hey people
I have decided that my cooling system need to be flushed and cleaned out. at the moment it runs at almost 220F on a 30+ day, it has dirty rusty water, and also the hoses are deteriorating. i havent done it before, i have had the car 2 years, and i dont think the previous owner ever did it either.
Can anyone run me through on how to do it, i have a rough idea, but dont want to screw it up. anything i should kno? it wont stuff my seals, being such a long time since flushing? should i refill with coolant or stick with straight water?
cheers. oh yea it's a 3 core radiator.
cheers.
Flushing cooling system
Started by
_hrt1and2_
, Jan 14 2006 10:08 PM
16 replies to this topic
#2
REDA9X
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Posted 14 January 2006 - 10:24 PM
Take the radiator out, turn it uupside down and flush it out from the bottom fitting as any crap on top comes out. Remove the thermostat and flush the water through the block from the top hose, and back through the bottom one. Remove the heater hoses and flush them both ways too. Make sure you keep doing it till the water comes out clear and clean. I'd personally get the radiator professionally cleaned if the cores look full of metal flakes. If not, fill it with water, run it for a while, and reflush it, then drain it and fill with fresh water and coolant.
#3
_hrt1and2_
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Posted 14 January 2006 - 10:47 PM
ah k.... my next question
How much does it cost to get it done?
How much does it cost to get it done?
#4
REDA9X
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Posted 14 January 2006 - 11:41 PM
Never had to do it, or do you mean getting the radiator cleaned? I think that was about $100. It's easy to flush the system, I'd do it myself if I was you.
#5
J-Rod
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Posted 14 January 2006 - 11:53 PM
after refilling one i usually run it with the radiator cap off untill the thermostat opens. This is to make sure there is no air in the system. You may see the level fluctuate while this happens. If it does... Top it up.
#6
rodomo
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Posted 15 January 2006 - 01:10 AM
Cheap alternative: Drain your water when engine is cold, take off your top radiator hose and heater hose at water pump. Flush all orrifices backward and forward with the garden hose until only clear water runs. Refit hoses and top up with water and radiator cleaner from repco or bursons. Run car for a couple of days to and from work. While you have your hoses off check the insides for cracks as hoses wear from the inside out. Replace if nessesary and remember that if one needs replacing, chances are that all do if they are as old as each other. Repeat as above (drain and flush cold) Refill with water and add coolant. For best result remove thermostat for couple of days (as this increases and maintains maximum flow)while running and replace with new one.
Cost around $30
RACV MAN
Cost around $30
RACV MAN
#7
_Keithy's_UC_
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Posted 15 January 2006 - 09:12 AM
Hey man,
I would do it yourself - its not hard! Just do as mentioned above (flip radiator upside down and reverse flush). If you can, go to your radiator specialists before you do this and buy a 'radiator sock'. This catches the crap that floats around in your cooling system and stops it clogging up your radiator, removing the need to have to clean it! All you do is fit the sock on your top radiator fitting (where the top hose connects) and put your top hose back on! Sometimes you get seepage from where the radiator hose has gone over the sock - dont worry too much about that, just give your engine bay a quick wash every now and then!
Run a hose through your top & bottom radiator hoses to flush buildup, and make sure that its fully clean water coming out in the end! Fill your radiator up with coolant and water when its all back together. Run car for 10mins without radiator cap and top up with tap water to the bottom of the filler neck while the car is running, replace your cap and shut the old girl down!! From then on, if you have to top your radiator up at all, use coolant.
You should remove the radiator sock every month to clean it (you will get bits of metal and gunk from your water pump!!! These radiator socks only cost about $8.
Keith
I would do it yourself - its not hard! Just do as mentioned above (flip radiator upside down and reverse flush). If you can, go to your radiator specialists before you do this and buy a 'radiator sock'. This catches the crap that floats around in your cooling system and stops it clogging up your radiator, removing the need to have to clean it! All you do is fit the sock on your top radiator fitting (where the top hose connects) and put your top hose back on! Sometimes you get seepage from where the radiator hose has gone over the sock - dont worry too much about that, just give your engine bay a quick wash every now and then!
Run a hose through your top & bottom radiator hoses to flush buildup, and make sure that its fully clean water coming out in the end! Fill your radiator up with coolant and water when its all back together. Run car for 10mins without radiator cap and top up with tap water to the bottom of the filler neck while the car is running, replace your cap and shut the old girl down!! From then on, if you have to top your radiator up at all, use coolant.
