Hi all,
What a really slick site this is for all the Torana drivers out there.
I have a LJ 4 door 138 with 3speed on the tree and the rear suspension needs serious updating. Had the vehicle in the same family since new in 1972, and in all that time, nothing has been done to the suspension.
What would be the best to handle it , as it has been suggested to use Air shock absorbers to raise the height ?
I would rather bring it back to as near as factory specifications or update it with a more reliable suspension. Would it be better to upgrade the front as well as the rear suspension at the same time ?
Is there any difference between an LJ GTR suspension and my vehicle ?
Any ideas please !!
Kind regards
George
LJ 4 door
Started by
_lonemonaro_
, Nov 14 2005 02:27 AM
15 replies to this topic
#2
_73LJWhiteSL_
_73LJWhiteSL_
-
- Guests
Posted 14 November 2005 - 11:57 AM
I think the GTR Toranas sat 1" lower than all other Toranas. They were also fitted with a front sway bar. I think the spring rates may have been a little different to.
I would be looking at King Springs and Bilsten or Koni shocks, depending on what money you want to spend.
What are you planning on using the car for? Daily Driver? Occasional Race car? Show car? etc.
What you want to do with it will determine the best route.
If its just a daily Munro shocks should be fine.
Steve
I would be looking at King Springs and Bilsten or Koni shocks, depending on what money you want to spend.
What are you planning on using the car for? Daily Driver? Occasional Race car? Show car? etc.
What you want to do with it will determine the best route.
If its just a daily Munro shocks should be fine.
Steve
Edited by 73LJWhiteSL, 14 November 2005 - 11:58 AM.
#3
_lonemonaro_
_lonemonaro_
-
- Guests
Posted 14 November 2005 - 11:41 PM
Hi Steve,
Thank you for your sound advice, as Munro shockies might be quickest and cheapest option.
Kind regards
George
Thank you for your sound advice, as Munro shockies might be quickest and cheapest option.
Kind regards
George
#4
_73LJWhiteSL_
_73LJWhiteSL_
-
- Guests
Posted 15 November 2005 - 06:57 PM
Not a problem mate.
I'm running King Springs 1" lower all round with Koni Adjustable Shock and a whiteline front sway bar. But i plan to use my car for some entry level motorsport stuff. Such as Winton fun day.
For a daily, King Springs with Munro would be good. Others to consider is Gabriel i think they are called (shocks).
Steve
I'm running King Springs 1" lower all round with Koni Adjustable Shock and a whiteline front sway bar. But i plan to use my car for some entry level motorsport stuff. Such as Winton fun day.
For a daily, King Springs with Munro would be good. Others to consider is Gabriel i think they are called (shocks).
Steve
#5
_smcbr6_
_smcbr6_
-
- Guests
Posted 12 December 2005 - 08:05 PM
Steve,
Does the front sway bar make a big difference? Mine has a rear sway bar but I've heard having a rear and no front make the handling worse??
Cheers,
Shane
'71 LC
http://manny.homelin...ent/torana.html
Does the front sway bar make a big difference? Mine has a rear sway bar but I've heard having a rear and no front make the handling worse??
Cheers,
Shane
'71 LC
http://manny.homelin...ent/torana.html
#6
_73LJWhiteSL_
_73LJWhiteSL_
-
- Guests
Posted 13 December 2005 - 04:55 PM
I think the Torana corners a lot flatter and there is noticably less bodyroll with the front sway bar.
I posted a q a while back about the rear sway bar. To cut a long story short, Because of the geometry of the rear suspension, putting a sway bar on will actualy cause the inside rear wheel to have less traction or even come of the ground, because the sway bar causes the rear suspension to bind, so the weight is transfer diagonly opposite to the front outside tyre.
I probably have it wrong, but i am sure Greg or someonme will correct me
Steve
I posted a q a while back about the rear sway bar. To cut a long story short, Because of the geometry of the rear suspension, putting a sway bar on will actualy cause the inside rear wheel to have less traction or even come of the ground, because the sway bar causes the rear suspension to bind, so the weight is transfer diagonly opposite to the front outside tyre.
