hi ive fitted my motor to my lh im running efi heads and had to use the hq extractors as i needed one and three quarter primaries, problem is the extractor hits on the steering uni shaft, which i knew was going to happen. has anyone done this before and if so how did they go about it
extractors hitting steering uni
Started by
_2wild4u_
, Dec 26 2005 12:50 AM
10 replies to this topic
#2
_2wild4u_
_2wild4u_
-
- Guests
Posted 27 December 2005 - 10:17 PM
so im guessing im the only unlucky one??????????
#3
Racehatch
-
- Members
-
- 1,027 posts
Forum Fixture
- Location:Adelaide
- Joined: 07-November 05
Posted 27 December 2005 - 10:53 PM
Yeah I've had the same problem, the nut end of the pin would hit the extractors when turning, I found I was able to loosen both the steering knuckle and the rag joint pins, and move them both in relation to where the extractors go.... but there is only limited movement there....
#4
_Yella SLuR_
_Yella SLuR_
-
- Guests
Posted 31 December 2005 - 10:29 AM
Poke the extractors up vertically (dead vertical) behind the steering joint (i.e. the cabin side of the coupling). Once it is up and clear, level the extractors out to where they should go. Obviously requires a hoist or pit. Don't know if you can do it from above, may be a possibility.
#5
_Herne_
_Herne_
-
- Guests
Posted 31 December 2005 - 10:46 AM
Not exactly sure whats happening here as I am not familiar with that problem but here is my thought - Would using a double solid knuckle help ??? It's an A9X setup thing. I am thinking it might?? give you a tad more room?
Disregard this if it turns out to be utter rubbish and will not give you any more room.
Maybe it's an idea worth looking at.
Maybe not
Cheers
Herne
Disregard this if it turns out to be utter rubbish and will not give you any more room.
Maybe it's an idea worth looking at.
Maybe not
Cheers
Herne
#6
_Yella SLuR_
_Yella SLuR_
-
- Guests
Posted 01 January 2006 - 01:14 AM
After spending 3 hours cursing and swearing at my extractors, I take credit for knowing what I'm talking about on this one. Cursed it once I tried the vertical thing out, it was so easy!!!!
Life sucks like that sometimes!!!
Oh, in the 3 hours I also sliced the crap out of the new nylothane flexible link.
Hope it saves you some time!!!! Only unknown is the HQ thing.
Life sucks like that sometimes!!!
Oh, in the 3 hours I also sliced the crap out of the new nylothane flexible link.
Hope it saves you some time!!!! Only unknown is the HQ thing.
Edited by Yella SLuR, 01 January 2006 - 01:15 AM.
#7
LS1LX
-
- Members
-
- 1,931 posts
Forum Fixture
- Location:Sydney
- Joined: 22-November 05
Posted 01 January 2006 - 09:01 AM
A9X does NOT have the double knuckle, all LH/X had the rubber coupling and single steel knuckle.Not exactly sure whats happening here as I am not familiar with that problem but here is my thought - Would using a double solid knuckle help ??? It's an A9X setup thing. I am thinking it might?? give you a tad more room?
Disregard this if it turns out to be utter rubbish and will not give you any more room.
Maybe it's an idea worth looking at.
Maybe not
Cheers
Herne
Your right though its worth a shot, may give him that touch more room, or else bend the pipe a touch, thats why never buy pipes and get them HPC coated first, always trial fit them then send them off to be coated.
#8
_2wild4u_
_2wild4u_
-
- Guests
Posted 01 January 2006 - 01:27 PM
thanks for the replies, has anyone got a pic of the double linkage????
#9
_Herne_
_Herne_
-
- Guests
Posted 01 January 2006 - 02:07 PM
Sorry I just tried to photograph mine and I cannot get the camera in close enough to get you a shot.... Hopefully someone else may have a car partially stripped or something and may be able to supply you with a photo. When you look at your steering knuckles I believe you have one solid one and one with a round looking object filled with a webbing /rubber absorber type unit. I am not sure what they are called. No doubt someone here will come up with the right name and even a part number 
Some very clever people on this forum. Anyway replace the round shock absorber type one (it does not like your normal shockies) lol... with a solid knuckle as per the lower one. i warn you now not all like this setup as it makes you feel the steering ie nothing to absorb road shock I thought it was a standard feature on A9X's but am told this is not so, perhaps a few race models have this setup??
The knuckles are removed via a cotter pin type setup as per a bicycle crank arm (I am told).
Cheers
Herne
Some very clever people on this forum. Anyway replace the round shock absorber type one (it does not like your normal shockies) lol... with a solid knuckle as per the lower one. i warn you now not all like this setup as it makes you feel the steering ie nothing to absorb road shock I thought it was a standard feature on A9X's but am told this is not so, perhaps a few race models have this setup??The knuckles are removed via a cotter pin type setup as per a bicycle crank arm (I am told).
Cheers
Herne
#10
_Jewboy_
_Jewboy_
-
- Guests
Posted 01 January 2006 - 10:44 PM
A lot of people call it a rag joint but its really a steering coupling. Yeah they are fitted with cotter pins and should be pressed out but if your careful you can knock them out with the nut on the end of the threads. There is big possibility to damage them, i damaged mine and had to recut the threads since i didn't want to pay $20 ea for new ones.
#11
_2wild4u_
_2wild4u_
-
- Guests
Posted 02 January 2006 - 01:56 AM
hi, thanks again everyone, removing the rag joint may be an option although its mainly rubs on the shaft between the rag joint and the uni joint, what if i get a smaller diameter shaft machined up in billet or something, aslong as its a better metal i couldnt see there being a problem, i only need a bit more clearance in that area to allow for motor movement
0 user(s) are reading this topic
0 members, 0 guests, 0 anonymous users
