Tobes, there's good advice being thrown at you mate.
It really is up to you what you do with it.
But take everything said here into consideration.
Have a look at how your average, run of the mill, modified fully sick VN Calais sits (slammed on its arse) and then notice how the thing (doesn't) handle riding in a straight line down the road.
Mate, I shake my head, and take notice of that car, 'cos next time it's coming toward me, I've got my eyes on stalks waiting for it to swap lanes in an instant.
If you're gunna post a question asking for advice, take that advice on board.
I don't know why you're pushing the point, but if you get it all done, post some pics up.
I'd like to be able to spot you coming the other way.....just in case I need to swap lanes to avoid you.
My 2c... although I guess you'll just pass this off too.
No agro, just don't wanna see you wrapped around a pole, cos that aint fully sick, 'eh?
Cut Springs
Started by
_TOBES_
, Dec 02 2006 10:44 PM
49 replies to this topic
#26
knoath
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Posted 05 December 2006 - 08:41 PM
#27
ls2lxhatch
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Posted 05 December 2006 - 08:44 PM
If the engineers sign off on the mod and it is accepted by the pits then you are covered from a legal point of view and the engineers arse is on the line.
As to what effect it has on the springs I have no idea, I hope your engineer does. I would be interested to see what documentation the engineer provides to prove the modification is safe.
Why do you need to make your own spring?
As to what effect it has on the springs I have no idea, I hope your engineer does. I would be interested to see what documentation the engineer provides to prove the modification is safe.
Why do you need to make your own spring?
#28
_Oldn64_
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Posted 05 December 2006 - 09:31 PM
All I am going to add to this post is this. Don't make your car the legal limit. (ie 100mm) there are a couple of reasons for this.
1. If you load it up it will be unroadworthy as the car will be lower than the 100mm
2. even at 100mm you will hit things, like gutters, driveways, speedhumps. make it 120mm, that way you will clear stuff...
Cheers
1. If you load it up it will be unroadworthy as the car will be lower than the 100mm
2. even at 100mm you will hit things, like gutters, driveways, speedhumps. make it 120mm, that way you will clear stuff...
Cheers
#29
_TOBES_
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Posted 05 December 2006 - 10:18 PM
A progressive spring gets it characteristics from the variation in the distance between the coils.
As the spring compresses it narrows the gaps at the same rate resulting in the closer coils meeting or binding up first.
Once the coils bind up they no longer have any spring action, effectivly shortening the spring.
This shorter spring has a higher spring rate.
In the example above the spring has an initial spring rate of 120lb/".
As it is compressed it maintains this rate untill the first 2 coils bind, reducing the spring to 6 active coils.
At this point the spring rate jumps 12lb/' for the first coil and 24lb/' for the second, giving a spring rate of 156lb/".
Continue compressing the spring and the next coil, with the tapered gap, progressively binds up shortening the spring to 5 active coils.
The spring rate increases in the same linear fashion from 156lb/" to the top rate of 200lb/".
If I cut 1 of the closely spaced coils from this spring I have shortened it to 7 active coils giving me an initial spring rate of 132lb/".
As it is compressed it maintains this rate untill the first coil binds, reducing the spring to 6 active coils.
At this point the spring rate jumps 24lb/" giving me a spring rate of 156lb/".
Continue compressing the spring and the next coil, with the tapered gap, progressively binds up shortening the spring to 5 active coils.
The spring rate increases in the same linear fashion from 156lb/" to the top rate of 200lb/".
As you can see, once the closely spaced coils bind up, the spring shortens itself past the point that I have by cutting 1 coil off.
From that point on the spring performs in exactly the same fashon with exactly the same action as designed by the manufacturer.
The only effect I have had on the spring is to increase the initial spring rate from 120lb/" to 132lb/" and have succeded in shortening the spring by approx 15mm.
This is a fine tuning exercise to bring my car to the optimum ride height, recomended by Whiteline, to produce the optimum handling characteristics.
