hi guys,
since putting in the 308/m21 combo, ive noticed that when i take off in first, the rear sorta skips, like its got a locked diff.
I watched the guy drive it in to get new tyres, and it did it, it looked like the right rear tyre just jumped and squealed a little?
It doesnt really happen if i get the revs a fair way up, and the diff is a 3.55.
Any ideas?
A1
rear of the car shudders...
Started by
_draglc_
, Nov 14 2006 01:44 PM
20 replies to this topic
#2
TerrA LX
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Posted 14 November 2006 - 02:26 PM
if its LSD then maybe its on its last legs
#4
TerrA LX
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Posted 14 November 2006 - 06:01 PM
ouch, probably even worse then.
jack one wheel up and give it a spin.
expect to have the center out id say.
jack one wheel up and give it a spin.
expect to have the center out id say.
#5
_draglc_
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Posted 14 November 2006 - 07:40 PM
theres nothing wrong with the centre...
it was perfectly fine when i put it in there a few months ago, and was fine when the 6 was in there, and i havent given it anything since putting the 8 in.
so rule that out.
maybe something to do with the torque of the 8? not sure..
A1
it was perfectly fine when i put it in there a few months ago, and was fine when the 6 was in there, and i havent given it anything since putting the 8 in.
so rule that out.
maybe something to do with the torque of the 8? not sure..
A1
#6
_devilsadvocate_
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Posted 14 November 2006 - 08:36 PM
Sounds like uneven power developed by the motor at low rpm(lumpy cam?) and low throttle openings. I gather this happens when just moving from standstill at a moderate rate. Perhaps a two stage arm on the throttle linkage to get a greater range of accelerator pedal travel at low throttle openings.
#7
gtrboyy
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Posted 15 November 2006 - 12:00 AM
Trailing arms or bushes?
When I first got my lc I found the std bushes crushed/split in the top arms so that when the diff moved it started to elongate the bolt hole in the top trailing arm which made it looked like the o/s rear wheel moved.
This is something that would have happened over time but the only time I ever had shuddering problems was when the banjo was about to bang,it would usaually start to shudder in reverse,then start to do it in 1st gear after awhile.When I converted to an eight banjos didn't last long at all.
When I first got my lc I found the std bushes crushed/split in the top arms so that when the diff moved it started to elongate the bolt hole in the top trailing arm which made it looked like the o/s rear wheel moved.
This is something that would have happened over time but the only time I ever had shuddering problems was when the banjo was about to bang,it would usaually start to shudder in reverse,then start to do it in 1st gear after awhile.When I converted to an eight banjos didn't last long at all.
#8
racean69
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Posted 15 November 2006 - 07:18 AM
I had a similar prob few years back
Ended up being the centre.
Word of warning after my centre done this for a short time It suddenly locked up totally while I was turning at an intersection luckily at low speed.
Not saying this is about to happen but be aware.
Ended up being the centre.
Word of warning after my centre done this for a short time It suddenly locked up totally while I was turning at an intersection luckily at low speed.
Not saying this is about to happen but be aware.
#9
FastEHHolden
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Posted 15 November 2006 - 07:45 AM
bushes or shocks..similar to the other thread about losing traction in the wet.
The extra torque will exacerbate the problem.
The extra torque will exacerbate the problem.
#10
_munro_
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Posted 15 November 2006 - 05:59 PM
sounds like you've got a leaking rear main seal.
when the clutch plate gets contaminated it shutters.
this shuttering travels through the g'box to the diff and gives the driver the sensation that it's coming from the rear end.
to check this take off the dust cover and have a look.
tom
when the clutch plate gets contaminated it shutters.
this shuttering travels through the g'box to the diff and gives the driver the sensation that it's coming from the rear end.
to check this take off the dust cover and have a look.
tom
#11
_Yella SLuR_
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Posted 15 November 2006 - 08:19 PM
What's the operating range of the cam in the engine? I get shudders in my car when doing 60km in fourth, as the engine is operating under 2,000 RPM, under the operating range of the cam. Can also do the same thing in first gear if I don't give it enough herbs off the line.
