can u rev it in neutral then drop it into gear or is this damaging?
i dont know if i should get a normal pattern or reverse shift pattern?
i spose you dont need a shift programming kit anymore?
they go for $340 at VPW and im considering getting one.
Full Manual Valve Body
Started by
_Torana482HP_
, Jan 14 2006 09:24 AM
34 replies to this topic
#1
_Torana482HP_
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Posted 14 January 2006 - 09:24 AM
Im thinking about getting a manual valve body for my turbo 350 and i have a couple of questions if anyone can shed some light on the subject.
can u rev it in neutral then drop it into gear or is this damaging?
i dont know if i should get a normal pattern or reverse shift pattern?
i spose you dont need a shift programming kit anymore?
they go for $340 at VPW and im considering getting one.
can u rev it in neutral then drop it into gear or is this damaging?
i dont know if i should get a normal pattern or reverse shift pattern?
i spose you dont need a shift programming kit anymore?
they go for $340 at VPW and im considering getting one.
#2
_dave720gtr_
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Posted 14 January 2006 - 11:15 AM
HAY IT,S NOT A TRANS BRAKE YOU WILL DAMAGE IT REVING IN NEUTRAL And pulling it in to gear.. all the full manual valve kit will do
is make it take off in any gear,, ie if you left it in drive and punch it of the lights it will burn the box out and just slip .if you have a big stall
its even worst you have to drive it like a manual all the time good
for drag racing a bit much for the street?
is make it take off in any gear,, ie if you left it in drive and punch it of the lights it will burn the box out and just slip .if you have a big stall
its even worst you have to drive it like a manual all the time good
for drag racing a bit much for the street?
#3
_Torana482HP_
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Posted 14 January 2006 - 11:25 AM
thanks dave,
although if you have high HP and a high stall, could you do burnouts from top gear ?(the manual valve body gives it really hard shifts and the highest line pressure to hold the clutch plates so i dont know if it would slip that much)
although if you have high HP and a high stall, could you do burnouts from top gear ?(the manual valve body gives it really hard shifts and the highest line pressure to hold the clutch plates so i dont know if it would slip that much)
#4
_lj chev_
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Posted 14 January 2006 - 12:50 PM
can i ask why you would want to start a burnout in top gear? the line pressure in the trans and shift quallitys depends on who's building the valve body and what components are used inside. also how old is the trans? because clearances in the clutch packs would also effect shift quality. you could get a "shift kit" valve body thats not full manual that will shift firm like you are talking about with a full manual trans.
#5
FastEHHolden
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Posted 14 January 2006 - 12:53 PM
I don't think he wanted to start in top gear.
it is seriously hard on unis....can you get a test drive in a full manual car first?
it is seriously hard on unis....can you get a test drive in a full manual car first?
#6
FastEHHolden
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Posted 14 January 2006 - 01:14 PM
opening my eyes this time 
it would be so hard on the box..the clutches would die very quickly
it would be so hard on the box..the clutches would die very quickly
#7
_Torana482HP_
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Posted 14 January 2006 - 02:33 PM
lol, yeah it dosent sound like a good idea.
ive been planing what i should do with my trans setup,
ive got a t 350 that was rebuilt 1 year ago and it has a stage 1 shift kit in it. im going to put it in my torry when i get my 308 going.
now ive got a b&m stage 2 shift kit to put in it but i have been looking at other options and wondering if a manual valve body would be the way to go. there also a trans pack that i can get which is the same as my shift kit but it also has bits in it so you can down shift into any gear at any speed so i might just get that.
the reason i was looking into manual valve bodys is i was wondering if you could rev in neutral then change into gear (and dave said it causes disasters) because a trans brake costs like $1000 - stuff that.
anyways thanks for all your help.
ive been planing what i should do with my trans setup,
ive got a t 350 that was rebuilt 1 year ago and it has a stage 1 shift kit in it. im going to put it in my torry when i get my 308 going.
now ive got a b&m stage 2 shift kit to put in it but i have been looking at other options and wondering if a manual valve body would be the way to go. there also a trans pack that i can get which is the same as my shift kit but it also has bits in it so you can down shift into any gear at any speed so i might just get that.
the reason i was looking into manual valve bodys is i was wondering if you could rev in neutral then change into gear (and dave said it causes disasters) because a trans brake costs like $1000 - stuff that.
anyways thanks for all your help.
#8
LS1LX
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Posted 14 January 2006 - 05:51 PM
If you had a full manual valve setup and reved it in Nuetral, you would drop it into 3rd gear? Unless you could rev nuetral and in a split second manage to get 1st gear?
dont think so.
Stick with an automatic shifting box unless your engine has some work, a good stall or your big cammed engine doesnt produce much vacuum.
dont think so.
Stick with an automatic shifting box unless your engine has some work, a good stall or your big cammed engine doesnt produce much vacuum.