As the spring compresses it narrows the gaps at the same rate resulting in the closer coils meeting or binding up first.
Once the coils bind up they no longer have any spring action, effectivly shortening the spring.
This shorter spring has a higher spring rate.
In the example above the spring has an initial spring rate of 120lb/".
As it is compressed it maintains this rate untill the first 2 coils bind, reducing the spring to 6 active coils.
At this point the spring rate jumps 12lb/' for the first coil and 24lb/' for the second, giving a spring rate of 156lb/".
Continue compressing the spring and the next coil, with the tapered gap, progressively binds up shortening the spring to 5 active coils.
The spring rate increases in the same linear fashion from 156lb/" to the top rate of 200lb/".
If I cut 1 of the closely spaced coils from this spring I have shortened it to 7 active coils giving me an initial spring rate of 132lb/".
As it is compressed it maintains this rate untill the first coil binds, reducing the spring to 6 active coils.
At this point the spring rate jumps 24lb/" giving me a spring rate of 156lb/".
Continue compressing the spring and the next coil, with the tapered gap, progressively binds up shortening the spring to 5 active coils.
The spring rate increases in the same linear fashion from 156lb/" to the top rate of 200lb/".
As you can see, once the closely spaced coils bind up, the spring shortens itself past the point that I have by cutting 1 coil off.
From that point on the spring performs in exactly the same fashon with exactly the same action as designed by the manufacturer.
The only effect I have had on the spring is to increase the initial spring rate from 120lb/" to 132lb/" and have succeded in shortening the spring by approx 15mm.
This is a fine tuning exercise to bring my car to the optimum ride height, recomended by Whiteline, to produce the optimum handling characteristics.
#30
_bodallafella_
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Posted 05 December 2006 - 10:38 PM
A lot is being made of how illegal cut springs are but I can't find any reference to this actually being the case in NSW. The vehicle standards info on modified vehicles has a list of prohibited suspension modifications and there is no mention of cut springs.
What is illegal and sometimes dangerous are the tyre wheel combinations a lot of people run, especially on flared Toranas. All the dangers that Andy has mentioned can apply here too but no one gets on their high horse about that because you need big wheels to look cool.
I think Tobes is just trying to make a point as it would obviously cost more to get the engineers certificate than it would to buy new springs but there are worse things out there than cut springs.
I personally wouldn't bother cutting springs these days as cheap springs are readily available but this wasn't always the case. If everyone took this kind of knee jerk approach to modifying cars there would be no such thing as an automotive aftermarket and we would all be driving stock pus boxes with good fuel economy.
What is illegal and sometimes dangerous are the tyre wheel combinations a lot of people run, especially on flared Toranas. All the dangers that Andy has mentioned can apply here too but no one gets on their high horse about that because you need big wheels to look cool.
I think Tobes is just trying to make a point as it would obviously cost more to get the engineers certificate than it would to buy new springs but there are worse things out there than cut springs.
I personally wouldn't bother cutting springs these days as cheap springs are readily available but this wasn't always the case. If everyone took this kind of knee jerk approach to modifying cars there would be no such thing as an automotive aftermarket and we would all be driving stock pus boxes with good fuel economy.
Edited by bodallafella, 05 December 2006 - 10:39 PM.
#31
_SSHatch_
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Posted 05 December 2006 - 10:38 PM
Its interesting you say that Whiteline recommended you cut your springs.
I just spent a sum total of 2 mins on their website and came up with this link...
Whiteline says your are wrong again...
I dont see how they would tell you to cut springs when they have information on their website slearly stating that its illegal.
Fot those of you who cant be bothered clicking on the proveided direct link I shall quote the relevant section taken from the lower portion of the first column...
So once again, I got nothing.
Wanna post up something else I can pick holes in???
Cant see why a reputable company like Whiteline would be telling you to perform illegal modifications to your vehicle. Sounds like Business Suicide to me.