You should remove the radiator sock every month to clean it (you will get bits of metal and gunk from your water pump!!! These radiator socks only cost about $8.
Keith
#8
_hrt1and2_
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Posted 15 January 2006 - 09:36 AM
Awsome, sounds easy ill do it this week.
What coolant is the best, i mean my bro uses cheap shit like $8 for 10L or something for his datsun, but i don't want that crap.
Also is there a specific amount of water and coolant i should put in (50/50, 40/60, 30/70)??
also whats the price for hoses, my car is a 186 with v8 radiator?? is there a difference between a 6cyl radiator's and the v8's radiator hoses?
cheers, thanks for ya help.
What coolant is the best, i mean my bro uses cheap shit like $8 for 10L or something for his datsun, but i don't want that crap.
Also is there a specific amount of water and coolant i should put in (50/50, 40/60, 30/70)??
also whats the price for hoses, my car is a 186 with v8 radiator?? is there a difference between a 6cyl radiator's and the v8's radiator hoses?
cheers, thanks for ya help.
#9
_Herne_
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Posted 15 January 2006 - 09:46 AM
You need to pop into Supercheap! rare Spares or similar, all your questions re pricing will be accurately answered there.
Cheers
Herne
Cheers
Herne
Edited by Herne, 15 January 2006 - 09:47 AM.
#10
REDA9X
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Posted 15 January 2006 - 10:20 AM
I use Nulon , but not the coolant, I use inhibitor to stop corosion. I figure since the car is driven bugger all it's more importand to stop it corroding
#11
_hrt1and2_
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Posted 17 January 2006 - 02:48 PM
Can some one tell me if the radiator hose's for the 202 is the same as the 186? the guy in supercheap had great difficulties.
cheeers
cheeers
#12
_Oldn64_
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Posted 18 January 2006 - 01:20 AM
Yes rad hoses are the same across the red six range.
One thing people seem not to have spoken about it the neutralisation of water charge etc or removal of old coolant. while using a garden hose etc will make the water run clear etc, it will still contain chemically traces of old coolant. IT IS NOT WISE TO MIX COOLANTS. so it is required that it become nuetralised. The easiest way to achieve this is, when teh car is cold drain the water out and fill with cheap vinegar (usually approx 6 L or more) start car as per normal and get to operating temp. run this for 10 minutes at idle once operational temp is reached and then switch off and allow to cool.
Drain and stand for 45minute to air. through pure water in and run for 10 minutes. cool and drain. Once this is achieved you may then fill with coolant/inhibator first then top up with denatured water. this will stop any further corrosion and remove the threat of the coolant eating you radiator from perivous past.
Cheers
PS: I use techalloy GOLD. The warranty states it all. plus the CSIRO did a case study on it (hence the vinegar use)
One thing people seem not to have spoken about it the neutralisation of water charge etc or removal of old coolant. while using a garden hose etc will make the water run clear etc, it will still contain chemically traces of old coolant. IT IS NOT WISE TO MIX COOLANTS. so it is required that it become nuetralised. The easiest way to achieve this is, when teh car is cold drain the water out and fill with cheap vinegar (usually approx 6 L or more) start car as per normal and get to operating temp. run this for 10 minutes at idle once operational temp is reached and then switch off and allow to cool.
Drain and stand for 45minute to air. through pure water in and run for 10 minutes. cool and drain. Once this is achieved you may then fill with coolant/inhibator first then top up with denatured water. this will stop any further corrosion and remove the threat of the coolant eating you radiator from perivous past.
Cheers
PS: I use techalloy GOLD. The warranty states it all. plus the CSIRO did a case study on it (hence the vinegar use)
#13
_hrt1and2_
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Posted 18 January 2006 - 02:21 PM
hi.
It hasn't got coolant in at the moment just running pure water, but the vinegar will this get rid of the rusty stains that appear in the radiator?
cheers.
It hasn't got coolant in at the moment just running pure water, but the vinegar will this get rid of the rusty stains that appear in the radiator?
cheers.
#14
_LXChev366_
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Posted 18 January 2006 - 05:10 PM
One piece of advise... try and put what kind of car, engine etc that you have when asking a technical question 
...as some cars do have special procedures for performing this task (ie VN - VY Commodores etc). With your forum name I thought you had a Holden Commodore for a minute.
