)
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