But hey what would I know, I am just another dumb forum user who obviously knows nothing.
Edit:
Just found some more info in their FAQ section
I just spent a sum total of 2 mins on their website and came up with this link...
Whiteline says your are wrong again...
I dont see how they would tell you to cut springs when they have information on their website slearly stating that its illegal.
Fot those of you who cant be bothered clicking on the proveided direct link I shall quote the relevant section taken from the lower portion of the first column...
So how low can you go?...
For example, a slammed vehicle using cut (illegal), or reset (possibly illegal) coils typically has no suspension travel left. thats why its bouncing on the bumpstops with all the uncontrolled energy transferring straight to the shocks, bushes, suspension members, chassis and finally your body.
So once again, I got nothing.
Wanna post up something else I can pick holes in???
Cant see why a reputable company like Whiteline would be telling you to perform illegal modifications to your vehicle. Sounds like Business Suicide to me.
But hey what would I know, I am just another dumb forum user who obviously knows nothing.
Edit:
Just found some more info in their FAQ section
What more can I say???Why don't I just cut my existing springs?
1. Many aftermarket lowered springs are designed to be just captive (held in place) with the wheel at full droop. This is a legal requirement throughout Australia. Cutting off a portion of the coil will reduce the free height (length of the spring out of the car), possibly to the point making the spring loose at droop. This can also happen with OEM springs but is more often a problem with aftermarket product.
2.Most springs are designed to a fairly tight tolerance of material volume to load carrying capacity. That is, the amount of steel used in the spring is hopefully just enough to hold up the car over the life of the vehicle with normal use. Chop off some coils and you've dramatically reduced the amount of material, which almost always will lead to an overstressed coil that will sag prematurely.
3.A reduction in ride height is normally coupled with a proportionate increase in rate to offset the reduced bump travel. We need to slow down the compression of the spring enough to make sure we don't punch through to the shock at high velocity. A properly designed lowered spring will have a rate increase sufficient to offset this bump travel reduction.
4.The cutting method can also be a problem. Generating heat is not so much a problem as reduction in the heat afterwards. That is, heating the material beyond its temper and then rapidly cooling it will affect the composition of the material. A hack saw would be preferable but, irrespective of what tools you use, its not good practice overall.
Edited by SSHatch, 05 December 2006 - 10:47 PM.
#32
_Oldn64_
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Posted 05 December 2006 - 10:47 PM
Now now peoples please be courteous and not start an all in brawl. I do not really want to close a thread...
Cheers
Cheers
#33
_TOBES_
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Posted 05 December 2006 - 11:16 PM
Sorry about the ambiguity.
What I meant to say was that, as I am using a number of Whiteline parts on the car and will initially be setting it up to their recomended specs, I am trying to get as close as possible to their recomended optimum ride height.
One too many comma's certainly make a difference.
This is not a cheap exercise, I've spent close to $2.500 on this suspension setup, and I want to make the most of it.
Also I'm a fussy prick and a perfectionist.
Why do I want to make my own springs??
Because I can?
For the challenge?
Because I have a theory and want to prove it?
For the satisfaction?
Sheer bloody mindedness???
Removing that 1 coil has a minimal effect on the spring and, I feel, has some advantages.
The initial spring rate is higher so must produce a sharper handling vehicle.
Less body roll, sharper turn in, more feel. The softer portion of the progressive spring is there for comfort.
I'm looking for a nice compromise between the two...
When the initial 2 coils bind up on the standard spring there is a sharp increase in the spring rate of 36lb/". This sudden increase is reduced by 1/3.
What I meant to say was that, as I am using a number of Whiteline parts on the car and will initially be setting it up to their recomended specs, I am trying to get as close as possible to their recomended optimum ride height.
One too many comma's certainly make a difference.
This is not a cheap exercise, I've spent close to $2.500 on this suspension setup, and I want to make the most of it.
