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HQ stub axles(spindles)

Started by _L31SLR_ , Nov 11 2006 01:08 PM

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111 replies to this topic

#1 _L31SLR_

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Posted 11 November 2006 - 01:08 PM

G'day all
I am in the middle of a front and rear brake up grade on the old girl and part of the conversion involves changing to HQ stub axles. I have read all the posts on here about changing to HQ stubs but have not really come up with a cut and dry method for a hassle free stub axle changeover. So far these are the things that I have read that seem to be common between all of the discussions.

1. Changing to A9X control arms available from Harrop Engineering.

2. A good starting point for wheel alignment is-

Castor +0.5
Camber -1
Toe in 2.5mm

3. Mounting top steering control arms 1" lower than standard

4. Replacing all worn ball joints, bushes etc

Can anyone please tell me what else I have missed or what else needs to be done to change to these stub axles and have the car still handle and steer well?

The stub axles I have got are standard HQ, I am using 15"x8" Simmons wheels with 225x60x15 tyres (50/50) offset

Posted Image

Thanks to Dattoman for hooking me up with all the new brake components and look forward to hearing all your advice.

Cheers
Charlie

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#2 _CHOPPER_

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Posted 11 November 2006 - 05:29 PM

I will firstly assume you are going to use HQ discs and calipers. Make sure the stub axles are mounted so the calipers are at the front of the stubs. With the top control arm lowering, this would depend on what vehicle you have. Some Toranas already have the top control arms in the lower position. What model do you have? LH, LX pre RTS, LX RTS or UC?

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#3 _L31SLR_

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Posted 11 November 2006 - 05:36 PM

G'day Chopper
Yes I am using HQ discs and the Wilwood calipers that are in the picture(bolt straight up to the HQ stub axles) I have an LH torana.
Cheers for your help
Charlie

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#4 _CHOPPER_

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Posted 11 November 2006 - 06:00 PM

I also want to clear up another issue, you do mean Harrop steering arms, don't you? With lowering the top arms, Toranamat has been plotting the camber curves for different heights. Possibly best to contact him, or find the thread hae has been posting all this info in. I can't find it ATM, otherwise I would've posted a link.

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#5 _L31SLR_

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Posted 11 November 2006 - 06:15 PM

I'm sure the post I read referred to them as control arms available from Harrop Engineering? Maybe it is just a play on words and talking about the same thing, but when technically control & steering arms are different? I'm not 100% sure what I need and am just trying to get everythung organised and together before I start as I live in a really remote location. I'm basically trying to steal everyones elses knowledge to make it too easy for me!!!!!!!!!!!
Please Help Me
Charlie

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#6 _CHOPPER_

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Posted 11 November 2006 - 06:35 PM

Steering arms connect the tie rod ends to the stub axles.

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#7 _L31SLR_

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Posted 11 November 2006 - 07:17 PM

Do you usually change the steering arms when you do this conversion or is it not required?

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#8 _CHOPPER_

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Posted 11 November 2006 - 10:48 PM

When using HQ stubs on an LH - UC front end, it induces a lot of bumpsteer. GMH found this out with the L34 and A9X Toranas and made the special steering arms. The Harrop ones are a copy of them.

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#9 _L31SLR_

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Posted 12 November 2006 - 12:24 AM

Thanks for the information Chopper. If you were going to change to HQ stub axles would you order the steering arms before you started or would you just fit the new stub axles and see how everything shapes up? Have you bought the steering arms before and do you remember approx how much they were?
Thanks again for your help
Charlie

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#10 _JBird_

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Posted 12 November 2006 - 12:37 AM

It's been recommended to get them to reduce bumpsteer.
To quote CHOPPER:

"The $297 Harrop arms reduce bump steer. If you don't want your tyres chopped out and want it to have predictable steering during suspension travel, spend the cash."

I'd say do it as whole to save you the trouble.

J

P.S Those Wilwoods look horn.
Also I hope those simmons clear. I hear the bolts and the dish cause it to foul on brakes. :<_<:

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#11 _CHOPPER_

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Posted 12 November 2006 - 03:26 AM

Correct. 15" Simmons are reknown for the bolts fouling, normally on the calipers. And just buy the Harrop arms. I never recomend something that isn't required. If I feel something is optional, then I will say that.

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#12 _torana_

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Posted 12 November 2006 - 12:30 PM

hi charlie
Ive done the mod your talking about, check my thread http://www.gmh-toran...?showtopic=1012 and feel free to ask me any questions.

