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6 cyl diff + shaft with 308

Started by _Loki_ , Dec 20 2005 11:04 PM

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9 replies to this topic

#1 _Loki_

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Posted 20 December 2005 - 11:04 PM

I probably should have checked on this more before I started my conversion, however when I did, many many people told me the 6 cyl diff and tailshaft [as per it actually fitting] will hold up behind a 308 provided it's not being thrashed with burnouts all over the place etc.

I assume that obviously this is true if the car is being babied around, but how much will these stand up to a simple bootful of gas here and there or a bootful off the line [without wheel spinning]?

Just wondering since my tailshaft will probably need to be cut down slightly [no idea if it matches up yet till v8 + box is sitting in properly] if it would be worth going with a stronger shaft.
Diff I really cant be bothered or afford changing just yet, especially since I have no intention of giving this v8 an incredibly hard time [but who doesn't put the boot in here and there when someone cuts you off or your lane ends at a set of lights and you want to skip traffic :lol:

]

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#2 _JNR_ATE_

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Posted 20 December 2005 - 11:23 PM

If its the orig Banjo, then find yourself a V8 yoke to suit your banjo, Ebay baby yeah.
A 3 inch tailshaft with quality uni"s would be fine for decent accelerator damage.

Cheers
JNR_ATE

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#3 _MYLJ_

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Posted 20 December 2005 - 11:30 PM

If your running a stock auto and converter it will probably be okay with a 2:78 ratio centre, the 6 cyl uni's still wont last . so unless you use a v8 diff yoke and uni it will be a weak set up. HT,HG brougham V8's all had banjo (v8) diffs from factory

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#4 _Loki_

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Posted 20 December 2005 - 11:42 PM

Ah bugger it, time to find a v8 setup to match TH350 and the old banjo, better to be safe now than put the boot in and cringe later.

Edited by Loki, 20 December 2005 - 11:46 PM.

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#5 _Loki_

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Posted 21 December 2005 - 04:07 PM

Got that side of things done, just need to possibly shorten + get T350 yoke attached to the new shaft.
Will find out soon when its all in.

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#6 _rorym_

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Posted 21 December 2005 - 05:41 PM

Loki,
I dropped mine of today to Driveshaft Services in Bundaberg to cut down. Took my old one to ensure it is done to right length. Get a HQ V8 one, the guy just took a yoke and gearbox tube connector out of his stock. The right guys have them already sitting there waiting for you. I am putting new unis in both ends. To answer your question, I slammed it up the Noosa Historic Hillclimb 5 times without any drama but over time I am told the unis of the 6 cylinder fail from the 8 power. Just do it. $121 plus parts for me.
Rory

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#7 Struggler

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Posted 22 December 2005 - 02:11 PM

For what it is worth I had a LX Sunbird (orig. 4 cyl.) that I fitted a 308/P/glide (4000 stall) and used the original tailshaft and welded the original 3.90 centre. Fine spline axles were the only casualties over 2 years of daily driving and monthly low 12 sec passes and the occasional burnout comp. Never had a problem with the 6 cyl unis.

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#8 _Loki_

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Posted 22 December 2005 - 03:50 PM

Cheers.
I already have a v8 tailshaft with the 8cyl uni's in it though.
It measures 302.2cm in length (from a nip up the yoke to end of the uni joint).
So it *may* be looking like it wont need cutting (depends on T350 length).

Can anybody tell me how you get the Flange out of the diff? [so I can change it from 6-cyl to 8-cyl to fit my uni's/tailshaft] I looked in the maintenance manual and it seems like you need a special tool to do it.

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#9 Struggler

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Posted 22 December 2005 - 08:16 PM

You need to hold the pinion still to undo the nut. A big pair of stillsons will work but the pros weld up a tool out of square tube. You then can use a gear puller to get the flange off the splines. It is easier to pull the centre and do it in a vice. Be aware of pinion bearing preload when re-tensioning the flange.