Also I'm a fussy prick and a perfectionist.
Why do I want to make my own springs??
Because I can?
For the challenge?
Because I have a theory and want to prove it?
For the satisfaction?
Sheer bloody mindedness???
Removing that 1 coil has a minimal effect on the spring and, I feel, has some advantages.
The initial spring rate is higher so must produce a sharper handling vehicle.
Less body roll, sharper turn in, more feel. The softer portion of the progressive spring is there for comfort.
I'm looking for a nice compromise between the two...
When the initial 2 coils bind up on the standard spring there is a sharp increase in the spring rate of 36lb/". This sudden increase is reduced by 1/3.
#34
ls2lxhatch
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Posted 06 December 2006 - 12:41 AM
The NCOP does not specifically say you can not cut springs.
http://www.dotars.go...ng_3Feb2006.pdf
The requirements are. (Page 21 onwards)
1. Coils springs as still under compression at full travel.
2. Suspension travel is the same as original or more. Two thirds travel is ok
3. Coils springs must have clearance between coils at full bump.
4. The replacement or lowered springs must have the same end shape as the original.
If the shocks are shortened 15mm to cater for the reduced height of the springs then it should meet requirements 1, 2 and 3. I am not familiar with the Whiteline springs but I do not see how you will be able to cut a coil and still meet requirement 4 as the standard rear springs have a flat top and bottom.
If you can meet the requirements, get an engineers certificate and permit then yes you can cut springs with a hacksaw. To cut springs without the engineering and permit would still be a NO.
The only argument left is that cutting the spring has an effect on the spring rate but this is negated by the fact that is what you are trying to achieve.
http://www.dotars.go...ng_3Feb2006.pdf
The requirements are. (Page 21 onwards)
1. Coils springs as still under compression at full travel.
2. Suspension travel is the same as original or more. Two thirds travel is ok
3. Coils springs must have clearance between coils at full bump.
4. The replacement or lowered springs must have the same end shape as the original.
If the shocks are shortened 15mm to cater for the reduced height of the springs then it should meet requirements 1, 2 and 3. I am not familiar with the Whiteline springs but I do not see how you will be able to cut a coil and still meet requirement 4 as the standard rear springs have a flat top and bottom.
If you can meet the requirements, get an engineers certificate and permit then yes you can cut springs with a hacksaw. To cut springs without the engineering and permit would still be a NO.
The only argument left is that cutting the spring has an effect on the spring rate but this is negated by the fact that is what you are trying to achieve.
#35
A9X
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Posted 06 December 2006 - 11:34 AM
Why do I want to make my own springs??
Because I can?
But your not making your own spring.
Your cutting somebody elses.
For 2.5 K you couldn't get new ones made to your specifications??
Welby
#36
_Herne_
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Posted 06 December 2006 - 11:39 AM
Easiest way out of this is to phone the relevant state RTA tech advice and ask them if they will accept springs you have cut to lower your car. I know the answer, do you?
I cant believe this thread has gone this long.
Herne
I cant believe this thread has gone this long.
Herne
#37
Tiny
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Posted 06 December 2006 - 12:02 PM
Gentlemen.
Ive kept a reasonably close eye on this thread cause its pretty darn interesting!
I might just add my 2c in.
Tobes: I can understand what your trying to do, But i believe your going about it the wrong way.
We went to Bilstein Racing shop in Sydenham Sydney. My brother required a fairly specific spring height and wanted a sping with a certain tension and rate and teh guys there did all the calculations, weight calcs height laden and unladen and then ordered him the spring to suit.
He paid just over $1000 to purchase:
4 springs cusom made to suit, 4x bilstein shocks, and strut towers to suit larger rims on his crummydore.
Now, I dont see why you'd want to take any calculated risks by altering an existing spring when you could very easily specify the exact heights, rates and rquirements for a set of springs to be made for you. I expect that the cost for the springs along wouldnt exceed the $350 mark by much if at all.