Like the slogan goes...oils ain't oils..well coolant is the same....as mentioned above, dont mix coolants and DONT just go by colour...I used to use 3 different types of Green coolant at my work and all 3 are different - Commodore, Rodeo and Hyundai !! (Toyota is red, Comm Gen3 is orange...etc)
One other thing...if you remove the thermostat to flush system...replace it with a new one. Also replace your radiator cap... both cheap items. If you dont already have one, use a recovery type Rad Cap and run a catch tank. Any fluid that escapes is caught by the tank and when your engine cools down (overnight) the cap opens enough to allow the coolant to return to motor (as there will be a vacuum in the system.... hot to cold etc)
Re rusty stains in Rad...only a full teardown service will cure this. Carry out a flush etc and then repeat it @ 3 months and see how you go...dont forget you are trying to reverse a process that has occurred over a long time.
...as some cars do have special procedures for performing this task (ie VN - VY Commodores etc). With your forum name I thought you had a Holden Commodore for a minute.Like the slogan goes...oils ain't oils..well coolant is the same....as mentioned above, dont mix coolants and DONT just go by colour...I used to use 3 different types of Green coolant at my work and all 3 are different - Commodore, Rodeo and Hyundai !! (Toyota is red, Comm Gen3 is orange...etc)
One other thing...if you remove the thermostat to flush system...replace it with a new one. Also replace your radiator cap... both cheap items. If you dont already have one, use a recovery type Rad Cap and run a catch tank. Any fluid that escapes is caught by the tank and when your engine cools down (overnight) the cap opens enough to allow the coolant to return to motor (as there will be a vacuum in the system.... hot to cold etc)
Re rusty stains in Rad...only a full teardown service will cure this. Carry out a flush etc and then repeat it @ 3 months and see how you go...dont forget you are trying to reverse a process that has occurred over a long time.
Edited by LXChev366, 18 January 2006 - 05:13 PM.
#15
barny_lx
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Posted 18 January 2006 - 06:29 PM
yerp Lx Chev366 's above post is pretty spot on.
I had a customers Radiator flushed and checked today , it cost $76...so yeah
Its a good idea to do what your doing, so you may as well go all out..
New hoses, rad top and bottom, heater and bypass.. $ 30
thermostat $10 - $15
recovery rad cap $15 - $20
Coolant depending on how much you buy , brand etc. $8 - $30
Radiator flush by specialst $ 75
Overflow bottle if not fitted and hose - $5 from wrecker
cheers and goodluck!
I had a customers Radiator flushed and checked today , it cost $76...so yeah
Its a good idea to do what your doing, so you may as well go all out..
New hoses, rad top and bottom, heater and bypass.. $ 30
thermostat $10 - $15
recovery rad cap $15 - $20
Coolant depending on how much you buy , brand etc. $8 - $30
Radiator flush by specialst $ 75
Overflow bottle if not fitted and hose - $5 from wrecker
cheers and goodluck!
#16
Dangerous
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Posted 19 January 2006 - 01:56 PM
Sounds like you have a 6 cylinder triple core radiator. These were available, and can also be made from an HQ V8 radiator. Because they are slightly wider, you may need to trim a little off the top radiator hose to get it to sit correctly without stressing or kinking it at the bend. Not usually a problem with LH series, but is with LC series and triple core radiators.
Sit the new top hose on top of the thermostat pipe on one end, and the top radiator neck at the other. If it overlaps either end, and would require extra bending to make it fit, carefully measure (twice!) how much to trim off it to make it fit neatly, and then check the measurement again before cutting off the excess with a sharp knife.
Radiator hoses for all 6 cylinders in LH/LXs are the same.
Sit the new top hose on top of the thermostat pipe on one end, and the top radiator neck at the other. If it overlaps either end, and would require extra bending to make it fit, carefully measure (twice!) how much to trim off it to make it fit neatly, and then check the measurement again before cutting off the excess with a sharp knife.
Radiator hoses for all 6 cylinders in LH/LXs are the same.
#17
_hrt1and2_
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Posted 19 January 2006 - 08:25 PM
yea its a v8 radiator i kno that much, the sides of the body work have been cut to make the radiator fit, it also is a LX. im planning on doing it soon, just havent got around to it.
cheers.
cheers.
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