I used hq stubs, harrop arms and wb brakes and 15 inch simmons. Nothing rubs, and its all sweet.

cheers julian

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#13 _L31SLR_

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Posted 12 November 2006 - 02:53 PM

Thanks torana, CHOPPER and Jbird for your help. I missed your thread torana because of the title but now I have seen the light. I'll order the rest of the bits I need and keep you all posted as to how things are going once I get started.
Cheers
Charlie

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#14 _rorym_

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Posted 12 November 2006 - 09:53 PM

So...Here is where I get lost...I have the HX stubs...the Wilwoods are coming..as are the Harrop arms...now with the left to right HQ/X stub swap..the calipers go to the rear?..Yes..or do I leave them as they were left and right..fit the Wilwoods and the Harrop arms as per standard with the calipers at the front?..I am getting totally confused now.
R

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#15 dattoman

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Posted 12 November 2006 - 10:08 PM

Pretty sure its calipers to the back so they don't foul the tierod ends
Though....... with Harrop arms they may clear

Trial fit lots

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#16 _torana_

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Posted 13 November 2006 - 03:25 PM

swap stubs from left to right, harrop steering arms to prevent bump steer, and calipers on the front ( may have to grind bracket ) if you put the calipers on the rear ( wb ones anyway ) on full lock the upper swing arm pushes the pads. Not good

mind if i ask how much the wilwoods cost dattoman? ( I would want to grind them to fit )

cheers julian

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#17 A9X

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Name:Welby
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Posted 13 November 2006 - 05:32 PM

While you're at it Datto,

Can you explain the pro's & Con's for having the caliper front & rear mounted?

Thanks

Welby

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#18 _workinprogress_

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Posted 13 November 2006 - 05:55 PM

hi. i really dont mean to steal this thread but was about to do the same swap on my car. Does anyone know of whats different if your doing the swap on a uc?

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#19 _CHOPPER_

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Posted 13 November 2006 - 07:24 PM

Due to the UC offset top arms, it would be more difficult to rear mount the calipers.

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#20 _rorym_

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Posted 21 November 2006 - 05:34 PM

Interested to find out how Charlie went..I trial fit the Wilwoods in place today without an arm attach and there appears to be heaps of room for the tierod end...I will fit a disc and arm then try them again.
R

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#21 _rorym_

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Posted 21 November 2006 - 05:50 PM

I will firstly assume you are going to use HQ discs and calipers. Make sure the stub axles are mounted so the calipers are at the front of the stubs. With the top control arm lowering, this would depend on what vehicle you have. Some Toranas already have the top control arms in the lower position. What model do you have? LH, LX pre RTS, LX RTS or UC?

Anyone expand on lowering the top control arm on an LH?..Is this the same exercise as the XU1?..I dont have an LH/X body here to eyeball what you are actually talking about.
Rory

Edited by rorym, 21 November 2006 - 05:50 PM.

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#22 A9X

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Name:Welby
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Posted 21 November 2006 - 05:59 PM

Rory, there are some pics here somewhere that show the difference between the crossmembers,
similar thread, maybe less than 4 weeks old.
Sorry i can't link you to the thread.

Welby

yes i can

http://www.gmh-torana.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=9884&st=30&hl=control+arm

Edited by A9X, 21 November 2006 - 06:03 PM.

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#23 _rorym_

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Posted 21 November 2006 - 07:08 PM

Shit ! Thanks Welby!...I will reserve a week to read it! Loll!...Mat is on the money..The UC is best for std arms..I will be running 3.5 neg so the effect..as he explains it..is lessened...will try the UC ones first then go from there..Matt is a legend! :spoton:

So the lower top arms deal is exactly the same as the XU1 move of lowering them..sweet...too easy...I love this site!
R

Edited by rorym, 21 November 2006 - 07:11 PM.

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#24 _L31SLR_

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Posted 21 November 2006 - 07:41 PM

I need to order my steering arms from Harrop before I can go much further so I won't be much help for a while. Let's all keep each other posted on our progress as there appears to be a few of us doing the same job at the same time. Lots of pictures!
L31SLR

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#25 _rorym_

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Posted 21 November 2006 - 08:27 PM

Mate try some UCs from the wreckers first..I am not convinced with the amount of neg camber I will be running on the race car I will notice stuff all according to Matts thread.
R