What do you guys recomend to seal head bolts that run into the water jacket. I used loctite non hardening sealant and within 10 mins of stating engine, a couple of bolts started leaking.
head bolt sealant
Started by
_gtrtorana_
, Oct 13 2006 07:54 AM
10 replies to this topic
#2
_82911_
_82911_
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Posted 13 October 2006 - 08:15 AM
Good 'ol GMH head stud sealer...
never fails
Cheers Greg..
never fails
Cheers Greg..
#3
LXCHEV
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Posted 13 October 2006 - 08:52 AM
Yep, go the factory Holden stuff 
#4
_gtrtorana_
_gtrtorana_
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Posted 13 October 2006 - 09:46 AM
Thanks. I had enquired about the holden sealant but they told me $45 for a tub. Thats what I get for being tight. Would there be any harm in pulling one bolt at a time out and put this new sealant on it or will I have to re-do whole head gasket.
#5
_CHOPPER_
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Posted 13 October 2006 - 11:10 PM
I paid $35 at Allan Mance Holden in Footscray, Melbourne. Lasts forever that stuff, unless it dries out.
#6
_LHoon_
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Posted 15 October 2006 - 07:33 PM
If you pulled one bolt out at a time, you would mess up the torque procedure you're supposed to follow when bolting down the head.Thats what I get for being tight. Would there be any harm in pulling one bolt at a time out and put this new sealant on it or will I have to re-do whole head gasket.
But if you're on a tight budget (like I have been many times in the past), I think you'd be better off loosening them all off initially. Then as you say, apply the Holden sealant one bolt at a time. Once all have the goo, then torque the head down as per the recommended 2-stage torque sequence (working from the centre of the head outwards).
#7
TerrA LX
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Posted 15 October 2006 - 09:09 PM
dont forget to drop the water first.
how did you know it was the bolts leaking?
how did you know it was the bolts leaking?
Edited by ALX76, 15 October 2006 - 09:09 PM.
#8
Struggler
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Posted 15 October 2006 - 09:13 PM
You will be fine to loosen off the bolts, reseal and retension, one at a time.
As a formality I would do it in the recommended order.
If you loosen all bolts off at the same time you will quickly fill your engine with coolant.
As a formality I would do it in the recommended order.
If you loosen all bolts off at the same time you will quickly fill your engine with coolant.
#9
_Toranamuk_
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Posted 15 October 2006 - 10:00 PM
Has anyone ever explained the importance of cleaning out the threads in the block before you re-assemble the top end of your engine ??
All the threads that go into a water jacket should be cleaned out with a cleaning or plug tap before it is re-assmbled, it allows you to correctly tension the head bolts & so that it has the correct clamping force on the gasket.
Even if a bolt "clicks" off at eg, 75ft lb, if it is tight in the thread it may only pull down to 15 tonne clamping force, because the bolt is tight in the thread.
If it is clean & can be tensioned down smoothly & with a higher clamping force (eg, 20+tonne) & will also seal better within the thread.
I only use permatex No 3 on the threads of the bolts, with oil under the bolt head at the contact point with the cyl head.
On engines using ARP studs i use loctite 515 flange sealant around the stud & moly both sides of the washer & top of the studs.
If you deciced on taking the short cut & resealing one bolt at a time, drain all the water using the drain plug in the block, then re-seal 1 bolt at a time, start in the centre, remove the bolt & clean it (wire buff) reseal it & oil the bolt head, & tension it straight to the final tension in 1 smooth action (because the head gasket is allready compressed).
All the threads that go into a water jacket should be cleaned out with a cleaning or plug tap before it is re-assmbled, it allows you to correctly tension the head bolts & so that it has the correct clamping force on the gasket.
Even if a bolt "clicks" off at eg, 75ft lb, if it is tight in the thread it may only pull down to 15 tonne clamping force, because the bolt is tight in the thread.
If it is clean & can be tensioned down smoothly & with a higher clamping force (eg, 20+tonne) & will also seal better within the thread.
I only use permatex No 3 on the threads of the bolts, with oil under the bolt head at the contact point with the cyl head.
On engines using ARP studs i use loctite 515 flange sealant around the stud & moly both sides of the washer & top of the studs.
If you deciced on taking the short cut & resealing one bolt at a time, drain all the water using the drain plug in the block, then re-seal 1 bolt at a time, start in the centre, remove the bolt & clean it (wire buff) reseal it & oil the bolt head, & tension it straight to the final tension in 1 smooth action (because the head gasket is allready compressed).
#10
_gtrtorana_
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Posted 17 October 2006 - 08:00 AM
Thanks for all the advice. I bit the bullet and pulled head off and started again. Cleaned bold threads by running a tap down threads. Used holden saelant and rebuilt motor. All went well. ALX76, I was making sure I was getting full throtle on the rear carb and noticed inside the manifold had a pool of liquid in it. Pulled tripples off and found the liquid to be water and that it was leaking from the sleeve in the intake port that Yella Terra place in their heads.
#11
TerrA LX
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Posted 17 October 2006 - 10:44 AM
you want to make sure youve got that sealed properly or you will have tuning problems.
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