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Extractor, gasket leaks!


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#1 _76S.L.R_

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Posted 24 March 2007 - 08:31 PM

Guys, recently we got my Yella Terra Heads serviced and when we put them back on I noticed that"pippy"noise that you hear when you have an exhaust gasket leak?. So today I took off the extractors, removed the gaskets, spent ages cleaning away the stuck on bits of gasket so it was clean as I could get it, I applied that CRC MANISEAL to both sides of the gaskets and bolted it back together. Started it up to heat and seal them and it still has the leaks???!!!, The passenger side is worse than the drivers side for some reason?.

If anything its a little worse!, perhaps I am imagining things but it sure seems that way to me!???: a guy at work says he uses silicone to seal them! surely that will burn off( even the heatproof one) I would think?.Its not a really loud noise but you can hear the leak, I dont know what else to do( turn up the stereo perhaps :spoton: ) . if I have to have another go it looks like that MANISEAL will be hard to get back off? before the heads were taken off you could hear a very, very( slight) leak but its worse now??. The exhaust ports were not touched when the heads were serviced( that I am aware of)...................

#2 TerrA LX

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Posted 24 March 2007 - 09:08 PM

what type of gaskets you using.
try the compress metal gaskets and exhaust silicone will be ok to use if needed.
valves are seated correctly. (compression test).

#3 _76S.L.R_

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Posted 24 March 2007 - 09:36 PM

what type of gaskets you using.
try the compress metal gaskets and exhaust silicone will be ok to use if needed.
valves are seated correctly. (compression test).

Just using the usual silvery gaskets( dont know what they are made from?), arghhh looks like I going to have to try again( this will be the 3rd time! :furious: ). I'll look for some type of Exhaust silicone tomorrow, although ive never seen any that I can recall?? only that heatproof RED silicone..........

#4 TerrA LX

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Posted 24 March 2007 - 09:57 PM

^ thats the one, the red one. Best to get the copper one.
i use metal compress (silver) gaskets.

#5 _v8slrtorana_

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Posted 24 March 2007 - 10:12 PM

Not sure if you can still get the red gaskets anymore. I never liked them anyway.
Most gasket manufactures make two different exhaust gaskets, 1 for manifold and the other for extractors.
They look the same, only the extractor gasket is thicker.
Never used manifold cement, silicone has always worked for me when ive had to use it.

#6 _76S.L.R_

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Posted 24 March 2007 - 10:33 PM

When I use the Red Silicone, whats the procedure? = from memory you apply it to both sides of the gasket then finger tighten the bolts then wait an hour or so then tighten down the bolts more?. I suspect you are not to tighten the bolts too much or the silicone will break?? is this right?, if the bolts are not fully tightened though wont they come loose??? = I hope that bloody manifold sealer I put on wont be too hard to get off? :cry: it seems to dry pretty hard!, does the face on the heads need to be spotless??.............

#7 rodomo

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Posted 24 March 2007 - 10:39 PM

Does the face of the heads need to be spotless?
Short answer is yes. What type of head gasket did you use?
I had a 308 once that we put exhuast manifold gaskets on just to find out it was the original shim type head gasket leaking.

#8 TerrA LX

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Posted 24 March 2007 - 10:42 PM

spotless yes.
apply silicon finger tight then tighten after about 1hr.
i dont usually start it till next day but follow the instructions and you will be ok.
if the gaskets by them selves are leaking that much i would be looking for the problem, not just using a bandaid fix.

#9 _lurkin308_

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Posted 24 March 2007 - 11:12 PM

i dont run gaskets on my extractors just this thick gasket goo stuff mechanic gove it to me never leaked

cheers caine

#10 orangeLJ

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Posted 25 March 2007 - 12:10 AM

you can get thicker gaskets that might solve the problem, also make sure you tighten the bolts/studs from the centra outwards. The red sillicone can be used, apply to both sides of the gasket and place on, then tighten the bolts/studs, this makes sure the silicone in prssed into any cracks and makes a tight seal. its hopw we always do them and never had problems. also make sure that (if its a six) that you have the correct sized spacers to fit both the inlet and extractors (difference in height) ive tried to make sense but im fkd ay. family BBQs always get me. cheers ay. :rockon:

#11 _1QUICK LJ_

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Posted 25 March 2007 - 01:11 AM

silicone is the only way to go. :spoton:

#12 _wombat_

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Posted 25 March 2007 - 11:54 AM

we use silicone(blue stuff) on the drag car and that seems to work,
not that you could hear an exhaust leak with a open system like that.

#13 LXCHEV

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Posted 25 March 2007 - 10:26 PM

Interesting comments regarding the red (high temp) silicone and the CRC cement paste stuff.....