#9
Stedz_lc
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Posted 14 January 2006 - 06:27 PM
Hey
Ive got a shift kit in mine n its changes pretty harsh! Chirps second with a bit of a stab on the gas!! its a very firm shift! Im pretty sure i can pull mine down at any time n it will go down!! Thou im not realy willin to pull mine down to first at 100!! Ive pulled it down to 2nd at around 100-120 n it did as it was told!! I really like the shift kit really makes the shifts firm! Mine also had different clutch packs and a few other things changed! Ill dig the recpiet up n list everything if ud like, just rember a good trans cooler too!
Cheers
Stedz
my 2c worth
Ive got a shift kit in mine n its changes pretty harsh! Chirps second with a bit of a stab on the gas!! its a very firm shift! Im pretty sure i can pull mine down at any time n it will go down!! Thou im not realy willin to pull mine down to first at 100!! Ive pulled it down to 2nd at around 100-120 n it did as it was told!! I really like the shift kit really makes the shifts firm! Mine also had different clutch packs and a few other things changed! Ill dig the recpiet up n list everything if ud like, just rember a good trans cooler too!
Cheers
Stedz
my 2c worth
#10
_82911_
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Posted 14 January 2006 - 07:42 PM
What you need is a clutch turbo 400...or clutchflite!
Remove the converter and spline input shaft to take clutch plates.. add a pressure plate and flywheel to the front.
Now you can pull the auto into gear (full manual valve body suggested) and hold in the clutch, give it a big rev and dump!
Steer away from a transbrake unless it is for strip only... They lock 1st and reverse gear together to stall the trans, when the button is released reverse is disengaged and off you go. They are very hard on everything from the flex plate rearwards..
Cheers Greg..
Remove the converter and spline input shaft to take clutch plates.. add a pressure plate and flywheel to the front.
Now you can pull the auto into gear (full manual valve body suggested) and hold in the clutch, give it a big rev and dump!
Steer away from a transbrake unless it is for strip only... They lock 1st and reverse gear together to stall the trans, when the button is released reverse is disengaged and off you go. They are very hard on everything from the flex plate rearwards..
Cheers Greg..
#11
_Torana482HP_
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Posted 14 January 2006 - 08:07 PM
That sounds pretty cool greg, ive never heard of that clutch setup before, yeah i didnt really want a transbrake + they cost heaps.
Thanks for that info stedz, yeah ill have a good cooler, and that would be good if you could list the stuff u got,hey what rpm were you at when you downshifted to 2nd? I think that a turbo 350 wont shift into first over about 50 km
LS1LX, you can buy manual valve bodys that are reverse shifting - which means the shift line up goes P R N 1 2 3 - so you could go from neutral strait into first.
and yeah my engine wont produce much vaccum at idle but im buying a b&m modulink which replaces the vaccum modulator with a cable operated one that connects to the carby throttle position.
I wonder how my brakes are gonna go with low vaccum?
Thanks for that info stedz, yeah ill have a good cooler, and that would be good if you could list the stuff u got,hey what rpm were you at when you downshifted to 2nd? I think that a turbo 350 wont shift into first over about 50 km
LS1LX, you can buy manual valve bodys that are reverse shifting - which means the shift line up goes P R N 1 2 3 - so you could go from neutral strait into first.
and yeah my engine wont produce much vaccum at idle but im buying a b&m modulink which replaces the vaccum modulator with a cable operated one that connects to the carby throttle position.
I wonder how my brakes are gonna go with low vaccum?
#12
Stedz_lc
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Posted 14 January 2006 - 08:57 PM
I think its around the 3000 ish mark at a hundred, check tommorow ill try find the paper work, mine loose's vac at idle but i realy need a stally, maybe u shoudl get one and or a vacum tank? mines a t350 n i love it, get yours built by a pro tell him what ur goin to do with it n im sure theyll set it up tops for u 
find out from others on here who your local guru is maybe? Worth the call anyway
Cheers
Stedz
find out from others on here who your local guru is maybe? Worth the call anywayCheers
Stedz
#13
_Torana482HP_
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Posted 15 January 2006 - 03:40 AM
Yeah i was gonna get a stally, just seeing what other options i have with me trans setup,
Greg do you have any more info on that clutch setup? is it an aftermarket part or a home job?
Cheers ppl.
Greg do you have any more info on that clutch setup? is it an aftermarket part or a home job?
Cheers ppl.
#14
_LX406_
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Posted 15 January 2006 - 08:09 PM
I have a TH400 in my car with normal auto shift. I reckon full manual on the street in unecessary. I enjoy leaving my shifter in top and the auto changes as it pleases when I stop and start.
When I do burnouts at the strip I just leave it in top (3rd) and it shifts 1st, 2nd, 3rd by itself without any over revs. And when I launch I drive it manually as it shifts at a too low rpm.
Just get a shift kit installed, you will appreciate driving your car heaps more. Full manual is a pain on the street.
When I do burnouts at the strip I just leave it in top (3rd) and it shifts 1st, 2nd, 3rd by itself without any over revs. And when I launch I drive it manually as it shifts at a too low rpm.
Just get a shift kit installed, you will appreciate driving your car heaps more. Full manual is a pain on the street.
Edited by LX406, 15 January 2006 - 08:10 PM.
