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T56 int LH/X


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#1 hatchssv8

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Posted 13 March 2007 - 11:11 PM

For continuity

L31SLR wrote

Looks like your having fun hatchssv8! From the pictures it looks like you have not had to widen or cut the trans tunnel yet. Did you look at aftermarket bell housings and find that they were not suitable? If the shifter ends up at the cover plate you can see in the top picture that does not look like too major a modification. How/where did you source your T56 gearbox? Can you give me an approx price you paid for the box?
Cheers for your help.
L31SLR Charlie
Maybe we should look at starting a T56 into LH/LX thread! Maybe the mods can help us move what we have started here into a specific thread?


Charlie,

To answer your questions

Yes I am having fun
The tunnel definately does not need widening (except to make room for the RLO solenoid at the extension housing), not 100% sure if the trans will contact the tunnel top when it is finally in position.
I did not look at aftermarket bell housings as the mods to the original are minor I believe (I will confirm as I go along)
The shifter (gear lever) will end up in same position as M20/1, which means I will also refit the console in its original position

I will need to mod the trans xmember, trim the trans casing of some metal (non structural), use an aftermarket shifer, and shortened prop shaft

I did not buy the T56, I did a trade with a Getrag would you believe.

If you need to buy a T56 I may be able to source one for you. Sounds like you want to join in the fun.

Cheers, Max

Edited by hatchssv8, 13 March 2007 - 11:13 PM.


#2 _L31SLR_

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Posted 14 March 2007 - 10:43 PM

Looks like we now have a T56 into LH/X Torana tread going! Awesome.
hatchssv8 maybe you should repost the pictures from the other thread so people can see what we are talking about.
I am definately thinking that the T56 is the way to go for my gearbox conversion. I am interested in some ball park pricing for a gearbox if you can get it for me. I am in the middle of my diff/disc brake/front sub frame upgrade at the moment so I won't be starting the gearbox exercise until later in the year.I am definately interested in some prices and ideas.
Cheers again and please keep us posted with heaps of pics
L31SLR Charlie

#3 _CHOPPER_

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Posted 15 March 2007 - 12:45 AM

Is the T56 the 6 speed box that costs around $8K?

#4 _L31SLR_

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Posted 15 March 2007 - 09:27 AM

The T56 is the 6 speed box same as in late model commodores. I'm not sure on a brand new purchase price but I have seen them for about $2500 fully rebuilt and from as low as $3000 with a Gen3 eng out of wrecked commodores.
I'm sure there are a few people on this forum who wheel and deal in this area that can give us some off the shelf prices.
L31SLR Charlie

#5 _AGGRO_

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Posted 15 March 2007 - 10:22 PM

From Mal Wood i was quoted 7k to supply a brand new t56 and fit it into my old VH that included pedal box and cross member, bellhousing shifter etc, so im guessin around that mark for a LH/X as well as he also quoted me around the same for a TKO600 and thats wat i put in to my LH (but i got the box 2nd hand)

#6 _L31SLR_

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Posted 21 March 2007 - 08:55 AM

I have seen two types of T56 advertised recently. A T56 to suit Commodore and a T56 to suit Ford. Apart from the obvious bellhousing bolt up differences can anyone tell me if the guts of the boxes is the same? I have seen the Ford boxes on ebay for $1500 brand new out of America.
Cheers
Charlie L31SLR

#7 antelopeslr5000

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Posted 21 March 2007 - 09:40 AM

Possibly the input shaft length but definitely spline count would differ between the two.

#8 _LH SL/R 5000_

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Posted 21 March 2007 - 12:30 PM

Are the bolt patterns different between the 304 and Gen III blocks?

#9 FastEHHolden

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Posted 21 March 2007 - 12:34 PM

I don't know but a way to find out would be to see iff there are 2 part numbers for V8 bellhousings in the VT range..as VT had 304 and gen 3.

#10 _TJ253_

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Posted 21 March 2007 - 02:14 PM

The vt 304 had the 5 speed and the 5.7 come with the 6 speed

#11 makka

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Posted 21 March 2007 - 02:18 PM

Are the bolt patterns different between the 304 and Gen III blocks?

I am pretty sure that they are both turbo pattern

#12 hatchssv8

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Posted 21 March 2007 - 04:32 PM

Bellhousings for both utilise 6 attaching bolts to the engine block. However, the gen3 pattern differs from the usual turbo pattern as used on the 5L block.

The lower four bolts (and the dowels) line up the same for both. thr top right bolt position is not used on the gen3 block. it moved to a position 'top centre'.

Basically when you put a T56 bellhousing from a VT/Y/Z gen3 on to a Holden 5L block, the centre bolt sits right next to the dizzy.

I am in the process of modifying such a bellhousing to suit my 5L. will post some pics tomorrow.

Max

#13 antelopeslr5000

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Posted 21 March 2007 - 06:34 PM

Hi Max,

I was told that the starter motor is also on the opposite side of the Gen III compared to the Holden 5 litre. Is that correct or have I been misinformed? :huh:

#14 hatchssv8

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Posted 22 March 2007 - 09:55 AM

As promised.
Posted Image

This pic shows the usual 6 bolt configuration of the 5L Turbo pattern block. the white paint shows the outline of the gen3 bell. note that is does not cater for the top rh bolt.


