Hi Guys,
Im having some trouble getting the upper ball joint bolt on above the stub axle. The old part of the ball joint keeps turning and I cant hold it still.
The balljoints are a bit worn and leaking so Im guessing I may as well get new ones while Ive got half the suspension out to save me doing it later.
How is this done? It doesnt look like I can do them at home.
Do I just take all 4 control arms off and take them to any old mechanic and get them to swap them over to new ones?
Any ideas what they will charge me for this?
Cheers,
Dan
Balljoints question.
Started by
_dansedgli_
, Dec 25 2005 12:33 PM
14 replies to this topic
#2
_73LJWhiteSL_
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Posted 25 December 2005 - 01:02 PM
From what i understand ball joints need to be pressed out to get them out. So yes you will need to take them to a mechanic or someone.
No idea on cost, but if you supply the new ball joints and all parts it should be next to nothing if i am right in assuming the pressing out and in should only take 5 - 15 to do the whole job
Steve
No idea on cost, but if you supply the new ball joints and all parts it should be next to nothing if i am right in assuming the pressing out and in should only take 5 - 15 to do the whole job
Steve
Edited by 73LJWhiteSL, 25 December 2005 - 01:04 PM.
#3
_dansedgli_
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Posted 25 December 2005 - 02:14 PM
Cool, thanks mate, looks like Ill be spending all afternoon getting the control arms off.
At least I wont have to do them again for a while afterwards.
These little things are seriously slowing me down :(
At least I wont have to do them again for a while afterwards.
These little things are seriously slowing me down :(
#4
_jimjet61_
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Posted 25 December 2005 - 02:57 PM
The upper ball joints are rivetted in when original. Just get an angle grinder and grind off the rivets, knock out old ball joint and replace with the bolts supplied in with the new ball joint. Bottom ones are pressed in, but they can normally be replaced with a hammer and a suitable drift. A press is preferable if you have access to one. Good Luck, Jim
#5
_dansedgli_
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Posted 25 December 2005 - 03:18 PM
Thanks for the reply, can the upper ball joints be done in the car?
I wish some shops were open!
I wish some shops were open!
#7
_dansedgli_
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Posted 25 December 2005 - 06:59 PM
Thanks mate, ill have a crack at it tomorrow.
#8
surfmaster
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Posted 25 December 2005 - 07:29 PM
Don't let the spring fly out when you undo the stub axle, put a jack under the lower control arm. You should put stands under the chassis rails (body) - you can then use a jack under the lower control arm (with the stub axle still connected) to put pressure on the upper ball joint so you can undo the castellated nut - the pressure should stop the ball joint spindle from turning. Check that the upper inner bushes don't need doing as well, if you are going this far you may as well do it properly - its going to need a wheel alignment when your done in any case.
#9
_73LJWhiteSL_
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Posted 26 December 2005 - 10:25 AM
Sorry mate, didn't mean to steer you wrong with the ball joints. I thought both bottom and top were pressed in, but then i have never removed them so i wasn't 100% sure.
Steve
Steve
#10
_dansedgli_
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Posted 26 December 2005 - 11:52 AM
Thanks guys, I went and bought the 2 balljoints. The upper one came with bolts so Ill put that in myself today.
They didnt keep the inner control arm bush in stock so I have to go back and get one wednesday. Ill get that and the lower balljoint pressed in at the mechanics when they open after christmas break.
Thanks again for the help.
They didnt keep the inner control arm bush in stock so I have to go back and get one wednesday. Ill get that and the lower balljoint pressed in at the mechanics when they open after christmas break.
Thanks again for the help.
#11
_dansedgli_
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Posted 26 December 2005 - 02:10 PM
Bloody hell, getting those 35 year old rivets out was a marathon and a half!! 
I just got it out after starting just after my last post.
Lots of grinding and drilling was involved. The balljoint didnt want to budge!
Ah well, putting the new one in looks like it will be easy then its off to drink beer.
I just got it out after starting just after my last post.
Lots of grinding and drilling was involved. The balljoint didnt want to budge!
Ah well, putting the new one in looks like it will be easy then its off to drink beer.
#12
gtrboyy
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Posted 26 December 2005 - 03:45 PM
It took me some time to do mine & I had them out of the car but I also replaced the bushes so I wouldnt have to bother with them again.
#13
_dansedgli_
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Posted 26 December 2005 - 03:53 PM
The new one is all good. It took no time to get back in.
I had to order another bush for the bar that goes from the control arm bakwards to the Km frame, anyone know what it is called? Its missing completely on one side :(
I had to order another bush for the bar that goes from the control arm bakwards to the Km frame, anyone know what it is called? Its missing completely on one side :(
#14
gtrboyy
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Posted 26 December 2005 - 09:05 PM
Thats the control/radius rod,make sure they arent bent & I think its better to go nolathane on those ones.Its also what they adjust for caster.
#15
_dansedgli_
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Posted 26 December 2005 - 10:26 PM
Thanks mate, thats the one I ordered. Should be here Friday.
The rest of the front end has nolathane so I ordered a nolathane one to match.
I cant wait to get the car sitting on its wheels again. Then the suspension/brakes/diff will well and truly be done. Yay!!
Only engine and bodywork left! I cant wait to fire it up!
The rest of the front end has nolathane so I ordered a nolathane one to match.
I cant wait to get the car sitting on its wheels again. Then the suspension/brakes/diff will well and truly be done. Yay!!
Only engine and bodywork left! I cant wait to fire it up!
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