As youve said your a perfectionist and you want to do it yourself which is admirable. But without the correct spring forming machinery I think that your fighting a loosing battle. Appart from the legalities of altering a manufactured part, I think you would acheive a better result from having the job done right and to your exact design/specification.
Cheers.
Ive kept a reasonably close eye on this thread cause its pretty darn interesting!
I might just add my 2c in.
Tobes: I can understand what your trying to do, But i believe your going about it the wrong way.
We went to Bilstein Racing shop in Sydenham Sydney. My brother required a fairly specific spring height and wanted a sping with a certain tension and rate and teh guys there did all the calculations, weight calcs height laden and unladen and then ordered him the spring to suit.
He paid just over $1000 to purchase:
4 springs cusom made to suit, 4x bilstein shocks, and strut towers to suit larger rims on his crummydore.
Now, I dont see why you'd want to take any calculated risks by altering an existing spring when you could very easily specify the exact heights, rates and rquirements for a set of springs to be made for you. I expect that the cost for the springs along wouldnt exceed the $350 mark by much if at all.
As youve said your a perfectionist and you want to do it yourself which is admirable. But without the correct spring forming machinery I think that your fighting a loosing battle. Appart from the legalities of altering a manufactured part, I think you would acheive a better result from having the job done right and to your exact design/specification.
Cheers.
#38
Struggler
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Posted 06 December 2006 - 01:45 PM
ACT Vehicle Inspection Manual, Section B, para 4.3 states......
Reasons for rejection - any fracture in a spring coil or any modifications to a spring, such as cutting or heating and compressing.
Reasons for rejection - any fracture in a spring coil or any modifications to a spring, such as cutting or heating and compressing.
#39
tinkers
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Posted 06 December 2006 - 03:48 PM
This looks like it needed quoting again.The other viewpoint is to fully inform them of all the facts and educate them in the reality of modifications they will likely do anyway.
*Snip*
Made him read this thread and a couple of others on here and he realised that it was not only an old fart preaching...
Tobes hope you dont mind but it might steal this for other threads on here when it feels like talking to brick walls/youngins.
#40
_gtr161s_
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Posted 06 December 2006 - 06:28 PM
It seems weird to me that anyone would even consider cutting down a metal that has been specifically tempered to maintain a certain composition.
I had a set of springs from lovells which didnt quite suit my hieght so i worked out my optimun ride height and took them back in to have reset.
Result was a perfect height and maintain a nice ride - $120.00
I had a set of springs from lovells which didnt quite suit my hieght so i worked out my optimun ride height and took them back in to have reset.
Result was a perfect height and maintain a nice ride - $120.00
#41
_tassietorrie_
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Posted 06 December 2006 - 07:32 PM
my mazda rx7 that i had,lowerered the suspunsoin properly(shorter shocks,lovells springs etc),front still sat a bit too high for my liking.took ONE coil out.was coming down a hill,hit boost in 3rd gear,small bump at the bottom of the hill.hit the bump,front wheels lifted off the deck,front bottomed out on landing,and broke the ball joint.result was the car hitting a bank at 180 klms ph(speedo stuck on that reading on impact)and the roolcage definitly did what it was supposed to(which,ironicaly i had been defected for the week before,nothing said bout the cut springs though)and my pride and joy which owed me over 30 grand,was a pile of twisted metal.i realise that speed was a factor,but if the front end hadnt have bottomed out due to my chopped lovells springs,I belive the ball joint may not have broke.I will never chop a spring again.Other people can do what they like,but personally,ild like to see my kids grow up,not be another statistic due to being a dickhead and trying to save a coupla hundred bucks.What is your life worth?????.my 2 cents worth(or should i say 30 grands worth).