#15
_Torana482HP_
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Posted 15 January 2006 - 08:55 PM
sounds good lx406,
i reckon ill get a 3500 stally and a transpak and a b&m shifter and leave it at that.
thanks for the advice everyone.
i reckon ill get a 3500 stally and a transpak and a b&m shifter and leave it at that.
thanks for the advice everyone.
#16
ToRunYa
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Posted 16 January 2006 - 12:43 PM
i had one in a commy, twas a pain in the arse driving around, good on the strip though. i wouldnt recommend it for everyday driving. 
#17
_Torana482HP_
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Posted 16 January 2006 - 04:04 PM
Advice taken, thanks torunya.
#18
LhMusL
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Posted 16 January 2006 - 04:16 PM
I have a manual shift trimatic with 5500 stall, and because it is the only set up i have driven the car with it just seems normal to me!!
Coz i had mainly man trans before this i like the feeling of being in control.
My car isn't a daily but gets taken out about 3 times a week and i love it every time!!!
I does shift f#$ing hard though, but i thats how i like it.
Oh one other thing, it is one more security feature for me, coz IF someonje does get pasted everything else on the car and atempts to drive off in D (eg 3rd) it'l just make a heap of noise and not go anywhere, giving me just enough time to run out the my bat and beat the living S#%T out of em!!!!
Coz i had mainly man trans before this i like the feeling of being in control.
My car isn't a daily but gets taken out about 3 times a week and i love it every time!!!
I does shift f#$ing hard though, but i thats how i like it.
Oh one other thing, it is one more security feature for me, coz IF someonje does get pasted everything else on the car and atempts to drive off in D (eg 3rd) it'l just make a heap of noise and not go anywhere, giving me just enough time to run out the my bat and beat the living S#%T out of em!!!!
#19
_Torana482HP_
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Posted 16 January 2006 - 05:21 PM
have you heard of that clutch setup that greg was talking about?
#20
_CHOPPER_
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Posted 16 January 2006 - 07:54 PM
My question is, how many tenths would you save by having a full manual valve body versus a stage 2 or 3 kitted box?
#21
_Torana482HP_
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Posted 16 January 2006 - 08:02 PM
yeah thats why i was thinking a good transpak and that should do it.
transpak has parts in it for full race shifting characteristics (cricket bat in the back) and springs and things so you can downshift at any speed into any gear (whow, careful now). and also hold any gear as long as you want.
i want greg to tell me more about those clutches he was talking about, just curious cause ive never heard of em.
transpak has parts in it for full race shifting characteristics (cricket bat in the back) and springs and things so you can downshift at any speed into any gear (whow, careful now). and also hold any gear as long as you want.
i want greg to tell me more about those clutches he was talking about, just curious cause ive never heard of em.
#22
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Posted 16 January 2006 - 08:05 PM
I heard about those setups back in the 80's. They're nothing new, just not as common these days. Never took much interest in autos back then, so I didn't take much notice of them.
#23
_Torana482HP_
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Posted 16 January 2006 - 08:12 PM
ahh well, i think ill just stick with a stally anyway. 
#24
_MAWLER_
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Posted 20 January 2006 - 05:50 PM
Hey, same as LHMusl, I have a manual trimatic and is the only "auto" i have ever had. I don't notice much annoyance, its just like shifting a manual car which I came from and so it doesn't seem that out of place cos I've never known anything else. In regards to the shifts, going up is the best thing ever invented, you get to shift the stick hard and it just changes instantly and so strongly, chirps every time under load. As for going down gears, that is a totally different matter, don't know whether it was built like this on purpose or is a characteristic of manual valvebody but you can't downshift very well, I can't drop it into 2nd above about 40k's and 1500RPM and into 1st is virtually stopped or pretty damn close, again with low revs. If it is dropped in to high I'm greeted by a big clunk and lock up of the rears momentarily.
Another downside is that if you do drop it off somewhere to get some work done you have to explain to everyone what it is and how to work it and all that stuff. I'm always worried that someone will put it in D (3rd) and try to drive off, the stally will take up the load obviously but then the person would push their foot down because it wasn't responding and before you know it its at 4grand and into a brick wall,
But yeah, while I drive mine all the time and is fine, its certainly not designed as a daily driver and you have to take things more slowly and carefully.
Peace,
Another downside is that if you do drop it off somewhere to get some work done you have to explain to everyone what it is and how to work it and all that stuff. I'm always worried that someone will put it in D (3rd) and try to drive off, the stally will take up the load obviously but then the person would push their foot down because it wasn't responding and before you know it its at 4grand and into a brick wall,
But yeah, while I drive mine all the time and is fine, its certainly not designed as a daily driver and you have to take things more slowly and carefully.
Peace,
#25
Tiny
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Posted 20 January 2006 - 06:57 PM
LOL yeah that's always a worry... I remeber being asked by a valet if my torana had any tricks... "Nup shes original and stock" was my reply!Another downside is that if you do drop it off somewhere to get some work done you have to explain to everyone what it is and how to work it and all that stuff. *Snipped*
15 minutes later i came out to find out they couldnt get the handbrake to come off.. HAHAHAH
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