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installing rust repair sections

Started by _chevy_253_torana_ , Nov 09 2006 08:47 PM

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21 replies to this topic

#1 _chevy_253_torana_

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Posted 09 November 2006 - 08:47 PM

hey all
with the monaro i have been thinking because i dont have a mig welder yet to get that glue they assemble the vt commos etc with and install the rust repair sections with this instead

anyone done this before ?? if so does it hold up and no want to drop or fall out ??

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#2 _Yella SLuR_

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Posted 09 November 2006 - 08:54 PM

Mmm, dunno. Adhesives are a whole area of knowledge unto themselves.

Can you borrow a MIG, hire one, or get hold of an oxy set?

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#3 _CHOPPER_

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Posted 09 November 2006 - 08:55 PM

I have done much rougher repairs than that before and they managed to hang in place for a couple of years. Ideally do it properly the first time.

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#4 TerrA LX

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Posted 09 November 2006 - 09:05 PM

as long as its not structual, give it a go, but why not wait and do it properly the first time.

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#5 _Leakey_

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Posted 10 November 2006 - 09:21 AM

Funny you bring this up Chev' as I am considering the same thing.

The dreaded top part of the hatch area, in between the hinges has
pretty much gone to being paint only!!. I was going to get a piece
cut and grind out the rust, and weld this in, but as a crappy welder,
I was worried about warping the roof and making more problems
for myself.

So I thought as an interim, I might glue in a panel, plastic or metal,
that would keep the water out and stop further damage. Painted up,
and blended in [read bog] you would never know the difference.

I was thinking of using a liquid nails type adhesive, but will ring the
Sikaflex info line to see if they have a product that will suit. What you
described is the go. They probably supply it to GM.

Cheers, Leakey

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#6 _Oldn64_

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Posted 10 November 2006 - 09:32 AM

Adhesives have come a long way in the last 12 years. And leaps and bowdens (SP [excuse me I have had no sleep in the last 48 hours]) There is a huge following in the panel scene, of glue repairs together. Most of this has come about due to two main areas. Firstly the ability to not warp the panels when fixing/repairing sections of body, and secondly is so the rust does not set in/return. Obviously this is only panel damage not structual, but I suggest you talk to high end panel beaters as see what there recommendation are. I know I have had a few suggest exactly that, not sure whether the stuff it the same as the VT or whether it is just a similar product but yes it is possible.

Cheers

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#7 racean69

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Posted 10 November 2006 - 09:36 AM

I don't know anything about this, but when these panels(new cars) are glued are they overlapped?

How do you butt together a rust repair section with glue?

If you overlap there is going to be an high spot. Unless you fold in a rebate/step or something.

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#8 _Yella SLuR_

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Posted 10 November 2006 - 09:49 AM

Adhesive is all about cleanliness of the bonded surfaces, and total area of bonded surface. I'd be putting metal behind the repair, half in on original metal, and the other half haning out to take the repair panel. Quality will result in how well the repair panel mates with the cut-out, but will require a touch of bog for the small gaps.

I believe most the panel beaters use stuff they call "Urethane". Whether or not that is it's true name or not is another story.

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#9 rodomo

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Posted 10 November 2006 - 02:17 PM

Next time you see a late model bus or coach, have a look at whats holding in the 1 metre x 2 metre side windows. Nothing but sikaflex.

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#10 _Leakey_

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Posted 10 November 2006 - 04:00 PM

Good point Rob, and for that matter 767's are held together with d/s tape!!

I think most of the big side panels on coaches are also glued on.

- Leakey

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#11 _CHOPPER_

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Posted 10 November 2006 - 05:21 PM

And 747 wings are held in by two Jesus pins. Because if they let go, you'll see Jesus.

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#12 rodomo

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Posted 11 November 2006 - 08:45 AM

I think most of the big side panels on coaches are also glued on.

Yes, they are called "stretch" panels.

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#13 _chevy_253_torana_

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Posted 15 November 2006 - 10:20 AM

it sounds like the go i was talking to the blokes down at perrows paint in bendigo the other day

it costs 50 bucks a shot and il need a gun to shoot it out of (he wasnt sure on the price)

its the same stuff vts are glued together with

http://www.gmh-toran...opic=10491&st=0

theres one of the sections il be doing in there somewhere also gotta do the scuttle panels and a couple of other sections as well

that tab idea of the metal behind to beef it up sounds alright il have to talk to the boss about it tonight (dad)

if this stuff will hold il be leaning towards it cause migs are good but the as others have said the glue wont warp and wont trap in more rust

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#14 _CHOPPER_

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Posted 15 November 2006 - 11:09 AM

it costs 50 bucks a shot and il need a gun to shoot it out of

I've got a couple of .22 rifles in the garage.

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#15 rodomo

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Posted 16 November 2006 - 03:44 PM

Black sikaflex, approx. $18 at Bunnings
Caulking gun, approx. $5 at Bunnings

Seeing you standing on your head squirting up side down and getting covered in black shit?

Priceless! :tease:

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#16 _CHOPPER_

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Posted 16 November 2006 - 04:54 PM

I paid about $4 for my tubes of silly gasket from bunnings. I'll sell them to you for $15, how does that sound Rob?

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#17 _Yella SLuR_

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Posted 16 November 2006 - 05:05 PM

Sikaflex is a manufacturer's name, they make a whole range of adhesives, fillers and sealers. You need to research the specific adhesive for the application.

Edited by Yella SLuR, 16 November 2006 - 05:05 PM.

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#18 MRLXSS

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Posted 16 November 2006 - 05:24 PM

if you do go this route, i would love to see some pics of the finish you get.

Is this stuff sandable? i have heard there is a silicon or something that can be sanded and painted over...

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#19 Toranavista

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Posted 16 November 2006 - 06:24 PM

Black sikaflex, approx. $18 at Bunnings
Caulking gun, approx. $5 at Bunnings

Seeing you standing on your head squirting up side down and getting covered in black shit?

Priceless!

Very Clever :spoton:

Ever thought of getting into advertising

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#20 rodomo

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Posted 16 November 2006 - 07:21 PM

I don't know if sikaflex is sandable but it is paintable. When I welded the drip rails into my son's hatch I filled the joints with it and painted in acrylic. It can be trowelled like bog. With the bus windows, they would have about 1/2" gap between the glass and the body panel (the glass gets stuck to the frame, not the panels). The glass and the panel are masked and the sikaflex trowelled in with a bog applicator. To finish it is trowelled and wiped with metho on the trowel or rag. When dry and the tape removed, the result is similar to the lip as if you had painted black outs on your car.

It is available in different grades, black is the strongest from memory, bunnings also have white which takes longer to dry.

For best results I would roughen up panels and prep them with metho.

Gloves recommended, clean up with metho before it drys.

Chopper: you could glue your panels onto your drag car with this stuff!
Might flex a bit though :tease: