cotter pins

hi i was wondering if the cotter pins have to go in a certain way into the uni and coupling and how far should i put then in how tight i meant

The end with the thread goes in first, spin the steering knuckle around the steering shaft till the hole lines up with the cut out on the shaft. The cotter pin is hard to take out, but should be easy to push in, if your pushing too much you haven't got the cut-out lined up properly. Just tighten the nut till whenever. Not enough space for a torque wrench so use your commonsense instead. Hope that helped. Oh an 'Nylock' nuts would be good.

cheers jbird gladly appreciated

As ^ from JBird. The manual lists the torque req for "retaining" the cotter pins at 14Nm.......80Nm would be what is req for a wheel nut.
Generally, the size of the nut will give you a reasonable idea of what torque is required and will be dictated by the length of the spanner you can fit on it. Do them up tight enough with a 3/8 spanner(i think) and use only your wrist to tighten.....if you know what I mean.(rather than using a socket ratchet where youll get more leverage) What is important is to actually check and tighten them again if necessary over the 1st few hours of driving.........as they can settle even further.......if the pins become loose they will wear quickly. I read "somewhere", that for best seating; using the pin removal tool to actually push them in was reccommended as superior to pushing them or tapping and pulling them through to the correct tension with the spanner........but cant remember the source.......just a thought.
In regards to the orientation of which way they go in, afaik it doesnt matter........however, come time to remove them you want the nut end facing up when the pin is on the engine side of the shaft to be able to easily get at it with a hitting implement or to be able to use the removal tool more easily, it may even be impossible to use the tool on the very bottom one if it is installed in the reverse direction.

Edited by devilsadvocate, 23 October 2006 - 06:40 AM.

Yeap orientation is definitely something to keep in mind. As they are a bitch to get out. As with all suspension parts after install listen out for funny noises (things breaking/letting go) and doesn't hurt to double check. I agree I think it is a good idea to tighten up the cotter pin to just enough, then drive around and let it settle further and then retighten just to avoid splitting threads. Good luck and let us know how you go.

cheers fellas ive replaced my coupling and its very tight to get the intermediate shaft threw is this common with aftermarket ones because ive got the shaft in but it needs to be turned slightly to get a good fit for the cotter pin but theresno play to adjust sumone told me to put the pin threw and it will find alignment when i did it up i dont no about this idea?

Do you mean the coupling is very tight on the shaft, there were a batch of some from GM where the holes werent drilled out properly to 1/2inch and wouldnt go on the shafts at all.

really i didnt no that and thats wat i meant devil i can get it on but carnt turn it so that the pin can slip in

perhaps pull it apart again and put some fine lubricant on the shaft, triflow or similar, or perhap reattach marking the coupling and shaft to get the notch in line.......or take your chances and redrill it with a half inch drill bit, it would want to be perfectly straight.......if its new....Id take it back.

Try lining up the shaft from the steering with the cut-out on the rack shaft, if you get what I mean, first. Don't worry too much about the alignment, as long as the rack is centred you can pull the steergin wheel off and put that right later. Just turn the steering wheel coupling and mark it up like DA said.