#42
_postal_dood_
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Posted 01 January 2007 - 12:43 PM
Jesus guys, took the time to read this topic and i have to say its pretty informative. Personally i wouldnt cut my springs and dont see why anyone would if there as cheap as was stated, but thats up to the car owner.
Also i never new there was so many technical discriptions for what i considered a pretty basic sort of car part.
<Suspension = Stability, comfort and safety> simple enough for me i sure wont be changing mine any time soon.
Its always going to be up to the car owner/driver, legally or moraly if something happened (such as a crash) you'd be well and trully up shit creak, spend the extra dollars and save yourself the time/effort/hassle ect...
Mike
Also i never new there was so many technical discriptions for what i considered a pretty basic sort of car part.
<Suspension = Stability, comfort and safety> simple enough for me i sure wont be changing mine any time soon.
Its always going to be up to the car owner/driver, legally or moraly if something happened (such as a crash) you'd be well and trully up shit creak, spend the extra dollars and save yourself the time/effort/hassle ect...
Mike
#43
_v8slrtorana_
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Posted 13 January 2007 - 07:10 PM
Cut springs will alter vechiles load carry capacity. Another good reason not to do it. From this point of view, an engineer should not sign off the paperwork.
#44
_torana_
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Posted 13 January 2007 - 08:47 PM
just out of curiousity, how many of you guys have kings springs super lows in their cars?
check their website
Super Low Sports springs lower vehicle approximately 50-60mm below standard height.Kings Super Low Sports Replacement Coil Spring Range is designed primarily for cosmetic enhancement(show cars etc). These parts may therefore render your vehicle illegal for use on public roads.
I find that a lot more scary considering how many fully sick commodores or ricers have them ( usually with 4 mates as well and 100kg of subs and amps ) than the guy who cuts one loop of a standard height heavy duty spring
cheers julian
check their website
Super Low Sports springs lower vehicle approximately 50-60mm below standard height.Kings Super Low Sports Replacement Coil Spring Range is designed primarily for cosmetic enhancement(show cars etc). These parts may therefore render your vehicle illegal for use on public roads.
I find that a lot more scary considering how many fully sick commodores or ricers have them ( usually with 4 mates as well and 100kg of subs and amps ) than the guy who cuts one loop of a standard height heavy duty spring
cheers julian
Edited by torana, 13 January 2007 - 08:51 PM.
#45
_rorym_
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Posted 13 January 2007 - 09:40 PM
Didnt read it all...just the last page... I ring Dobinson Springs in Rockhampton with my specs..he winds..tempers and makes my springs to my specs...which are similiar to HDT with twist for $200 a set. They have been doing it for 80 years, pay any more and I thing you are being touched...this is for early Holden stuff like LC and LH I am talking about.
To take away all the stuff in your head that says you think you know what you are doing...because you don't...read this
http://www.smithees-...sworksheet.html
and the attached 30 pages that will give you a head spin and show you that suspension setting is an art...not a backyard..lets cut a spring to make it stiffer and handle better...type of thing..
Just my 2cs.
R
To take away all the stuff in your head that says you think you know what you are doing...because you don't...read this
http://www.smithees-...sworksheet.html
and the attached 30 pages that will give you a head spin and show you that suspension setting is an art...not a backyard..lets cut a spring to make it stiffer and handle better...type of thing..
Just my 2cs.
R
Edited by rorym, 13 January 2007 - 09:45 PM.
#46
_Bomber Watson_
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Posted 14 January 2007 - 02:10 PM
how did you find dobinsons rory??
i have been in a few times talking to them, found them ok once you get past the sales staff. the sales blokes are completley useless.
went into pedders and the sales person was a prick, i was just trying to get prices and ended up telling him to shove it (and was considering shoving a 5" raised landcruiser spring they had on display somewhere the sun dosent shine). he really pissed me off.
all the other spring places around here seem fairly useless. omaras just deals through whiteline, but i did get my koni reds through them.
was thinking about getting dobinsons to make custom coils for the four corners of my lj. also a sway bar. would you reccomend?
