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#1 shanegtr

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Posted 27 December 2006 - 07:12 AM

Ok, its not for my torrie, but it is an electrical problem :D
Has anyone had anything to do with H2 bulbs? See the link for a pic of them. http://db.hella.com....odver&flrecid=3I've been through about 6 globes since I've had my spotties. At first I thought I might gotten my finger prints on them because they are fiddly to install. But the last 3 definatly have not had any finger prints on them as I have gotten the intallation down to a tea now. Worst thing is Im lucky to get a run out of each bulb, average life seems to only be a matter of hours - if that :x . I'm half thinking that because they are a smallish bulb then they cant get rid of the heat quickly enough? I'm almost at the stage of pissing these spotlights of and getting something with normal bulbs :bad-words: Any ideas?

#2 _devilsadvocate_

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Posted 27 December 2006 - 07:40 AM

You can install them in the time taken for a cup of tea? :nada: It is more the design of the lamps than the globes that could be causing your problems. Heat needs to be conducted away from the base of the globe into the fitting. Are you using the recommended power ratings for the lamps? What wattage globes are you using? You have tried different brands of globes? Are the lamp bodies from a reputable manufacturer?

Edited by devilsadvocate, 27 December 2006 - 07:43 AM.


#3 _devilsadvocate_

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Posted 27 December 2006 - 09:34 AM

Another factor could be the quality of the connections that you make with the wiring to the terminals of the globes. If they are dirty or suspect heat develop here and cause problems, also the thicker the connecting wire, the more heat it will conduct away from the terminals.

#4 shanegtr

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Posted 27 December 2006 - 10:14 AM

The lights are cibie turini's. Using 100w bulbs. The original bulbs didnt last long. I've run a few different brands of bulbs through them and it dosent seem to make any difference

#5 _devilsadvocate_

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Posted 27 December 2006 - 11:52 AM

Stuck for answers here, you have checked for poor heat generating connections, perhaps see if there is any signicant voltage drop from the supply wire to the globe terminal when operating. What actual voltage do you have at the lamps with the engine running?
Other than that, dont know, Cibie has a good reputation as a quality item and 100W globes appear to be the standard item. Contact the Cibie distributor themselves and see if they have any answers? Have you tried using the 70W or 55W globes, I know its not the answer to something thats supposed to work with 100W, but may be a cheaper option to try and still get a reasonable light output from.

Edited by devilsadvocate, 27 December 2006 - 11:58 AM.


#6 _Oldn64_

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Posted 27 December 2006 - 07:36 PM

Do you run teh clear covers on them or just teh glass front? Is teh lense sealed properly? All in all I would be checking the connections.

Cheers

#7 shanegtr

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Posted 27 December 2006 - 08:11 PM

No covers are used on the lights. Im getting 13.78 volts at the lights with the engine running. All the crimp connections are brand new (thank you work :D ) and the whole lot was only installed about 3 months ago - when the lights went on. Had problems since the start.

#8 _devilsadvocate_

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Posted 28 December 2006 - 05:40 AM

Well that seems fine ^, can only suggest as before that you take up the problem with the Cibie distributor or even put it back on the retailer, tell them the lamps arent useable and you want you money back. They have some responsibility too.

#9 _Oldn64_

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Posted 28 December 2006 - 10:47 AM

Before jumping at that I would also be asking teh question what the globe life of these should be. This will give you an indication of what they expect as normal, before you state they last about an hour.

Cheers

#10 shanegtr

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Posted 28 December 2006 - 07:58 PM

Before jumping at that I would also be asking teh question what the globe life of these should be. This will give you an indication of what they expect as normal, before you state they last about an hour.

Cheers

The majority of them have only lasted about an hour of run time. My nearest town which is Roebourne is half an hour drive and I've had 3 new ones blow on the way home from there. The longest running globe has just blown yesterday morning and that would have done around 30hrs (lasted 1 trip to Perth - do around 8 hours night driving each way) and a while running around town here. Im serioursly not underestimating the run time. Although the first 2 could be put down to misinstallation :<_<:

#11 TerrA LX

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Posted 28 December 2006 - 08:32 PM

mmmm maybe when you install them you touch them, leaving an oily residule on the globe, these globes will overheat quickly with it on them, try glad wrap and wether you touch them give the globe a good clean with metho or the like.

Edited by ALX76, 28 December 2006 - 08:33 PM.


#12 _devilsadvocate_

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Posted 28 December 2006 - 09:55 PM

Are the lamps mounted solidly, or do the beams vibrate/bounce up and down a lot at speed or on rough roads? Dont know if that would cause globe longevity problems or not, just throwing it in there.

Edited by devilsadvocate, 28 December 2006 - 09:55 PM.


#13 Dangerous

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Posted 02 January 2007 - 11:42 AM

Three things kill globes - heat, which DA has covered pretty well, excess voltage, and vibration.

AS DA said, the globe relies on really good electrical and mechanical connection to dissipate heat - are these globes clamped very tightly when installed? If not, they will not only heat up, but will vibrate as well which will quickly kill them. That's why they have such a large metal contact area - both heat dissipation and mechanical clamping.

Excess voltage - sounds like about the right voltage, but are there any spikes on the voltage suppley? - See Tinker's wiring thread about alternators/wiring.