Posted Image

gen3 bell attached to 5L block


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top centre hole in bell which needs to be removed


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removed!!! (easiest part of the conversion/modification)

#15 _L31SLR_

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Posted 22 March 2007 - 10:25 AM

Great pics hatchssv8 thanks for that. I've got a couple more questions for you.
1. Does the T56 input shaft fit into the original 5L flywheel spigot bearing?
2. Are you going to use the original T56 clutch set up or have you got other plans?
3. Are you going cable or hydraulic clutch operation? If you are going hydraulic whos master/slave cyl set up are you using?
4. Where have you sourced you shifter assembly from?
Thanks again for your help
Charlie L31SLR

#16 hatchssv8

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Posted 22 March 2007 - 11:11 AM

removed section of bell and replacement on the left (top rh hole)
Posted Image

bell sections from donor. these will be trimmed and used where other sections of the bell needs to be modified.
Posted Image

shaded sections which need mods. 1. the triangular wedge for the top rh hole, 2. removal of metal to accommodate the starter and 3, removal of existing starter 'hump', (this will allow more room for the exhaust)

1.
Posted Image

2.
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3.
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this is not a mod I would attempt if the bell was made of steel.

Charlie,
1. Haven't checked, will do tonight. If not, it does seem very hard job to make it fit
2. No. I will use 5L flywheel and a suitable clutch assy for the T56. The Gen 3s are internally balanced, so cannot used gen3 fly on a 5L (correct me if I am wrong ppl)
3. Hydraulic as per VY/Z
4. Keeping this under wraps for the moment. All I can say is that I have a design and it works.

Thanks, Max

#17 _ant355_

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Posted 21 May 2007 - 09:47 PM

i would love to do the same as u are doing mate i have a vs t5 and its behind a 355 which im currently putting a vortech blower on and i want to do the same gearbox as this as they will handle good power..

im a sheetmetalworker by trade so i am keen as hell to do one myself for my car so itle be good to see the steps involved..
mine is cable clutch is there much to do for the hydraulic and how do u arrange the setup mate?
and the input shaft length how does that go with the diffrent engines too?

cheers ant

#18 hatchssv8

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Posted 24 May 2007 - 01:19 PM

OK some more updates.
Here are the pics of the converted bell housing (90% done). Only need to 'clean' the welds, smooth the inside area around the starter and give the housing a lick of paint.

Posted Image


Posted Image

Posted Image

Posted Image


As you can see I have trial fitted to the block and it all lines up well.

Max

#19 antelopeslr5000

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Posted 25 May 2007 - 01:06 AM

It's all looking good Max.

#20 LS1LX

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Posted 03 June 2007 - 10:34 AM

Looking the goods there

Edited by LS1LX, 03 June 2007 - 10:36 AM.


#21 hatchssv8

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Posted 17 June 2007 - 08:41 PM

Quick update...............Trial fitted the complete box again to the block. This time I fitted a crank to the block to establish input shaft/crank compatability.

Holden spigot bush ID suits 15mm input shaft. No problem here.

The problem is that the Holden crank flange protrudes further away from the block than what it does on a Gen 3. Result is that the input shaft splines hit the crank spigot bush bore. The bore is deep enough to accept the input shaft, but not large enough for the splined section.

I toyed with my options to correct this and decided I will put a 8mm spacer between the bellhousing and the gearbox. (This has been done before by another person on another forum. Thank you so much for sharing your experience) Unfortunately he found out the hard way.

Will post up pics when I can showing the spacer and how it fits up.

Cheers, Max

#22 _tj81_

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Posted 18 June 2007 - 07:21 PM

Well, i have to say i was wrong, i could have sworn it would not fit without some major mods to the trans tunnel.

Hats off.....good work.

Another question that ive also been pondering. What have you decided to do with the speedo sensor?

My original thoughts were to use an electronic conversion box from Castle Auto, round the $400 mark from memory. The other option was a modified extension housing fom Mal Wood, who tell me they can supply a modified extension housing with the forward most shifter position, and be able to use the standard Torana speedo, which to me sounded far better.

Woulnt mind some info on tha trans x member mods that were required ( as in original xmember used, 6 cyl? etc )

#23 hatchssv8

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Posted 18 June 2007 - 10:31 PM

My original thoughts were to use an electronic conversion box from Castle Auto, round the $400 mark from memory. The other option was a modified extension housing fom Mal Wood, who tell me they can supply a modified extension housing with the forward most shifter position, and be able to use the standard Torana speedo, which to me sounded far better.


Since I am going injected with an 808 ECM or similar, I would much rather put the $400 (it wont cost that much) towards modifying a LX speedo. Convert it to electronic or just use an aftermarket speedo as others have done here. A lot more 'cleaner' and much less components requiring alteration.

I will look at jigging the clutch pedal to work out the require clutch master angle to the clutch pedal rod (or some kind of arrangement like that). I have not yet seen one set up in a LX which has the remote resevior in the engine bay and the clutch master in cabin. Would anyone like to share their thoughts on this one?

Cheers, max

#24 antelopeslr5000

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Posted 20 June 2007 - 06:54 AM

Hi Max,

Unfortunately I don't have any detailed photos of the clutch setup in the cabin, just a few of the reservoir in the engine bay.

Posted Image

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I'll try and get in contact with my mate who's looking after the car and see if he can take a few photos of the clutch setup.

#25 Dr Terry

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Posted 20 June 2007 - 11:33 AM

Hi Guys.

I know you've already done a lot of work on this, but it would be easier to use the correct bellhousing for the job. I think the crank protrusion will still cause some grief.

HSV used the T56 behind the 5.7 stroker V8 in VR, VS & VTI & it uses a unique bellhousing for that application. It will do this conversion perfectly, but it is not listed in the normal Holden parts listing. This bellhousing lines up with the turbo pattern as seen on the 5.0-litre Holden blocks & also allows for the passenger side starter motor. SBC & Gen 3 (& 4) all have their starters on the driver's side of the motor.

Dr Terry.




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