back on topic, man this thread is good. personaly i wouldent cut a spring unless it was in a off road only car (burnout etc)
i have been in a few times talking to them, found them ok once you get past the sales staff. the sales blokes are completley useless.
went into pedders and the sales person was a prick, i was just trying to get prices and ended up telling him to shove it (and was considering shoving a 5" raised landcruiser spring they had on display somewhere the sun dosent shine). he really pissed me off.
all the other spring places around here seem fairly useless. omaras just deals through whiteline, but i did get my koni reds through them.
was thinking about getting dobinsons to make custom coils for the four corners of my lj. also a sway bar. would you reccomend?
back on topic, man this thread is good. personaly i wouldent cut a spring unless it was in a off road only car (burnout etc)
Edited by Bomber Watson, 14 January 2007 - 02:10 PM.
#47
_rorym_
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Posted 14 January 2007 - 02:53 PM
Highly recommend Dobinsons..ring and ask for the tehnical section..I will have to look in my diary at work but think it was Rob..couldn't do enough for me when I explained what I wanted...think it helps if you know exactly what you want to,,then you dont stuff them around. Pedders are crap..especially the shocks..made in China or Indonesia or somewhere....there was a very unhappy Pedders franchisee who had a website called www.fukron.com.il or something similiar that spilled the beans on the quality of some of the Pedders stuff. Was enough for me to go straight to Koni ..
R
R
#48
_TOBES_
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Posted 18 September 2007 - 02:20 PM
Did anyone watch the episode of 'Overhauling' late last week with the nice blue Boss 302...?
At the end of the show Chip decides that the front ride height is not to his liking and has his guys remove the front springs. The two guys in the background, one with a pair of pliers on the spring and the other with a grinder, procede to cut off a coil. The man himself then proudly displays the single coil and and the nice low front on the Muzzy...!!
On international TV too......!!!
At the end of the show Chip decides that the front ride height is not to his liking and has his guys remove the front springs. The two guys in the background, one with a pair of pliers on the spring and the other with a grinder, procede to cut off a coil. The man himself then proudly displays the single coil and and the nice low front on the Muzzy...!!
On international TV too......!!!
#49
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Posted 18 September 2007 - 02:25 PM
Yep - I saw that and couldn't believe it. I suspect that if they had more time they would have done it correctly. It must be legal in California or they probably wouldn't have shown it done that way.Did anyone watch the episode of 'Overhauling' late last week with the nice blue Boss 302...?
At the end of the show Chip decides that the front ride height is not to his liking and has his guys remove the front springs. The two guys in the background, one with a pair of pliers on the spring and the other with a grinder, procede to cut off a coil. The man himself then proudly displays the single coil and and the nice low front on the Muzzy...!!
On international TV too......!!!
Bazza
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Posted 18 September 2007 - 02:37 PM
I saw that episode too and was as amazed as you guys. Very poor effort indeed.
However when you listen to their cars and motorcycles - exhausts (American Chopper) you begin to realise that almost anything goes in the USA. eg sharp pointy things designed to kill should the rider be unfortunate enough to meet with an accident.
As an aside another thing that amazes me is the amount of bog they use on their show cars one sees very little file finishing. As for correct shut gaps, bog seems to fix that too but for how long......
I know some here seem to think cut springs are ok and I guess they are until you get a ticket or one causes a fatality.
Cheers
Herne
However when you listen to their cars and motorcycles - exhausts (American Chopper) you begin to realise that almost anything goes in the USA. eg sharp pointy things designed to kill should the rider be unfortunate enough to meet with an accident.
As an aside another thing that amazes me is the amount of bog they use on their show cars one sees very little file finishing. As for correct shut gaps, bog seems to fix that too but for how long......
I know some here seem to think cut springs are ok and I guess they are until you get a ticket or one causes a fatality.
Cheers
Herne
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