#12
_draglc_
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Posted 16 November 2006 - 12:46 PM
munro, the engine doesnt leak, and i watched the wheel hop when the tyre guy drove it.
not sure about the cam, dunno what it is! if i give it plenty of revs though it seems to be ok, but its not a huge cam!
A1
not sure about the cam, dunno what it is! if i give it plenty of revs though it seems to be ok, but its not a huge cam!
A1
#13
_Yella SLuR_
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Posted 16 November 2006 - 01:11 PM
A 2,000-5,500 RPM cam isn't a huge cam, a 3,500 - ~ is a big cam.
If you saw the tire wobbling when the tyre guy drove it, get the wheel rebalanced first, then work in from there. I sometimes find the guys balance them with rubber valves cause they forget to put the chrome ones back in. When they realise, they usually just put the chrome ones back in without rebalancing, which has gotta throw the balance out.
Short of that, possibly a bent axle, like I just recently fixed after four years of shudder!!! To test, pull the wheel and brake drum off, grab a dial indicator and measure the run-out on the axle centre. Mine was 0.700", or whatever is equivalent to half a milimetre.
Short of that, any big brake lock-ups recently on the rears? Possible flat spot, although tire dudes should have picked that up. Once you have a flat spot, they usually just grow. Need tires buffed.
If you saw the tire wobbling when the tyre guy drove it, get the wheel rebalanced first, then work in from there. I sometimes find the guys balance them with rubber valves cause they forget to put the chrome ones back in. When they realise, they usually just put the chrome ones back in without rebalancing, which has gotta throw the balance out.
Short of that, possibly a bent axle, like I just recently fixed after four years of shudder!!! To test, pull the wheel and brake drum off, grab a dial indicator and measure the run-out on the axle centre. Mine was 0.700", or whatever is equivalent to half a milimetre.
Short of that, any big brake lock-ups recently on the rears? Possible flat spot, although tire dudes should have picked that up. Once you have a flat spot, they usually just grow. Need tires buffed.
#14
_CHOPPER_
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Posted 16 November 2006 - 04:43 PM
Pat, have you ever compared the weight of a plastic valve cap to a metal valve cap? However, I will state that when adding some metal valve caps to rims balanced without ANY valve caps, it has changed the balance by up to 15 grams. On the back, it wouldn't be noticed.
#15
_DocDamage_
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Posted 16 November 2006 - 07:56 PM
Could it be the back brakes? Loose retaining pin letting them twist & bind up enough to grab at low speed.
#16
_munro_
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Posted 16 November 2006 - 09:12 PM
when a clutch shudders the wheel will hopmunro, the engine doesnt leak, and i watched the wheel hop when the tyre guy drove it.
not sure about the cam, dunno what it is! if i give it plenty of revs though it seems to be ok, but its not a huge cam!
A1
i'm having the same problem with my nissan patrol.
a rear main leak was 1 suggestion why a clutch will shudder.
here are some more.
fractured flywheel falty clutch or pressure plate
faces of clutch, or pressure plates or flywheel contaminated loose flywheel bolts
leaking g'box. or eccessive lubrication or input spline throwout bearing or spigot bush.
it's only happened since you replaced the g'box?
if you don't think it's that check out the diff centre bearings and axles first
#18
_draglc_
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Posted 17 November 2006 - 01:38 PM
lol you got me wrong... the back wheels hops, like it has a locked diff in it.. if you havent seen a locked diff turning a corner then you dont know what im talking about...
yet to check it out.
A1
yet to check it out.
A1
#19
_tuffgong_
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Posted 18 November 2006 - 07:53 AM
DRAGLC to be done with the problem come to my place with 500 bills and a bit of time and we will change diffs, i have a 9in with 308 centre and it runs torana wheels, but you also have to give me your set up.
#20
_@milco@_
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Posted 09 January 2007 - 09:07 PM
shit! if only you lived in vic.......................DRAGLC to be done with the problem come to my place with 500 bills and a bit of time and we will change diffs, i have a 9in with 308 centre and it runs torana wheels, but you also have to give me your set up.
#21
_draglc_
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Posted 10 January 2007 - 02:23 PM
dont worry milco, ill be round there very shortly!
A1
A1
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