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upper Ball Joints Querie


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#1 Obey 1

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Posted 16 October 2006 - 05:33 AM

HI all... Just wanted to clarify something. I am replacing upper ball joints on an LX and when I went to bolt them on ,the rubber boot that covers the ball joint doesnt slide through the hole in the control arm.If I bolt it up with the rubber boot in place ,the ball joint wont sit hard against the control arm,because it is sitting on the rubber boots Lip , but if the boot is put on after it is bolted down,from underneath it doesnt really stay in place.I assume once the Stub axle is bolted back on this holds the boot in place??
Please correct me if I am Wrong?
Ball joints are PowerMax brand sourced from Rares.
Thanks
Obey 1

#2 _82911_

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Posted 16 October 2006 - 08:19 AM

I worry about the design of the rubber sealing boot in this aplication...
I assembled mine with the rubber sandwiched between the control arm and the ball joint body as per fitting instructions from the manufacturer.
Then I had a ball joint shear all the retaining bolts (high tensile) the one that I did find, the nut had loosened 1/2 way down the bolt.
I wonder if the rubber flogs out and allows the tension on the fastener to relax and therefore releasing the tension on the nuts?Making them come loose....
I don't have any other explanation as to why a new joint with new high tensile bolts and nut assembled with loctite came loose...
Just something to be aware of i guess...
But yeah... factory installation calls for ther boot to sit between the arm and the joint.

Cheers Greg..

#3 Tiny

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Posted 16 October 2006 - 03:05 PM

I dont like that idea!! I'm with you greg! I reckont eh rubber would fail and allow space for movement and therefore breakage...

Can you fit the rubber boot afterwards? Could you lockwire it on afterwards?

Sounds like a silly design to me... what are the options!?

#4 Obey 1

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Posted 16 October 2006 - 04:06 PM

Tiny.. As it is I have Bolted the Joint on with out the rubber ,as I agree that I dont like the idea of the rubber being sandwiched between the metal.The boot then pushes on slightly but wont stay in place.Strange design indeed!! I am going to work on something to hold it in place.
82911.. Dont like the sound of a ball joint letting go !!! Sounds Scary.
Cheers
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#5 _CHIGS_

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Posted 16 October 2006 - 07:11 PM

It is very scary when it lets go. I was very lucky with mine as it collapsed in the driveway of pedders as they were heading for the hoist, the whole right front came down on the wheel, five mionutes earlier i was doing 110k's on the freeway. I hate to think what might have happened.

#6 _82911_

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Posted 16 October 2006 - 09:46 PM

Lucky for you chiggs...
mine went "clunk at 180KPh through turn 1 at eastern creek...
Now that got my attention I tell you! :blink:

Cheers Greg..

#7 Dangerous

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Posted 17 October 2006 - 03:04 PM

Hmmm. Don't use them - I wouldn't. Find a brand that self locates the rubber boot, and don't trust nylock nuts in this application either. Try to find ones that still use the castle nut and split pin to locate it.

82911 - that sounds like a scary ride - I presume the retaining nuts were UNF thread and spring washers?

#8 _82911_

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Posted 17 October 2006 - 03:27 PM

82911 - that sounds like a scary ride - I presume the retaining nuts were UNF thread and spring washers?


yeah that's right they were...
I now install the nut on the upper side, cut the threads down until only 1 turn of thread is exposed and peen the end of the bolts threads so they are captive.
Paranoid....
Fingers crossed....

Cheers Greg..

#9 Toranamat69

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Posted 17 October 2006 - 06:09 PM

I'm with you guys, those balljoints sound dodgy as with the rubber clamped between 2 flat surfaces.

You would not physically be able to torque up the 4 balljoint bolts without completely splitting the rubber.

I would expect the outcome you discovered Greg - once those bolts loosened off. In that type of a bolted join, it is the friction between the clamped surfaces that should take the shear force, not the bolts.
With a bit of slop in the holes so it can get a run up, those bolts would have no chance.


See if you can take those back and buy some others - I use the Repco sealed ones for a couple of reasons but I am not sure which are the best to use.

M@

#10 _JBird_

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Posted 18 October 2006 - 12:15 AM

Yeah saving a couple of bucks isn't worth your life. When a balljoint lets go for the nut unthreads itself and allows your wheel to move upwards pressing in your guard and ruining what once was a perfect panel ........ :huh: :cry: .... OR it lets go at 110clicks and you go into a pole.

82911 what happened then???? Did you pull over or roll to your near-doom?




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