Everyone seems to use the red silicone (myself included)... yet anytime I've removed my extractors or whatever, I've noticed there is no silicone left... it definitely seems to burn away. Even though it's rated for high temps... I don't think silicone can withstand the heat at the exhaust ports... I've heard that cement stuff is heaps better for use there.... I've bought some to try myself, but haven't got around to using it as yet....

Anyone else used the cement stuff before? Thoughts?

76SLR - If you do strip yours down again, let us know if the cement stuff is hard to break apart or not..... and keep us posted on how you go....

#14 LXCHEV

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Posted 25 March 2007 - 10:27 PM

While we're on the topic - what type of sealer do people use on slip joints and flange joints for multi-piece extractors???

#15 _Yella SLuR_

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Posted 25 March 2007 - 10:31 PM

OMG!!!! Love the responses, gunk it up....NOT.

I used to have this problem. Mentioned it to the mechanic and he nearly doubled over laughing. The secret is put the gasket in, do it up tight. Take it for a drive, then pop the bonnet and retighten the extractor bolts while hot.

Simple when ya know how.

EDIT: Brett, in the muffler shops they use muffler putty between the pipes, but they also use oxy to heat up the pipes red hot before clamping them back together.

Edited by Yella SLuR, 25 March 2007 - 10:33 PM.


#16 _Yella SLuR_

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Posted 25 March 2007 - 10:44 PM

^ Think it is muffler putty, happy to be corrected on that. Love watching the exhaust dudes do their work, make it look all so simple.

#17 orangeLJ

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Posted 25 March 2007 - 11:48 PM

most systems for cars these days (excpet custom work) come as pre-made sections that require joining and clamping. one thing slides over the other, a bu\it of muffler putty round the joins and a muffler clamp tightened up over the top. Must admit i havent seen my old man or myself, do the multi piece extractor job, most of ours we make are one piece jobs. yes yella, tightening them up again after a run is one way of mkaing sure they arent goin to leak (i was a bit pissed when i wrote my last comment) and the red silicone is only there as a bit of a garuntee that it definitely wont leak. Also using the proper thickness gasket, and tightening them in correct sequence as to avoid crimping the gsaket all help. and im not sure what brand of silicone some of you use, but i have had extractors on and off so many cars over the years, and there is always some residue of the silicone. not the whole lot, but some. I think it may shrink up with excessive heat. The one problem with using exhaust cement is that it is HARD, so any movement wil force it to crack and it becomes seriously brittle over time.

One word of advice, if you have a hole in your muffler/exhaust, dont try to "putty" it up, or wrap it in exhaust tape, it only makes our job harder. get it fixed properly the first time.

And yella, i know what you mean, the first couple times i went to work with my step dad i was like OMG how does he just know what to put on what car, and what wil be best to get thte right note from it and so on. but as time goes by i am gaining some much needed knowledge and now run the shop 2 days a week. :spoton:

#18 _76S.L.R_

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Posted 26 March 2007 - 08:10 PM

Well today I picked up the Extractor Gaskets and put that heatproof Silicone( RED) on the gaskets and tightened them up finger tight, I will tighten them up properly tomorrow.

Do I tighten the bolts up ( hard) or will that break the silicone???? from what some of you guys say it sounds like the silicone does indeed just burn away!!!? thats what I thought and thats what the Auto shop guys said too.

Yella says to take it for a run and then re- tighten them when she's hot, so thats what I will do( makes sense). LXCHEV: mate I really,really do not recomend you or anyone else ever use that" C.R.C MANISEAL" worse shit ever invented! :furious: . I had to scrape it off with a scalpel knife then sand it with 120 grit sandpaper to get it all off( it took hours) mainly because of no space to get my hands in there!.

When I took those gaskets off you could see with that MANISEAL that there was no seal there whatsoever! the head side of the gaskets were( ALL) black I for one will never use it again!............

#19 TerrA LX

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Posted 26 March 2007 - 08:18 PM

Tighten hard (to factory specs) as the silicone is designed to go off and form a gasket and should not force out once set.

#20 _Yella SLuR_

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Posted 26 March 2007 - 08:53 PM

With the tightening when hot method you do not use any silicon or any other gunk. Current gaskets have been done that way, and been going strong for 2 years now, including the odd bit of track work.

Edited by Yella SLuR, 26 March 2007 - 08:53 PM.


#21 LXCHEV

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Posted 26 March 2007 - 11:59 PM

Thanks for the feedback on the cement stuff... think I might steer clear of it now too.... from time to time I remove my pipes, so what you just went through doesn't sound like fun!!!




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