I probably have it wrong, but i am sure Greg or someonme will correct me
Steve
#7
_draglc_
_draglc_
-
- Guests
Posted 13 December 2005 - 09:20 PM
sounds about right..
i know a rear swaybar didnt do much for me around qld raceway. took it off, put a front one on and starting almost lifting front wheels instead of rear ones
A1
i know a rear swaybar didnt do much for me around qld raceway. took it off, put a front one on and starting almost lifting front wheels instead of rear ones
A1
#8
_@milco@_
_@milco@_
-
- Guests
Posted 13 December 2005 - 09:33 PM
dont know what scarier lifting the front or the rears!sounds about right..
i know a rear swaybar didnt do much for me around qld raceway. took it off, put a front one on and starting almost lifting front wheels instead of rear ones
A1
#10
Racehatch
-
- Members
-
- 1,027 posts
Forum Fixture
- Location:Adelaide
- Joined: 07-November 05
Posted 15 December 2005 - 10:52 AM
I'd have to agree with whats been said here, I generally find Torrie's like a good front bar and no rear one... I dont even have one (rear swaybar) on my track car!
#11
Toranamat69
-
- Members
-
- 2,117 posts
Forum R&D Officer
- Location:Brisbane
- Joined: 07-November 05
Posted 16 December 2005 - 04:47 PM
Lone,
The XU1's had the front upper control arm mounting pivot holes drilled 1" lower than the standard LC/LJ's. The positions should already be punched , just need a redrill to that spot.
Might as well do that if going a full rebuild up front.
M@
The XU1's had the front upper control arm mounting pivot holes drilled 1" lower than the standard LC/LJ's. The positions should already be punched , just need a redrill to that spot.
Might as well do that if going a full rebuild up front.
M@
#12
_wildsix_
_wildsix_
-
- Guests
Posted 07 January 2006 - 03:07 PM
anybody got any pics of the position the holes so as to lower the upper control arm.
I had a look on my lc 4dr and cant see any signs of punch marks an inch lower.
I had a look on my lc 4dr and cant see any signs of punch marks an inch lower.
#13
_wildsix_
_wildsix_
-
- Guests
Posted 11 January 2006 - 12:50 PM
some-one?
Looking at the position of the original holes, clearance and strength i would think you could put the new holes up to an inch HIGHER not lower on the chasis.
correct me if i'm wrong.
if any of you two door people could measure from the top of the chasis rail to where the centre of the upper control arm attaches would be a great help and clear up this issue real quick.
Looking at the position of the original holes, clearance and strength i would think you could put the new holes up to an inch HIGHER not lower on the chasis.
correct me if i'm wrong.
if any of you two door people could measure from the top of the chasis rail to where the centre of the upper control arm attaches would be a great help and clear up this issue real quick.
#14
Toranamat69
-
- Members
-
- 2,117 posts
Forum R&D Officer
- Location:Brisbane
- Joined: 07-November 05
Posted 11 January 2006 - 04:30 PM
Wildsix,
You may have an XU1 front end already. If the holes can't go any lower - they are in the right spot. Don't mount them higher .
M@
You may have an XU1 front end already. If the holes can't go any lower - they are in the right spot. Don't mount them higher .
M@
#15
_wildsix_
_wildsix_
-
- Guests
Posted 12 January 2006 - 06:13 PM
Good point.... someone got a pic so I can confirm it.
#16
_Oldn64_
_Oldn64_
-
- Guests
Posted 17 January 2006 - 11:59 PM
People will tell you differen things about suspension and setup. While in general for track work no sway on rear and rear soft will give you great turning character, but put the same car on dirt or bitumen rally and a stiff rear with stuff suspension is the way to go. then chuck it on a drag track and find that a rear bar with soft springs is the way to go. It all comes down to what you intend to drive the car for.
Personally I would do a mixture. Frotn bar hard springs with no rear bar and medium springs. this will give you teh best of both worlds. not onyl great in a straight line but also reasonable going around a corner. You will find if you hit dirt though (race/hillclimb situation) that it will become very difficult to get speed out of the car.
Think very carefully about the setup as get it right and the car will drive great. get it wrong and you will fight the car to drive it.. Talk to people in the industry. once you have spoken to most of them combine the results and you will find a good choice arise.
Cheers
PS: Bilsteins run terrific shocks and kings or whiteline are also great with them.
Personally I would do a mixture. Frotn bar hard springs with no rear bar and medium springs. this will give you teh best of both worlds. not onyl great in a straight line but also reasonable going around a corner. You will find if you hit dirt though (race/hillclimb situation) that it will become very difficult to get speed out of the car.
Think very carefully about the setup as get it right and the car will drive great. get it wrong and you will fight the car to drive it..
Talk to people in the industry. once you have spoken to most of them combine the results and you will find a good choice arise.Cheers
PS: Bilsteins run terrific shocks and kings or whiteline are also great with them.
0 user(s) are reading this topic
0 members, 0 guests, 0 anonymous users