Vibration - have you installed support brackets on the top of the spotlights, back to the vehicle? This goes a long way in stopping the whole spotlight mechanism from vibrating and rattling around, especially on dirt or rough roads. For a short term trial, you can use just a large hose clamp as a spotlight support bracket. Undo it completely, straighten it out, fix one end to the top of the spotlight and the other to the radiator support/grille/whatever, and then use the screw on the clamp to adjust for spotlight aiming.

With the oil from fingerprints issue, this will usually cause the glass capsule to fracture, due to localised overheating and/ differential expansion. Are the globe filaments failing, or is the glass fracturing?

Also, I'd be keeping all of the failed globes, as the globe supplier and Spotlight supplier will undoubtedly be blaming each other.

Another thing to try would be to temporarily wire one light up directly to the battery (no switches, relays, minimum connectors), and leave the other hooked up as normal. See if one lasts longer than the other.

#14 shanegtr

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Posted 04 January 2007 - 09:18 PM

Im starting to think that the cause is vibration, although when the beams are ilumminated you cant see any movement in the light, I think it requires looking at a little more closley. I get the stuffed bulbs out of the lights when I can and post up a pic of what they look like for ya's.

#15 _Yella SLuR_

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Posted 04 January 2007 - 09:48 PM

Shhh, or everybody will want some. Most guys get wood driving em, but having one that blows as well?????

More seriously, after having just pulled my lights out, check to see if the mounting dish is installed correctly. To my horror mine wasn't. For some dumb reason they put three adjusting screws in, and the spring was in the wrong hole. Only way to get the headlight to stay in was to twist and jam it. The spring and two mounting bolts should create a rough 60/60/60 (isoceles) triangle across the light. Also make sure the spring is located through the chrome securing ring into the hole in top of the dishes. Dude that did mine obviously thought Holden did something wrong, and put new holes in the side of the pressed metal dish!!!!

Post some pics if you pull it out, and I can see if it is done right. Oh, hold on, is it an LJ?

EDIT: Forget all that, you are talking spotties. Are you running them through a relay?

Edited by Yella SLuR, 04 January 2007 - 09:50 PM.


#16 shanegtr

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Posted 04 January 2007 - 10:25 PM

EDIT: Forget all that, you are talking spotties. Are you running them through a relay?

Yep

#17 Dangerous

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Posted 05 January 2007 - 09:03 AM

Relays normally hold in quite strongly when energised, but if you have a high resistance switch or joint, or an old relay, sometimes they can have intermittent contact with vibration. Try tapping on the relay when the spotlights are on, and see if they 'blink'. That will kill the filaments as well.

#18 shanegtr

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Posted 09 January 2007 - 08:45 AM

Found the problem. Turns out the bulb holder was not clamping tight enough on the bulb, which was causing either poor or no electrical contact with the bulb. A few carefuly placed bends in the holder and all is good

#19 _devilsadvocate_

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Posted 09 January 2007 - 09:08 AM

Good to hear you have it sorted, you've now run for a while without popping a globe! It is also good that you've posted back here what the prob was so we can all gain something from your experience.............not just the globe manufacturers!

Hopefully youll never have to install another globe in them again.......which makes me reflective on our 3UC's, the ones without headlight relays have never popped a globe since we've owned them, they lose about 1.2V through the wiring and switch, whereas the one with the relays has minimal voltage drop and lamp life would be about three years. This does reduce their brightness by 30% according to this guy, (brightness isnt directly proportional to power....apparently), but for a low maintenance car where things must work would recommend not upgrading to relays.

#20 Dangerous

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Posted 09 January 2007 - 09:22 AM

Good stuff on the fix, Shane.

DA, about the globe life - Increased brightness by having a higher voltage at the globe will definitely shorten their life quite a bit, but it's a trade off - the closer the globe gets to its rated wattage consumption, the whiter the light it produces is. Personally, I'd rather have brighter whiter lights (sounds like a washing powder commercial :huh: ) and keep a spare or two in the glovebox.

On globes in general, I'm firmly of the opinion that they don't make 'em like they used to! Old car globes, whether they be instrument globes, tail light globes or headlight globes just seem to last a lot longer than brand new rubbish quality stuff. Same with the 3AG glass fuses. I always keep the old ones whenever I wreck a car, or see the opportunity to salvage them out of a wreck. New globes and fuses, no matter what the brand or cost, just seems to be a lower quality.

#21 shanegtr

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Posted 09 January 2007 - 07:45 PM

Personally, I'd rather have brighter whiter lights

Thats why now any light that I can I change over to HID. Its a bit of a shit that there is no H2 bulb for HID's or I would have swapped to them. I havent seen any of the moving HID bulbs in action yet, but for the HI/Lows I just stick with normal globe, but any dedicated hi beam HID or nothing :D

It is also good that you've posted back here what the prob was so we can all gain something from your experience.............not just the globe manufacturers!

No matter how simple the answer is or how stupid it makes me look for changin at least 3 bulbs that most likely werent stuffed :tease:

#22 Dangerous

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Posted 11 January 2007 - 10:06 AM

Shane, by HID, do you mean a real ligh intensity discharge unit, or just a high light output 12 volt globe? HID usually refers to a high voltage Xenon lighting system, where an electronic unit converts 12 volts DC into a high frequency high voltage, and then feeds that to a HID globe inside the headlight assembly. Damned expensive, but work well, if a little directional.

#23 shanegtr

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Posted 12 January 2007 - 09:41 AM

yep, I mean the true HID lights. The kits can be had for a couple hundred off ebay now.




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