central locking
#1 _LX CHAMOIS HATCH_
Posted 01 January 2006 - 06:34 PM
since i am going to install it into the hatch i figured i would seek the wisdom of all the members who have done it already and not re invent the wheel, so to speak.
i also recall one member having a tech article on their site but i can't rember exactly who....redlh was it you???
any help appreciated
cheers
john
#2 _Flamenco_
Posted 01 January 2006 - 07:41 PM
Make sure the doorlock mechanism is working freely & is lubricated,
That for coupe's you could use the back door's solenoids in addition to the master one (2 per door),
In some instances you could wire up one solenoid so that one pulls and one pushes inside the same door (if running 2 solenoids per door)...
#3
Posted 01 January 2006 - 07:52 PM
Anyway good luck, and i have found this a awesome upgrade to the car, as u dont have to lean over to unlock the door for the girl and leave her waiting outside! haha
#4 _workinprogress_
Posted 01 January 2006 - 07:57 PM
#5 _Jewboy_
Posted 01 January 2006 - 10:26 PM
#6 _LX CHAMOIS HATCH_
Posted 02 January 2006 - 09:02 AM
but keep the experiences coming!
cheers
john
#7 _mike_nofx_
Posted 02 January 2006 - 11:56 PM
fronts work great, the back shitted me, i tried for hours to get the backs to work but theyre just too stiff, haha so only fronts.
The central locking kit i got was fairly cheap, so maybe the motors are weaker than more expensive ones. so id definately buy a decent set.
I never thought of 2 solenoids per door!! i might buy another 2 solenoids for the back doors.
Also with some rubber grommets and some nice looking wire, you can get a pretty good result with running cables. I cut the wires that came with the central locking for the bit you can see when the doors open (because drivers door had 5 seperate cables) and just ran some 5 core cable. looks neat and like its meant to be there!
Hardest thing i had to do was drill the holes in the doors/ body without removing the door, or scratching the car. I had to wedge a small drill inside the door and drill out. the body side is easier.
#8 _jabba_
Posted 03 January 2006 - 12:19 AM
Thanks
Damien
#9 _mike_nofx_
Posted 03 January 2006 - 12:28 AM
#10 _LX CHAMOIS HATCH_
Posted 03 January 2006 - 09:16 AM
cheers guys thanks for the help
john
#11
Posted 03 January 2006 - 11:14 AM
$20 + post
#12
Posted 03 January 2006 - 12:02 PM
#13 _The String_
Posted 04 January 2006 - 02:01 PM
Like jabba, i found the springs on the rear locks were too tight. I did'nt remove them, though I did stretch them to remove some of the tension. They now work fine and dont relock themselves.
#14 _jabba_
Posted 04 January 2006 - 03:52 PM
#15
Posted 04 January 2006 - 04:30 PM
Edited by TORUNYA, 04 January 2006 - 04:31 PM.
#16 _The String_
Posted 04 January 2006 - 04:37 PM
Both rears have worked perfectly for over a year now.
Just started having problem with the drivers door, will unlock but not lock. When I get some time, will pull the door lock out and see if the same thing can be done to the fronts.
#17
Posted 06 January 2006 - 02:57 PM
Grant..
#18 _LX CHAMOIS HATCH_
Posted 25 January 2006 - 07:00 PM
#19 _Flamenco_
Posted 25 January 2006 - 10:42 PM
#20 _Herne_
Posted 25 January 2006 - 11:13 PM
Herne
#21
Posted 12 February 2006 - 12:56 PM
what brand was the heavey duty kit from and where did you get it from. I have had central locking in the turbo tory for a few years. To get it to work well had to weakent the spring mechanisim in the lock and all works OK. But what I find with those cheapo Jacar solenoids is that they work OK for a couple of years then they start to fail by either not pulling in one direction the way they use to and not locking the car (I have another set in a EA faclcon and it does the same thing after a while). Some high quality solenoids would be goodFor my HQ i bought a "heavy duty" central locking kit and it cost around $150 but it was well worth it, they are much stronger than thoes cheap $40 sets. I installed the solinoid right under the push/pull lock in the front doors which works perfectly. For the rear doors i installed them towards the back of the door parallele to the locking wire but the locks were just to heavy. To get the rears to work you have to remove the whole lock and remove the plastic cover on it, on the lock there will be a little round spring which holds the lock in the lock/unlock position. If you remove this spring the solinoid will be able to lock and unlock the rear doors with ease. The only problem i've had with this is the lock will slide into the lock position if you've opened and closed the rear doors about 3 times without locking/unlocking the car (if that makes sence), but in normal use it will never be a problem. My central locking has been in for over 6months now and works great .
Thanks
Damien
#22 _Jewboy_
Posted 13 February 2006 - 12:42 AM
#23 _kenno_
Posted 11 March 2006 - 04:12 PM
I was looking at this set:
http://cgi.ebay.com....1QQcmdZViewItem
but noticed that the even thow its "Super Heavy Duty" and that "This unit has shown to be one of the worlds most advanced and powerful central locking kits."
the push and pull is only 28N whereas another member on here said that his were rated 60N!!
Is this the value that I should be looking at when seeing how powerful they are or should i be looking at the 7kg throw or are both these values proportional to one another anyway?
I guess the point of this reply was to see what force kits you guys have, whether you think this kit is worth buying or what to buy and where to buy a decent kit from.
Cheers
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