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(Mostly) Front End Work for Roadworthy

Started by _Pleiades_ , Nov 08 2006 04:13 PM

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13 replies to this topic

#1 _Pleiades_

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Posted 08 November 2006 - 04:13 PM

Took the LC in for a Roadworthy, as it's been out of reg for nearly a year, and got me quite a list back. I reckon I can handle most of it myself, but not sure about a couple, as I've not done any of this on a Torana before (done plenty of my old EK's and HR). I'll append "***" to the one's I'm not sure about, so if you know anything about it, can you let me know? And any tips on the rest would be appreciated too (ie, I've been told that some bushes should be rubber, nolathane is good for others).

There is some other minor stuff, but this is what I'm not 100% on. Is there anything here beyond the average backyarder, with a good (Holden knowledgeable) mate to call on if I'm in trouble? I can handle the tools, I've replaced most of the front end in a Mk I Capri, engine, diff, bearings, etc in the HR, so I'm not doubting that I know how to spin a spanner.

Cheers.

Steering Rack Worn (some lateral movement)
Both Lower Control Arm Inner Bushes Worn ***
Front Caster Rod Rubbers Worn
2 Bottom Ball Joints Worn ***
2 Tie Rod Ends Worn ***
2 Top Bump Stoppers Worn
Rear Wheel Cylinder Leaks (Brakes)
Top Control Arm Bushes Worn
Brake Warning Light Not Working

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#2 _CHOPPER_

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Posted 08 November 2006 - 04:18 PM

Ball joints and bushes , take the control arms to a place such as Pedderrs and they can press in new ones. Tie rod ends are fairly simple to replace. Undo the lock nut on the steering rack and steering arm. Hit the steering arm where the tie rod end connects with a hammer. This should loosen the tie rod end from the taper. Hopefully, the tie rod end will freely undo off the rack. Installation is similar to removal, except the hammer shouldn't be required.

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#3 _DocDamage_

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Posted 08 November 2006 - 04:26 PM

We had a loose rack we couldn't tighten because the mounting holes in the rack & crossmember had opened up (the movement made the hole bigger). Fixed with bigger diameter bolts.

Edited by DocDamage, 08 November 2006 - 04:28 PM.

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#4 _JBird_

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Posted 08 November 2006 - 05:09 PM

Remember to put split pins back in all castellated nuts on the balljoints and tie rod ends.

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#5 Toranamat69

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Posted 08 November 2006 - 06:57 PM

G'day Mate,

That is pretty much a full front end rebuild.
I'd be pulling it out and painting it all up nicely before putting all the new bits back in. It is very tricky to do the upper control arms in the car - the only way I have seen it done was with an air chiesel.
So you can just do it with the subframe remaining in the car but you may find the subframe bushes also need replacing and needs to be removed anyhow.

Maybe think about springs and shocks whilst you are there.

You will need to support the engine somehow to remove the front subframe.

For the brake warning light, is the wire connected? It probably needs to be reset and/or the wire plugged back in. If the switch needs to be reset I am pretty sure you just remove the switch from the prop valve and the plunger should reset and then put the switch back in. voi la!
Wheel cylinders are easy - just buy whole new cylinders - very likely need some new brake shoes too if the oil has gotten into them.

M@

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#6 _JBird_

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Posted 08 November 2006 - 07:06 PM

Just use rubbers, they'd be a lot cheaper to do the whole front end. On ebay I see kits going for less than $100. You can also buy brand new from Holden spares I think. Same goes for the balljoints. I think.

I'm not sure about mixing and matching Urethane for the front end, but that appears to be the case for the rear end (Urethane in diff housing, Rubber for trailing arms to floor).

If your using urethane for the front end the consensus is to use plenty of grease to minimise the squeaking and to use the 'softest' grade urethane. Nolathane are one hardness, Superpro use different grades for different sections and I'm not sure on the Noltec brand. Most people say that Noltec are alot better because they have a bit more 'give' than the other brands whilst still retaining hardness.

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#7 shanegtr

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Posted 09 November 2006 - 08:45 AM

Ball joints and bushes , take the control arms to a place such as Pedderrs and they can press in new ones. Tie rod ends are fairly simple to replace. Undo the lock nut on the steering rack and steering arm. Hit the steering arm where the tie rod end connects with a hammer. This should loosen the tie rod end from the taper. Hopefully, the tie rod end will freely undo off the rack. Installation is similar to removal, except the hammer shouldn't be required.

I've also found that putting some weight on the taper, (in the direction the taper shaft come out of its hole with a pinch bar) at the same time as hitting the location you mentioned with the hammer works well

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#8 _UCV80_

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Posted 09 November 2006 - 09:05 AM

Buy all you bushes and joints from supercheap auto then pull front end down and take the bits to the shop... :spoton:

i just got some bushes and joints pressed in yesterday, was too easy

its not worth trying to do it your self. i did most of my front end by myself and its wasnt worth the effort.

:spoton:

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#9 ls2lxhatch

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Posted 09 November 2006 - 10:25 AM

Sometimes people over tighten the ball joints and tie rod ends to the point where they are almost impossible to remove.

You should be able to hire a good quality ball joint remover or you can buy a reasonable quality ball joint remover at Supercheap/Repco for under $30. This will make removing the stub axle from the ball joint and tie rod end from steering arm a lot easier. There are two types, one looks like a wedge and the other looks like a clamp, I used the clamp style. The one I bought from Repco needed to be widened to fit over the lower ball joint shaft.

You may also want a spring compressor to make seating the springs correctly easier. I have not had any success on front suspension with spring compressors with clamps at either end that you see at Supercheap. I made a spring compressor using a threaded rod which is inserted through the K-frame where the top of the shock mounts and the into a steel plate that lifts the spring. A nut and washer at the shock mount is used to compress the spring.

If you have acccess to a trailer/ute then would be easier and should not cost much more (assuming you have to hire/buy tools ) to just take the complete K-frame to a suspension place and pay them to put it apart and put it back together.

Edited by AndyCullen, 09 November 2006 - 10:26 AM.

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#10 _DocDamage_

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Posted 09 November 2006 - 10:38 AM

With the wedge type ball joint remover, a claw hammer is useless, not heavy enough. You need at least a lumpy, I use a sledge hammer & get 30 yo ones out first hit. :spoton:

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#11 _LX8VD69_

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Posted 09 November 2006 - 11:21 AM

With the wedge type ball joint remover, a claw hammer is useless, not heavy enough. You need at least a lumpy, I use a sledge hammer & get 30 yo ones out first hit.

you need to eat your weeties more often doc, i knocked mine out with a wedge fork and a rubber mallet, mind you i have been known to be ham fisted so maybe it worked in my favour for once :tease:

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#12 _DocDamage_

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Posted 09 November 2006 - 11:32 AM

I'm only a skinny little fella

. The ball joints came out of the ex-road\drag LH with claw hammer easy enough, but the rusty old HZ ute with 650,000 k's on the clock that I bought from the south coast took several hits, even with the sledgey.

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#13 _LX8VD69_

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Posted 09 November 2006 - 11:42 AM

I'm only a skinny little fella . The ball joints came out of the ex-road\drag LH with claw hammer easy enough, but the rusty old HZ ute with 650,000 k's on the clock that I bought from the south coast took several hits, even with the sledgey.

that explains everything then, im not too small infact if i was a bit taller id be a bit scary i think

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#14 _Pleiades_

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Posted 10 November 2006 - 10:36 AM

Thanks heaps for replies. Flat out at work today, will look at these more closely during the weekend.

Anyone got a rough idea of what this might cost me?